SWB bronco MIP driveshaft issue

[csailors]

SWB bronco MIP driveshaft issue (supplier Super Shafty)

I have had my RTR bronco for a while now and lost the front pinion driveshaft pin. First issue I’ve had so far after almost 2 years of abuse. So always looking to upgrade to better parts I looked into steel driveshaft upgrades due to the simple fact of changing the pinion input to the 5mm stub for way easier R&R down the road. On RPP Hobby I finally found a set of super shafts MIP HD driveshaft kit for the SWB ascenders.

Order them, also order gcm pinion adapters. get them all looks good. No directions. But seems straight forward. Build them. Compare lengths to originals,
Seems close but one yoke is longer by 4mm than the other 3 shorter yokes. Emailed about location, but while I wait I figured I’d just try them out. After finding some issues I didn’t like in test fitting they seemed to long. So I went forward with install to see if they would even fit.

They won’t. Slip joint is bottomed in lower yoke and axles are rolled at 30 degrees or more with shafts in. Lower links and shocks won’t even mount up due to driveshaft bind. At full droop they are bottomed. No compression for up travel at all. Needless to say I’m dissatisfied. But willing to put in the work if they can make it right. ( I have the K5 ascender also but the time aspect is what I don’t like wasting to trial for them)

Other issues I have found.

1. Cross pins for pinion yoke attachment is very loose fitting. To install you would have to bottom the thread on the pinion shaft to get it snug. Pin diameter is just to small or these two parts are not compatiable.

2.flats on trans outputs and holes one MIP short yokes are not a prefect alignment an set screws will land partially on the flat and partially on the shaft body.

3. Length is obviously incorrect even thought part number states SWB on the package.

4. No directions. (I’m still pretty new at scale crawlers but I do this all in 1.1 for the past 15 years so I’m confident in my suspension setup but this just flat won’t work.)

I’ll work on this issue more later with pictures if I can attach them for future users thinking of going MIP.

Shafts are still to long. Since I bought this ready to run I have no longer links or spacers to try to make it work. I’m thinking since the package has k5 written on it maybe it was a mix up. I also don’t know how long the shafts for this wheel base should be.

I’m going to measure links and check the link length sticky to see what it is. I’m assuming wb1.


https://image.ibb.co/eAxKH0/9-E7-E8999-43-C4-45-F0-A44-C-6537-DA0-F78-C7.jpg


https://image.ibb.co/gRkTAL/4101-FBE8-E27-D-4000-BDCE-D971-AA195-C7-E.jpg


https://image.ibb.co/bypYc0/A4-FB2-C24-651-F-441-F-96-E3-B6-C069-C4-FF57.jpg


That’s the best I can figure out. Not sure how to make them appear in the thread. Idk what HTML is or what type of embedding codes I should be using.

 

[Natedog]

K5 is 12.3” WBW, you have the wrong shafts.

 

[Natedog]

FYI, for pictures copy/paste the IMG link and the pics will show here instead of clickable links.

Looked at your pictures and the shaft ends should imo all be short for best joint angles. The two shafts are both long (and same length) which I don't see how that will work. Suppose the shorter female shaft goes in front, but the the male half can still bottom out in the female shafts. If they somehow fit, I would put the longer output piece at the rear of the transmission so as to keep the longer piece away from the ground. However, I still don't like the increased joint operating angle that it will create.

Placing the smaller diameter male shafts at the axles instead of transmission side should gain a bit more ground clearance.

What did SuperShafty say?

 

[Shinchu]

what natedog said. wrong ones for sure.
and yes just copy paste images like this *[img]

here is a freebie if you click "quote" on the bottom right of this pic you can see what i did.
[img]https://image.ibb.co/eAxKH0/9-E7-E8999-43-C4-45-F0-A44-C-6537-DA0-F78-C7.jp

***OOOOMMMMGGGGG that's huge!!!! you need to resize before posting. i think right now max is like 1200x1200 pixels?
i took the "g" out of .jpg on that so you can still see but yeah i had to break it so i don't violate forum rules. again.

 

[svt923]

IMGUR hosting app SUCKS. currently trying a less social media based app. Will report back with more pictures shortly.

FYI.

Imgur is good but their app sucks for anything but uploading pics from your phone. The desktop site is much better and can resize images to an appropriate size with a click.

