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Silent outrunner and ESC for less then $60

Voodoobrew

I wanna be Dave
Joined
Feb 19, 2017
Messages
2,128
Location
My mothers basement
Updated: August/19/2021
A different less Drunk tutorial can be found on Github here

Here is a video I made you can watch too, it also talks about using a flight controller to update and configure the firmware. It is where you would set your motor KV and change the startup power.
(At the moment it is outdated and shows using the power from the ST-link, Don't use power from the ST-link, they burn up too easy.)

Basically you can skip some of the more complicated things and do it all with just the STM32CubeProgrammer with 4wires, and the flight controller using the receiver plug and a battery.

I am basically copying these instructions from my PDF file I shared earlier in a few places. I will try to keep this post updated but if not all the files in my google drive will be the most recent.

This motor HobbyStar 2820 (3542) Brushless Outrunner Motor 1450KV

works pretty good, the big downside is the 5mm shaft. so you need a 5mm pinion.
Holmes Hobbies, and Team Brood both have a wide variety of outrunners with 1/8th pinion shafts but they cost quite a bit more too.


How to program a Airbot wraith32 35A v1 ESC to run the Holmes Hobbies Revolver 1400kv or 1000kv silently.
First off a huge credit goes out to AlkaM from https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=696658 who Designed this firmware, and continues to update and improve it. I am actually older firmware here because I can’t figure the new stuff out yet.
Also Thank You to those who posted in his forums who have preceded me: MadMax, MGeo, possibly others…
The main purpose of this tutorial is to run a Holmes Hobbies Revolver with out all that noise. Other outrunner motors will probably work fine as well. I have only tested this with the 1400kv stubby revolver, and I have heard the 1800kv or higher will suffer in performance. I don’t know why, something to do with loosing torque.
The firmware I am using at the time of writing this does not have the greatest drag brake. I think its just a setting I need to find but… I haven’t found it yet… I’m hoping some one else will make me a nice firmware.bin file I had a different esc earlier that preformed better from a different version of the same opensource firmware and it ran great IMO.
I will not be covering compiling the firmware in depth, but I am using AlkaM’s firmware from here https://github.com/AlkaMotors/AM32-MultiRotor-ESC-firmware and the target used for the wraith is MP6531. When you import it into STM32CubeIDE the project is called F051_II_bi_dir. That’s the quick version… That’s all you get…
Note, I have only tested this with the Airbot wraith32 35A v1, the Airbot wraith32 35A v1 and the 50A Airbot wraith32 Plus.
Step 1: Gather your supplies
You’re going to need a table… and an esc (probably this specific ESC), and a ST-link v2 programmer with jumper wires, a BEC or BUCK converter (to power the servo and reciever), soldering Iron with a small tip, wires, non acid flux, and a Windows 10 computer.
Recommended optional supplies –a magnifying glass, or a good zoom for your camera (because this crap is tiny!) I use open camera (for android) because it doesn’t fall asleep.


Step 2: Soldering- Part1
Solder Tiny wires to SWD (SWDIO), SWC (SWCLK), PWM, and - (GND, main negative power in for ESC).
Also Solder leads and a battery terminal to the (+POS - main positive power and - (- GND - main ground).

Tip: We need some tiny wire, I use stranded silicone 26awg wire. Its flexibility helps to keep it from tearing the tiny solder pads off.
Tip: An alternative to soldering wires to the SWD and SWC pads you can use pogo pins and just hold them in place by hand and use automatic mode when programming.
Note to self: consider updating this picture.


You Might as well solder the leads for the Motor and signal to the receiver now too.
Depending on how you do the wiring just make sure you send the power to the receiver without going through a bec first to lower the voltage, most receivers dont like 3s power.

Step 3: Download and install Software

STM32CubeProgrammer
We need this to disable write protection on the Option bytes, and to load the firmware. https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stm32cubeprog.html#get-software
I think you need to register or something, but it's free, no credit card, just an annoyance.​
Step 4: Connect ST-programmer
Relatively straight forward, make sure you got your wires in the right locations.
3 wires connect to the ST-Link, SWD (SWDIO), SWC (SWCLK), and - (GND).
For power use your battery pack connected to the battery plug on the esc.
It is better to not use the power from the ST-Link as its too easy to kill the ST-links if you are not careful.
Check your wires again, seriously, just do it! Especially the power wire.
Connect the ST-Link to your computer.
(Removed) Step 5: Unlocking something w/ OpenOCD
I am not 100% sure this step is necessary but were doing it because we went through a lot of work installing the software for it already.

