Soldering

[Jackson233]

So I have been watching videos and spending literally hours everyday 'trying to solder' - I bought multiple feet of wire, bullet connectors, XT60's and I have made zero progress with everything other than tinning wire. Connecting said wire to a connector seems impossible for me as I can never get it 'set in place'.

I'd love to blame my shitty hand function from my disability on it, but I have worked to get a good work space with aids to keep things steady as needed so I can't use that as an excuse. I've just always sucked at doing shit with my hands.

There are wires that I need to solder in the immediate future to get my truck finished (ESC mainly) and I don't know what to do. Wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions - any place to look for someone to teach me or show me how while they do it?

Beyond frustrated here

 

[Poconoscale]

Helping hands and a hot iron

 

[Ragenwraith]

Best advice I can give you is make sure you have a hot iron and make sure the surfaces are clean. Wipe the areas to be joined with alcohol to be sure there is no dirt or oils on the parts. Use a good flux on the wire and the soldering post and a high grade of solder. Take your time heating the materials with the iron and the solder will melt and flow easily.

 

[CODYBOY]

So I have been watching videos and spending literally hours everyday 'trying to solder' - I bought multiple feet of wire, bullet connectors, XT60's and I have made zero progress with everything other than tinning wire. Connecting said wire to a connector seems impossible for me as I can never get it 'set in place'.

I'd love to blame my shitty hand function from my disability on it, but I have worked to get a good work space with aids to keep things steady as needed so I can't use that as an excuse. I've just always sucked at doing shit with my hands.

There are wires that I need to solder in the immediate future to get my truck finished (ESC mainly) and I don't know what to do. Wondering if anyone has any tips or suggestions - any place to look for someone to teach me or show me how while they do it?

Beyond frustrated here

My thoughts are that your soldering iron isn't getting the joints hot enough to fuse. All my other thoughts have all been covered, tinned tip, clean joints, and a paste type flux.
Ernie

 

[Sodapop]

When I did my apprenticeship it was hammered into me to "heat the joint, not the solder"

 

[nightcrawler48]

The way I've read this, it would seem the OP is getting everything set up right but at the end can't keep the 2 items together while the solder cools. Maybe . . . . . . . . ?

When you first start soldering it seems you need minimum of 3 hands and 4 would be even better. I made up this little soldering setup years ago because I had the same frustrations. A cheap vacuum base vise from Harbor Freight, a homemade plywood base with a pivoting arm, and a ratcheting clamp. The pivoting arm has a v-groove cut in it to hold the wire in position.



I've shown it with a connector setup for soldering to an ESC or battery. As this was just setup as a demonstration, the connector and the wire have not been tinned.

The idea of the pivoting arm is to be able to apply a little pressure between the connector and the wire. After tinning the connector and the wire, set up to solder as shown. Hold the soldering tip to the side opposite the tinned side of the connector tab and when the solder on the connector has melted, put the soldering tip on the wire and melt the tinned solder on the wire. The pressure from the pivoting arm will push the wire on to the connector and when the tinned solder melts, take the soldering tip off and wait a few seconds for the joint to cool and you're done. A little practice and you'll have a perfect joint every time.

You will notice the connector has both the male and female pieces connected together. Good or bad, I saw this on YouTube and the idea is the connector not being soldered acts as a heat sink to keep the other connector being soldered a little bit cooler. It was recommended for Deans connectors as way to also keep the contacts aligned if by chance you apply a little too much heat.

 

[JacktheRipper]

Place the iron on the under side, heat the bullet from the bottom. Let the heat go up and to the top. Apply the solder from the top side, it will find it way down.

Keeping the solder touching the top while it heats, as soon as it melts, you're done. Don't keep the iron on the bullet any longer than the time it start to flow.

Or send me the bullet connectors, and wire I'll fix you up .... NC. < btw

As mentioned you're not getting everything hot enough.

Pep

 

[Jackson233]

The way I've read this, it would seem the OP is getting everything set up right but at the end can't keep the 2 items together while the solder cools. Maybe . . . . . . . . ?

I think this sums up my problem... wire tinned, but getting it connected to the xt60 or connector is my mess... connector cools by the time I get the wire tip against it and I can't get everything soft again

 

[B-MOW71]

I think this sums up my problem... wire tinned, but getting it connected to the xt60 or connector is my mess... connector cools by the time I get the wire tip against it and I can't get everything soft again

I used to have the same problem! I had a cheap soldering iron that would not get hot enough.

Then I bought one of these. I now have zero problems soldering!

 

[Jim85IROC]

When I solder XT60 connectors, I fill the cup where the wire goes full of solder, and hold the iron on the back side of the cup to keep it liquified as I insert the tinned wire. There's more than enough mass and heat in that pool of solder to melt the solder that's tinned to the wire and create a solid bond. Sometimes I'll also stick the iron right down into the cup with the tinned wire, and add a little more solder to it to facilitate better heat transfer.

While the Sodapop was right that you want to heat the joint and not the solder, it's important to remember that having a little bit of solder on the tip or in the joint to transfer heat from the iron to that joint is also critical, so make sure you've got at least a little bit of melted solder on that tip.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

When I solder XT60 connectors, I fill the cup where the wire goes full of solder, and hold the iron on the back side of the cup to keep it liquified as I insert the tinned wire. There's more than enough mass and heat in that pool of solder to melt the solder that's tinned to the wire and create a solid bond. Sometimes I'll also stick the iron right down into the cup with the tinned wire, and add a little more solder to it to facilitate better heat transfer.

While the Sodapop was right that you want to heat the joint and not the solder, it's important to remember that having a little bit of solder on the tip or in the joint to transfer heat from the iron to that joint is also critical, so make sure you've got at least a little bit of melted solder on that tip.

This is how I solder XT60 connectors.

It never hurts to hit both connections with heat before trying to join then.

And a quality soldering iron is a must. The cheap ones work fine for some stuff, but they run out of heat quickly and make soldering more difficult than it needs to be.

 

[Greatscott]

Where are you trying to solder? Is in a warm room, or cold garage?

 

[Jackson233]

Thanks everyone, you've boostered my will to continue trying. I did buy a good Weller iron, the 1010, and it definitely helped me to the point that I can now easily and consistently tin wires... something I couldn't do 2 weeks ago without making a blobby mess (I had a cheap iron without a fine tip).

I'll take all of your suggestions and continue to work at the connectors, thank you!

 

[LSXGMC]

Clean tip, leaded solder (lower melting point) and paste flux.

 

[Jackson233]

Clean tip, leaded solder (lower melting point) and paste flux.

I was going to ask this... flux is still recommended despite solder wire having it?

 

[gottorque]

I have a cheap Weller iron and need to use flux for best results. But I can make fairly nice joints on both 12 and 14ga wire. Running silver bearing rosen core electrical solder.

 

[high plains drifter]

I was going to ask this... flux is still recommended despite solder wire having it?

Yes... plus you'll need to solder something that won't be tinned at some point. This is what I use... cheap, good and will last long time.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/miniat...MI6u_q1LfD5gIVQdbACh2n9AVlEAQYASABEgK4ePD_BwE

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Clean tip, leaded solder (lower melting point) and paste flux.

Good points. Also, the thinner the solder the better.

When I started soldering I tried using something like .125" thick and I was having a hell of a time. My dad told me to switch to something thinner. Now I'm on .032" or .062" and it takes much less heat.