Did you custom order the set for the Bronco because I only see a single option for the Ascender driveshaft kit on Super Shafty's site which I assume is the Blazer wheelbase?

 

[csailors]

Copy and pasted those links directly from ibb. Still not showing up. I’ll get that part figured out.


Now the news on the shafts. Pictures posted are of the package. Ordered from RPP Hobby. They specifically listed this kit as a HD kit for short wheel base. I believe it was F100, k10, and bronco.

Package says SWB.

natedog I agree with you on the yoke lengths. No reason for one longer yoke. I asked 3 separate time about yoke length and why there is one long and 3 short. No response to that as of yet. Super shafty wanted pictures with the originals which are what I posted here. That was last night. Have not heard anything as of today.

As for the yoke to pinion stub cross pin, he said the pin sticking out is not and issue. And the small amount of slop on the pin/hole he wouldn’t worry about personally. I sent a video showing this. However in my profession slop on your tolerance is not ideal and I’m not pleased with it either way. I don’t want to just live with it that will cause wear after heavy use to the pinion adapter which I don’t want. I also don’t want the small amount of engagement on one side while I have excess stick out on the other to get beat up and hung up in rocks. I bought the shafts for clearance and strength. At this point I should have just repaired my stock shafts. Which I may still do if I can’t get this issue solved.

Awaiting a reply on what’s going to happen. Off work for the next 5 days so really wanted to have this running by today. But that obviously isn’t going to happen.

Picture testing....

Got it!! I think. I have to resize them as I’m uploading them to the host, it then gives me options of embedded links. Viewer links or direct links. I size them and copy the direct link from the host site. Click the picture icon here and boom. Pictures finally. Lol those are new wheels for my 1/1 just for reference. Raceline monsters 32 bolt beadlocks.

No response or correction. Didn’t expect anything over the holidays but sent a email out yesterday just asking about a solution.
I’ll give them another day. If that doesn’t work I’ll be contacting RPP and see what they can do for me. A simple explanation would go a long way on what is being done about the issue.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Just looking up that product number seems to bring up nothing. I wonder if its been discontinued and RPP just has some old stock, I dont even see it on super shafties site.

Also as a product thats just labeled with a marker there could be some potential for miss labeling.

I had a set of the MIP's and they were a bit sloppy for sure, they never did break though.

 

[M1tch]

To be honest I tried some MiP shafts on my first Ascender and didn't like the larger cv cup which hung up on rocks and stuff a lot. I got the Vanquish input adaptors and used Junfac shafts. A lot easier to install and less hang up. The input adaptors mean you can use pretty much any shaft with a 5mm hole.

Maybe try to get a refund as they don't fit or even are not the correct part. Hope it works out good for you.

 

[csailors]

To be honest I tried some MiP shafts on my first Ascender and didn't like the larger cv cup which hung up on rocks and stuff a lot. I got the Vanquish input adaptors and used Junfac shafts. A lot easier to install and less hang up. The input adaptors mean you can use pretty much any shaft with a 5mm hole.

Maybe try to get a refund as they don't fit or even are not the correct part. Hope it works out good for you.

Those sound like the Xtreme series shafts. These are the HD style shafts with no cups.

I emailed super shafty again today as well as RPP who filled the order. I’m not pleased at this point and want either the correct parts or a refund so I can go somewhere else to buy my parts. This has been very poor service from both companies and they have lost my future business.

If I ever get this settled I’ll be going with junfac shafts from now on. I’m not pleased with the quality of these or the service. A week and half of silence after sending the wrong parts is unacceptable.

Will post back when more info comes about

 

[druz]

Junfac Shafts and the GCM adapters here... Easy peasy, lemon squeezy...

Good luck and I hope you get it all sorted out...


"thumbsup"

 

[csailors]

UPDATE:

After a week of no response I Finally got in contact with super Shafty by phone after contacting RPP and them contacting him. We discussed what I had vs what I needed. I said “send me whatever is suppose to come in the SWB kit if that’s what works”. He sent me replacement male shafts that are 63mm in length to replace the 76mm I originally got along with a replacement yoke for that kit.

Installed shafts and to my disappointment shafts are still to long. At ride height the male shaft is almost bottomed out inside the slip joint. Under very minimal suspension compression the shafts bottom out and bind severely and limit the uptravel. Original dirvelines you can go full sag to ful compression on all shocks. These MIP shafts are still limiting my up travel by 1/2-3/4” on my shock shafts. Once driveshafts bind, try’s to roll axle out or push transmission out of the skid.