Turns out it wasn't necessary...

Step 6: STM32CubeProgrammer

With your ESC and ST-Link connected open STM32CubeProgrammer and click the green connect button in the upper right corner.
1.Click on OB (Option bytes)
2.Select “Read Out Protection” and Set to AA
3.Select “Write Protection” and check all the empty boxes, scroll through, get them all and clickapply.
4.Now do a full chip memory erase

Oh I never told you to download the firmware.bin file… You also will need the interwebs, you probably have that if your made it this far, and the table is probably optional… Download the wraith_crawler_full_x.xx.bin file from (It is just a .bin file It could be called anything.bin) https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ggvkWlLNjDMoB1ryCYy4fE_xQ2l5m2cL?usp=sharing
5.Select Erasing & Programming from the left
6.Browse for the firmware you just downloaded
7.Set the start address to 0x08000000 if it isn’t already
Info: if you have already uploaded a full file you can upload a part file at 0x08008000, the part files do not contain the bootloader. Part files are better uploaded from the configurator though.
8.Check the verify programming box if it isn’t already
9.And start programming (we are not going to do actual programming, were just loading some firmware, get a hold of yourself man!)
10.Unplug the ST-link from the esc and computer, Leaving it plugged in to the PC causes them to overheat.

Tip: You only need to upload the bootloader with the ST-link, these can be downloaded here too - Bootloaders - Next in the configurator you can upload the firmware and then click load default settings to install the EEPROM.
Step 7: Optional Testing
This probably shouldn’t be optional, but I don’t feel like explaining how to connect all your receivers, motors and batteries. I mean really if you made it this far, consider your self a pro! You can do this!
Step 8: Unsolder and Resolder
Unsolder all these wires and pins
As usual you need to solder the positive and negative battery leads on the 2 tab side.
The motor wires go to the 3 tab side (if the motor is going the wrong direction swap any 2 of these wires)
This esc was not designed to power a servo, so only run the ground and PWM to your receiver
Connect all this to your RC car
That’s about it…
If everthing went acording to plan, you should end up with something that looks like this.
 
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Creating a PC Link to AM32 using an Arduino.

I use the cheapest Arduino Nano's that I can find. They use the a ATmega328P chip but other chips also may work with Method 1. For example these amazon recommended ones will work fine.. You can also find Nano's with different USB plug types that suit your preference, they all work the same.

You want to connect the Signal/PWM from the ESC the pin D3 on the Arduino Nano and Ground to Ground (I know they call it one wire but there are 2 ��

20210526-111526.jpg


Note: Some of these cheap Arduino Nano's come with a different (Older) bootloader, but its no big deal, both of these methods will work with either bootloader.

Here are 2 ways to create an Arduino pc link.

Method 1 is probably the easiest way

Method 1 using BLHeli32 software

First go to https://www.mediafire.com/folder/dx6kfaasyo24l/BLHeliSuite to download the BLHeliSuite software for your OS and then install it.

1) After installation is complete open the BLHeliSuite software and navigate to the Tab labeled "Make interfaces"

2) Plug in your Arduino, check to make sure that it shows up in your computer ports and select it.

3) Select your board from the dropdown list, The Arduino Nano may be "Nano w/ ATmega328 (new Bootloader)" or "Nano w/ ATmega328 (old Bootloader)"

4) Select Arduino BLHheli Bootloader to create a one wire interface.

5) Double check that your settings are all correct and click the button labeled "Arduino BLHeli Bootloader" and click confirm to program your Arduino.

Arduino-Interface.jpg


Method 2 using Arduino IDE

Learning to use an Arduino is fun and challenging. I highly recommend using Arduino IDE to get your feet wet in the programming world.
Here is a link to the BLHheli 1wire code that you can upload to your Arduino AM32pin3Link.ino.

