shock and chassis help

[ben h]

looking for shocks for this rig will be running in droop setup to get as low as i can ( its taller then i want in these pics) looking for a 100-120mm shock (105 is scale for whats on my 1:1 rig) id love a resivor shock just like these but rc run turned out to be crap and broke carrying the rig. so debating on the proline scaler 105mm shock


up next im over the no link mounting options on this chassis i have started to design my own flat rail chassis because i want to keep a flat bed and cant find one thats flat in that area to do what id like also used a calculator to make the perfect rear chassis setup i just need to get started on the front

wheel base will be 14-14.5 inches its currently at 14.5 but in 1:9.3 scale a 131in( 80s chevy long box) wheel base is 14in ( rc4wd blazer body is 1:9.35 scale compairing its wheel base to a blazer)


how wide should frame rails be? ill be designing and building everything just not sure what to do for that. also gunna be lowering my motor trans as much as possible



<a href="https://ibb.co/3vFR30y"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/42S1qjZ/chassis.png" alt="chassis" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/XWpSZsw"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/4FMPZTQ/chevy1.jpg" alt="chevy1" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/b6FvbqP"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/fX9NDB2/chevy2.jpg" alt="chevy2" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/7kT7r0r"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/9ZfRydy/chevy3.jpg" alt="chevy3" border="0"></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/jbZydB6"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/ydB6DGf/rc-chassis-perfect-crawler-rear-setup.png" alt="rc-chassis-perfect-crawler-rear-setup" border="0"></a>

 

[DrIsotope]

I'd like to both strongly recommend against ProLine, and strongly suggest Yeah Racing Desert Lizards. I think I'm up to 5 or 6 rigs on Desert Lizards, and have absolutely no complaints about them. You can get them in 110mm, and how you set up the dual internals springs can easily shorten the overall length to 105mm.

 

[ben h]

I'd like to both strongly recommend against ProLine, and strongly suggest Yeah Racing Desert Lizards. I think I'm up to 5 or 6 rigs on Desert Lizards, and have absolutely no complaints about them. You can get them in 110mm, and how you set up the dual internals springs can easily shorten the overall length to 105mm.

my only problem with the desert lizards shocks is the look of them this is a scaler of my full size crawler and id atleast like them to some what resemble my king coilovers that are going on it. otherwise i have a few sets of them already and ill agree they are great shocks but

is there a reason for not liking the prolines?



for specs im liking the powerstroke xt on the rear and regular powerstroke on the front doing some line drawing on fusion they come out at somthing that measures up good

 

[ben h]

made some progress on the chassis design just gotta send the file off to a buddy to get it to cut out.
i did order the proline powerstroke 5in for rear and 102mm for the fronts
could finish the skid but not sure on the bolt pattern on the TGH OG gear box

debating on making body mounts out of metal or to print them

then redesign the bed after i know were the body is gunna mount!


<a href="https://ibb.co/QQ3RtTp"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/1Qt5jP7/chevy-frame-pic.png" alt="chevy-frame-pic" border="0"></a>

 

[lonleycreeper]

made some progress on the chassis design just gotta send the file off to a buddy to get it to cut out.
i did order the proline powerstroke 5in for rear and 102mm for the fronts
could finish the skid but not sure on the bolt pattern on the TGH OG gear box

debating on making body mounts out of metal or to print them

then redesign the bed after i know were the body is gunna mount!

I would suggest printing the body mounts, or use nylon body posts until you have everything sorted.
Metal will typically bend and not go back to where it needs to be, really annoying when you are trying to mount the body back up after a crash.

 

[ben h]

I would suggest printing the body mounts, or use nylon body posts until you have everything sorted.
Metal will typically bend and not go back to where it needs to be, really annoying when you are trying to mount the body back up after a crash.

not using regular body mounts i have the frame mounted ones that hold under the cab i have broken a few sets of these currently so not sure if its because of them that my body has been saved. probly will get on designing a set just like this i guess lol can make electronic mounts in them also then i guess

https://www.myminifactory.com/objec...y-mount-set-for-scx10ii-ssd-trail-king-118970

 

[MOguy]

not using regular body mounts i have the frame mounted ones that hold under the cab i have broken a few sets of these currently so not sure if its because of them that my body has been saved. probly will get on designing a set just like this i guess lol can make electronic mounts in them also then i guess

https://www.myminifactory.com/objec...y-mount-set-for-scx10ii-ssd-trail-king-118970

Those body mounts/skids will snag everything, they are probably taken a beating and that is why you break them.

Get something smooth that slips across the rocks instead of catching on them. I see 3D printed skids break and people dragging their electronics. I was using metal skids (max out points for C1) to hold my body and electronics and they can take the beating, they are just heavy. I wish I had a good answer, but I am still looking. Right now I am using a chunk of an element skid filed down smooth and just big enough to hold my ESC but I am using a lexan body right now with mounting posts. I would like to find a decent skid that is smooth, light, will hold my body and electronics and take a beating.


As far as droop? When you say as low as you can do you mean allowing to drop the axle as far from the chassis as possible or allow the chassis to get as low as possible when the suspension cycles. Are you saying droop to mean down travel or a way to tune your shocks?

 

[ben h]

Those body mounts/skids will snag everything, they are probably taken a beating and that is why you break them.

Get something smooth that slips across the rocks instead of catching on them. I see 3D printed skids break and people dragging their electronics. I was using metal skids (max out points for C1) to hold my body and electronics and they can take the beating, they are just heavy. I wish I had a good answer, but I am still looking. Right now I am using a chunk of an element skid filed down smooth and just big enough to hold my ESC but I am using a lexan body right now with mounting posts. I would like to find a decent skid that is smooth, light, will hold my body and electronics and take a beating.


As far as droop? When you say as low as you can do you mean allowing to drop the axle as far from the chassis as possible or allow the chassis to get as low as possible when the suspension cycles. Are you saying droop to mean down travel or a way to tune your shocks?

yea i might just order some titanium rod and flat stock and make some out of metal. your right they do catch and not allow it to slide. good point in not printing another set.


truck will be in a droop setup so will have lots of downtravel just little up travel. it sat quite high in the pics above but didnt have good shocks to really tune it so this time i will make it sit were i want to

 

[MOguy]

yea i might just order some titanium rod and flat stock and make some out of metal. your right they do catch and not allow it to slide. good point in not printing another set.


truck will be in a droop setup so will have lots of downtravel just little up travel. it sat quite high in the pics above but didnt have good shocks to really tune it so this time i will make it sit were i want to

I like more up travel than down put if you want down travel mount the top of your shock to the chassis. Mount it so the shock leans towards the center.