Emailed him the results of these findings late last night after getting them installed and finding yet another issue. He replied within 10 minutes at 9:30pm. Asked more questions about my truck. Which is all stock except minor ride hide adjustments. Wanted to know link lengths, shocks, exc. he did state in his email he had sold quiet a few of these kits and this is the first issue he has ever seen like this. My truck is WB 1. Stock. Bought RTR. He gave no explication but again suggested shorter shafts (50mm which seems to be almost to short then)after again answering more questions I reply by asking where to go from here would again like this resolved in a timely fashion. Emailed this morning and this evening both with no reply.

Have his phone number now so I’ll be calling tomorrow to try to get this settled for the last time. Don’t know if this is his job or what but so far I’m very unhappy with the customer service and support of an vendor based issue.

I’m over this. On top of everything I have to spend all this time fighting to get support and the problem corrected and buy the “correct kit” and it still doesn’t work.

More disappointment to come. Stay tuned.

 

[Natedog]

To be honest I tried some MiP shafts on my first Ascender and didn't like the larger cv cup which hung up on rocks and stuff a lot. I got the Vanquish input adaptors and used Junfac shafts. A lot easier to install and less hang up. The input adaptors mean you can use pretty much any shaft with a 5mm hole.

Maybe try to get a refund as they don't fit or even are not the correct part. Hope it works out good for you.

X2 "thumbsup"

UPDATE:

After a week of no response I Finally got in contact with super Shafty by phone after contacting RPP and them contacting him. We discussed what I had vs what I needed. I said “send me whatever is suppose to come in the SWB kit if that’s what works”. He sent me replacement male shafts that are 63mm in length to replace the 76mm I originally got along with a replacement yoke for that kit.

Installed shafts and to my disappointment shafts are still to long. At ride height the male shaft is almost bottomed out inside the slip joint. Under very minimal suspension compression the shafts bottom out and bind severely and limit the uptravel. Original dirvelines you can go full sag to ful compression on all shocks. These MIP shafts are still limiting my up travel by 1/2-3/4” on my shock shafts. Once driveshafts bind, try’s to roll axle out or push transmission out of the skid.

Emailed him the results of these findings late last night after getting them installed and finding yet another issue. He replied within 10 minutes at 9:30pm. Asked more questions about my truck. Which is all stock except minor ride hide adjustments. Wanted to know link lengths, shocks, exc. he did state in his email he had sold quiet a few of these kits and this is the first issue he has ever seen like this. My truck is WB 1. Stock. Bought RTR. He gave no explication but again suggested shorter shafts (50mm which seems to be almost to short then)after again answering more questions I reply by asking where to go from here would again like this resolved in a timely fashion. Emailed this morning and this evening both with no reply.

Have his phone number now so I’ll be calling tomorrow to try to get this settled for the last time. Don’t know if this is his job or what but so far I’m very unhappy with the customer service and support of an vendor based issue.

I’m over this. On top of everything I have to spend all this time fighting to get support and the problem corrected and buy the “correct kit” and it still doesn’t work.

More disappointment to come. Stay tuned.

That's too bad, but by now I'd be looking for full refund and buy the parts that M1tch suggested, cheaper, small diameter steel shafts that many people have had success with. Hopefully you get good resolution soon. "thumbsup"

 

[csailors]

I have GCM adapters. This are the smaller diameter shafts just the HD series instead of the Xtreme series with the large universal cups to protect the u joint. . But I agree. I’ll be buying from someone else. (If I can even get a refund)

If I could get him to answer my emails or my calls I would do just that. Just refund my money, I’ll send all the parts back and you can test your new product out before you sell it and verify it works. Not on cutomers time and money.

I had to contact RPP last time he stopped responding to my contact. He emailed me directly right after I talked with RPP. I shouldn’t have to do that, but I suppose I have come this far.

If I can’t get a response within the next 2 days, Ill just modify parts as needed to make something work and keep everything I have for the trouble. Pretty sure I could swap all these parts to my K5 and it would all work.

At this point replacing the factory cup cross pin would have been the same day done.

Waiting 2 days. Then I’m breaking contact with super Shafty completely.