This is slightly more involved then I can thoroughly explain right now. Basically after installing the Arduino IDE you will probably need to go into tools>Boards manager and install the drivers for your Arduino board, then again in the tools menu select your board, bootloader and port. Double clicking on the .ino file should import it directly then you verify and upload it.

Using the Arduino PC Link with AM32 config Tool

You must use version 1.67 of The Multi ESC Config tool

Connect your programed Arduino PC Link to your PC's USB port.

Connect your ESC to your Arduino PC Link using PWM on the ESC to pin D3 on the Arduino and ground to ground.

Connect your battery or power supply to the main ESC power terminals.

Open the ESC Config Tool.

1) Check Direct Connect when using an Arduino PC Link (not when using a flight controller interface).

2) Select your Arduino Port.

3) Click the Connect Button.

4) Read the ESC settings using the M1 button.

Now you can adjust your settings, change tabs and upload new firmware, or load default eeprom settings.

5) When your done save your settings.

To double check that your settings were applied, close the connection then re-connect and hit M1 again.

ESC-Config-Tool.jpg


This video shows the approximate performance of the setup, I will upload a video of this exact setup as soon as I can, but the firmware is the same, just slightly different hardware. Should be able to do it this week some time.

 
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That is one very slow and quiet combo. How is the drag brake? Have you had a chance to put it through its paces yet?"thumbsup"
 
That is one very slow and quiet combo. How is the drag brake? Have you had a chance to put it through its paces yet?"thumbsup"

The active drag brake is pretty good, the regular drag brake seems a bit weaker then my crawlmaster pro 550 but not by much. Its pretty close to holding this truck on a 60 degree incline.
 
Here is a video of a 55a wraith and the $25 motor. I have it geared at 56:1 which is about the same as an scx10ii with a 10t pinion.

This is what you can expect from the current firmware for cheap

If your wires aren't a wreck like this you did it wrong...
 
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Ever run one of your outrunners on a tekin esc? When I swapped my tekin esc out for a castle, it got a whole lot louder. Just curious if the outrunner would be quiter on a tekin. (I don't own any outrunners to test).

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
I don't have any tekin. Their esc's are over 10x the price of these so there is zero chance I will be purchasing one to find out. $15 vs $200 esc. Can the tekin lay golden eggs? I get buying nice things. But honestly I have as much fun shopping and fiddling with rc as I do driving them. Tekin limits the amount of shopping I can do...

__________________________
Handy gearing spreadsheet
 
So here are 2 Videos using the stock BLHeli32 Firmware so you can see, the Wraith32 or other Quadcopter ESC's aren't terrible ESC's if you don't want to go through the work of reprograming them.

<a href="https://youtu.be/zLdP6-4fasw"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/F6Wgq39/Screenshot-2021-01-06-145004.jpg" alt="Youtube - Wraith32 35A Stock Firmware" border="0"></a><br />

<a href="https://youtu.be/e-wQsNfY3Js"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/qrx8v2J/Screenshot-2021-01-06-144934.jpg" alt="Youtube - Overpriced Crawler ESC Rant" border="0"></a>
 
Update: I got some IFlight 50A Sussex ESC's they take different firmware but they work just as good as the wraiths. But only $18 for the 50A version. There is also an 80A version that would work the same, but I have not tested it.
I put the needed firmware on the google drive.
 
I have ordered one of these ESC to give it a shot.
My main concern is the programing. Still have to order one of those ST-Link. A cheap one from ebay is enough?
I will be trying it on a bit higher Kv Outrunner (2200kv), lets see how it will work...

Thank you for all the work you've put in to this!
 
I have done everything to program the esc and it all looks good. When I plug in a battery it comes on for a short moment, chimes, and powers off. Can you help me please?
 
Decided to take a second whack at this. Thank you much for sharing all the files and this tutorial.

This time seems to be more successful than last time. I get the dixie tune on start up but nothing beyond that. Thinking I fried the esc at some point? Never smelled like burning and never got any magic smoke though. The only sign of a fried esc is the indicator LEDs light up real bright when battery is first plugged in then fade like a cap going. But it will do this everytime I plug in.

Thanks much for the help in advance. Really would like to get the two escs Ive been tinkering with going.
 
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