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The right width for crawling

setecastronomy

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Jan 30, 2007
Messages
305
Location
Italy
I like crawling and after the TLT and XR10 I'm trying to go on with a Wraith.
I'm conscious its performances cannot equal those of my Xr10 but I'm quite satisfied with it and I have room for improvements.

First of all: you cannot climb without additional weight on the front axle.


In this picture the weight is not forward biased and the climbing capabilities were seriously compromised.


Then I put my Xr10 wheels with the bullet weight and performances were far better.
I'm still trying to figure out which is the best width for crawling.
According to me the narrower the better, at least till 29 cm of width from outside to outside.










I made some tests using wheels with different offset for a total width of more than 30cm and here are the results:
it is too easy to find spots which are not large enough to let you go through.

At the moment the distance between the tires (interior to interior) is a bit less than 19 cm, so the axle is completely exposed for all this length. It is difficult on rough terrain to be able to touch majour obstacoles with the tire before than with the axle.





Again here is what can happen if the rock is not large enough: you are stuck with both tires in the air.


Although my feeling of being too large I noticed I have lots of interferences in the front.
I completely forget about them once I moved to a carbon fiber chassis for my Xr10, but now they are back.





In the pictures above you can see my front tires scrubbing against the body, but I checked and it scrubs against the tube chassis too. I think it is very hard to solve this problem because I don't want to change the chassis and I really doubt I can narrow it.

Perhaps I can change shocks setup increasing the distance between chassis and axle at full compression and using lots of droop in order to avoid an excessively high center of gravity.

By the way my twist is not very good, I would like to increase it of some degrees, I still have the stock shocks, do you suggest longer ones?



I like the way I put the drag link, I like much less the steering link and above all the servo horn.
I was forced by interference problems to use a plastic horn with a nut in the front. The drag link doesn't touch in the rocks anymore but those little nut is always against them.

Anyway I had lots of fun as you can see from the following photos.



]














After a few battery packs the WB8 WILD BOAR DRIVE SHAFTS are already winded. I suppose I have to move to something tougher but I don't know what to choose...

Waiting for your advices...

Filippo
 
Nice thread. I was beaten by a narrower SCX10 (on 2.2s) once on some rocks. The SCX was able to fit through challenging sections where I couldn't fit. That forced me to take some difficult lines and it didn't work out well.

I had since upgraded to taller / wider tires (PB RB IIs) and running reverse mounted Mayhem 1.25" width wheels with 0.450 hubs (smallest they sell). The combination of taller tires and wide / lower offset wheels have given me an overall width of 29.6cm. (I was at 30.0cm stock) and reduced the inside - inside spacing. I haven't gotten much testing done with that new setup, but a rematch with that SCX is in order! lol

To help with weight distribution and COG, I did the battery up from mod. The 2.2 aluminum wheels add some decent weight down low and when I get the Beef Tubes installed, that should help even further. (I'm not a fan of wheel weights).
 
Tmax shafts are hard to beat.
I thought I would have upgraded to something metal but I have some spare Tmax shafts at home, so I will give them a try. My only concern is that they are huge, I could have interferences with suspension links and the working angle can be worse than the original shafts.


...
I had since upgraded to taller / wider tires (PB RB IIs)
....
Can somebody make a comparison between PB RB and the Rovers, which I know well ?
@ 3stage
Don't you have interferences with the body and chassis in the front ? They are very large tires... and according to the technical specification they are a hair taller than the Rover... Can you confirm ? Does the height difference translate in improved performances ?


To help with weight distribution and COG, I did the battery up from mod. The 2.2 aluminum wheels add some decent weight down low and when I get the Beef Tubes installed, that should help even further. (I'm not a fan of wheel weights).

I put the battery over the upper links where they are connected to the skid. I'm thinking to put a floating plate over the upper links and use it as a battery holder, that way I can move the battery towards the front.

Bye
Filippo
 
I have no clearance issues. I've adjusted my pinion angle so it's way better then stock.

It looks like you've made your own links but I can't see your pinion angle. The new wraith s have horrible pinion angle with the shock mounts flipped over.

I run a revo shafts on the rear. It does rub the link but isn't an issue. The tmax shafts to me look good on the wraith.
 
The tmax shafts to me look good on the wraith.

I mounted one of them in the rear and the first test was positive.
Anyway I cannot mount it in the front because there no room due to the transmission cover.
Watching your photos carefully I can see you added a coupling inside one end and I guess the reason was to put a gap with the transmission cover.

That said I think I will try the new 3 pieces wb8 wild board Ax31114 in the front while I will go on with e-max shaft in the rear.

Bye
Filippo
 
you can take that cover off, or dremel it for clearance, thats how i ran Maxx shafts on my wraith.

This hasn't been mentioned yet but going to OD front gears/UD rear, OD front/ stock, or Stock/UD will help a bunch as they all have a subtle dig effect.
 
you can take that cover off, or dremel it for clearance, thats how i ran Maxx shafts on my wraith.

This hasn't been mentioned yet but going to OD front gears/UD rear, OD front/ stock, or Stock/UD will help a bunch as they all have a subtle dig effect.

I read the big Blue thread of Nova's and he says the OD gears have terrible mesh and it is better to go with the UD, which have a greater reduction ratio and a better mesh. Unfortunately at that time I had already bought the OD gears.
So, following Nova's advice, the right way for having a 'subtle dig effect' is to UD the rear axle and not OD the front one.




Here the spur is a 54T 0.8 mod. As you can see the clearance between the spur and the e-maxx shaft is not very much, and the spur is the smallest I can reasonably mount.
I think the e-maxx shaft is a good and cheap choice for the rear but it is not the best solution in the front.
 
I believe super shafty make an extended transmission output shaft to put the driveshaft coupler past the spur gear.
 
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I found this aluminum tube at the hardware store it's a press fit over the tr any output. I then drilled the max yoke to fit it the pins are red lock tigated in the output. Only cost like 50 cents and now clears a 66 32p spur.







This has been holding up and stayed tight for 15-30 battery cycles




That's a 66 spur. Can now also run revo shafts on the front if I want. That's a, revo on the rear. I do have a spare revo shafts I should cut it to length and get it ready to go incase the max shafts breaks.


I ran max shafts on the front for about a year without the extended out put but had to do some dremel clearances on the cover to make it fit.

Very much worth it to me to be super strong for only a few bucks.
 
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Hot racing sales a all metal trany with extended outputs for like 90 bucks. And I mean all metal gears to trany case.
 
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