 

[csailors]

Update. RPP is coming through with no issues thankfully.

Super Shafty won’t send anymore parts unless I send him the first wrong parts back. This was never voiced. Still no help. Ignored me for a week and then told me this. After this I stopped dealing with him and went directly back to RPP. They are going to send me a return label, I’ll return them everything and they will give me a complete refund. After 5 weeks of B.S. and terrible customer service I’m getting my money back and going with someone else.

Who deals in junfac shafts?

 

[high plains drifter]

Who deals in junfac shafts?

Here in the US, RC Planet out of Utah and Active Powersports out of California are listed as suppliers of Junfac shafts. All other listings that I've seen have been thru ebay or Amazon.

 

[M1tch]

Good to hear you got somewhere with this. It's a shame this has to happen these days. Businesses just don't seem to realise their reputation relies a lot on customer service. Good luck with the Junfac's, I like have them on a few trucks. Just keep an eye on the grubscrew that holds the pin in the CV joint.

 

[csailors]

Parts shipped back today. Super Shafty talked to RPP and they are forcing me to send all parts back to him now and they will issue a refund to me once he gets the parts.

Now I have to depend on a guy who’s customer service and communication sucks to relay to RPP that he got the parts. Then they issue the refund. I totally expect him to ignore this as he has everything else and screw me another time on getting my money back.

I’ll report back on the outcome of this issue. Somewhere we can leave feedback so someone else may avoid deals with this person and save them the headache?

 

[high plains drifter]

Somewhere we can leave feedback so someone else may avoid deals with this person and save them the headache?

There is a feedback section but I was under the impression that it was implemented for individual members buying/ selling.

What RCC needs imo is a DIRTY LAUNDRY section where anyone can publicly post about any grievance that they have... companies, manufacturers, Kardashian's, etc.

 

[THX_138]

There is a feedback section but I was under the impression that it was implemented for individual members buying/ selling.

What RCC needs imo is a DIRTY LAUNDRY section where anyone can publicly post about any grievance that they have... companies, manufacturers, Kardashian's, etc.

You are 100% correct, the feedback section is ONLY for deals that are completed through our Rccrawler classifieds section, or directly through an active ad a vendor has open selling something.

As for a “dirty laundry”section..... that already exists and that would be the “chit chat” section.

Personal outside looking in....
I do not see an issue with someone wanting wrong parts back in hand before issuing a refund or sending out more new ones.
Although you may have zero intentions of screwing someone over and keeping a bunch of stuff... very unfortunately you are NOT the norm and many people out there lie repeatedly about parts fitting, being right/wrong etc... for the sole purpose of never paying for a bunch of stuff they receive.

To bash on a person/company for wanting to cover their own investments in a legit and commonly processed fashion by first getting their items back in hand is wrong.

Sadly the entire world is not honest people, especially dealing over the internet.

 

[csailors]

You are 100% correct, the feedback section is ONLY for deals that are completed through our Rccrawler classifieds section, or directly through an active ad a vendor has open selling something.

As for a “dirty laundry”section..... that already exists and that would be the “chit chat” section.

Personal outside looking in....
I do not see an issue with someone wanting wrong parts back in hand before issuing a refund or sending out more new ones.
Although you may have zero intentions of screwing someone over and keeping a bunch of stuff... very unfortunately you are NOT the norm and many people out there lie repeatedly about parts fitting, being right/wrong etc... for the sole purpose of never paying for a bunch of stuff they receive.

To bash on a person/company for wanting to cover their own investments in a legit and commonly processed fashion by first getting their items back in hand is wrong.

Sadly the entire world is not honest people, especially dealing over the internet.

I agree. I also understand this practice, however they should voice this up front, as I was just wanting the correct parts after 4+ weeks. I picture documented everything and have emails. Was never trying to get a handout. I just expect more competency in a someone trying to run a business

I was never bashing him for wanting his parts back. I’d gladly send them back if I would have received the correct parts the second attempt. His piss poor customer service just had me mad and I was tired of wasting time for his incompetency. I understand miss lablebed parts once. The wrong parts after speaking over the phone and him telling me these were “the right parts” for the kit is rediculous.

Still waiting on word they received the parts back. Not holding my breath....

I’ll only bash them for poor service and ignoring customer issues. Can’t speak to the parts anyway never got to use them.