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SCX24 Chassis and Performance Differences

JatoTheRipper

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I was under the assumption that all of the SCX24 chassis were exactly the same. So I was shocked to learn on YouTube last night that the Deadbolt is different. It appears the C10 and Jeep have the same chassis, but different sized tires whereas the Deadbolt has the same size tires as the Jeep, but the skid plate is moved forward in the chassis and, as a result, the front links are shortened and the rear links are extended.

I'm thinking this will make the Deadbolt a better forward climber whereas the C10 and Jeep will be more balanced.

Thoughts? Personal experiences comparing the different chassis and different bodies?

axi90081t2_side_950px.jpg


axi000021t1_side_950px.jpg


axi00001t1_side.jpg



Deadbolt chassis side:

AXI90081_02_side_950.jpg



Jeep chassis side:

side_950.jpg



Deadbolt chassis 3/4:

chassis_2_950.jpg
[/IMG]


Jeep chassis 3/4:

jeep_chassis_2_950.jpg



C10 chassis 3/4:

scx24_c10_t1_950.jpg
 
The skid plate is in the same location, it comes with the chassis and there's only one chasis part number that applies to all 3 versions.
The difference is in the deadbolt has shorter links that make it look like the skid plate is farther forward.
I've been curious to get the other link set to compare lengths. I don't trust the advertised specs. Horrizon has listed the wrong pinion tooth count and motor size size the beginning and the WheelBase in the advertisements is different than what's listed under specs, so IDK what the official wheelbase is

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
So my mini started as a deadbolt, it was the only one I could find.

As I got it to twin my 10.3 I’ve had to go through the process of converting it to a JL. I didn’t realize how different they were and that it wouldn’t be as easy as a straight body swap.

After going through the available parts and comparing my deadbolt chassis to the pics of the Jeep it seems the chassis is the same, but the links and shock mounts are different between the two.

With all that in mind, I think the deadbolt will have a little bit more forward weight bias than the Jeep. How big of a difference that makes Im not sure. But since I haven’t gotten the parts to change the wheelbase yet (in the mail for tomorrow) I’ll see if I can do some bench line testing to compare before I switch the links.
 
The skid plate is in the same location, it comes with the chassis and there's only one chasis part number that applies to all 3 versions.
The difference is in the deadbolt has shorter links that make it look like the skid plate is farther forward.
I've been curious to get the other link set to compare lengths. I don't trust the advertised specs. Horrizon has listed the wrong pinion tooth count and motor size size the beginning and the WheelBase in the advertisements is different than what's listed under specs, so IDK what the official wheelbase is

Yeah you're right. I see that now. It was just an optical illusion playing tricks on me.


So my mini started as a deadbolt, it was the only one I could find.

As I got it to twin my 10.3 I’ve had to go through the process of converting it to a JL. I didn’t realize how different they were and that it wouldn’t be as easy as a straight body swap.

After going through the available parts and comparing my deadbolt chassis to the pics of the Jeep it seems the chassis is the same, but the links and shock mounts are different between the two.

With all that in mind, I think the deadbolt will have a little bit more forward weight bias than the Jeep. How big of a difference that makes Im not sure. But since I haven’t gotten the parts to change the wheelbase yet (in the mail for tomorrow) I’ll see if I can do some bench line testing to compare before I switch the links.

I agree that it seems like the more forward weight bias of the Deadbolt would be beneficial, but that body is tall and it has the hard plastic cage up top which has to move the COG up a bit.
 
Just before stores shut down I went and bought two of the Chevy's. Both came with the shorter links for the front and if i recall possibly a shorter drive shaft. I was wondering why these were included being shorter. Maybe it was to convert it to a shorter wheelbase if you wanted to get the deadbolt body?
 
It's likely for the same reason, but with different links. The deadbolt also comes with optional shorter rear links to get a shorter wheelbase.

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Oh they come with the other links? That's cool. I just have to decide which one I want and then pre-order one. I love the C10 body, but not the color schemes. I also wish it had the bigger tires. The Jeep body is cool too. I probably like the Deadbolt the least, but it looks like it may perform the best.
 
Oh they come with the other links? That's cool. I just have to decide which one I want and then pre-order one. I love the C10 body, but not the color schemes. I also wish it had the bigger tires. The Jeep body is cool too. I probably like the Deadbolt the least, but it looks like it may perform the best.
I might try stripping the paint (in a small test patch) on my C10...

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I got a Deadbolt and a Chevy which I'm sure you've seen on my IG posts.

My son drives the Deadbolt, and I drive the Chevy. He like the ease of bigger tires, but I like the looks, challenge and stability of the Chevy.

This is my 4th attempt at small micro scale, and these SCX24's are finally a keeper that I'm happy with at this small scale.

1. Orlandoo hunter - I like these a lot, but I really just treat them like mini models.
2. Pro-line ambush - Just didn't cut it performance-wise for me.... traded it off
3. WPL 1/18 scales - Great bodies, crappy everything else. They'll make good projects once you swap everything out, but I just haven't had time.
4. SCX24 - pretty good performance for a small rig. It's a keeper.


You could always mask off the windows and paint the chevy body on the outside if you wanted to change the color. I think they sell, or will be selling the clear bodies as well. They already sell clear Deadbolt and Jeep bodies.
 
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I might try stripping the paint (in a small test patch) on my C10...

That's a good idea!


I got a Deadbolt and a Jeep which I'm sure you've seen on my IG posts.

My son drives the Deadbolt, and I drive the Chevy. He like the ease of bigger tires, but I like the looks, challenge and stability of the Chevy.

This is my 4th attempt at small micro scale, and these SCX24's are finally a keeper that I'm happy with at this small scale.

1. Orlandoo hunter - I like these a lot, but I really just treat them like mini models.
2. Pro-line ambush - Just didn't cut it performance-wise for me.... traded it off
3. WPL 1/18 scales - Great bodies, crappy everything else. They'll make good projects once you swap everything out, but I just haven't had time.
4. SCX24 - pretty good performance for a small rig. It's a keeper.


You could always mask off the windows and paint the chevy body on the outside if you wanted to change the color. I think they sell, or will be selling the clear bodies as well. They already sell clear Deadbolt and Jeep bodies.

I tried the micros before as well. I currently have a Losi Micro Rock Crawler, but I don't drive it and I'm trying to sell it. The Axials look more fun. I think you may have convinced me to go with what I like - the C10. Does the Deadbolt have more forward weight bias with the longer links in the rear?
 
Since I have been designing parts for these chassis for a while now, I think I can break down the key differences to what is important.

1) All three have the same wheelbase within .5mm
2) The Deadbolt has 10mm shorter links up front and 10mm longer links in the rear.
3) The Jeep and the C10 have a ESC/RX mount that is lower than the deadbolt by a few mm.

Personally, of the three and keeping the stock chassis, I like the Deadbolt the best for performance simply because everything is shifted forward by 10mm and you can get the CoG pretty low with just a few parts.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/micro-scale-rigs/612126-mod19rc-scx24-deadbolt-build.html
 
Since I have been designing parts for these chassis for a while now, I think I can break down the key differences to what is important.

1) All three have the same wheelbase within .5mm
2) The Deadbolt has 10mm shorter links up front and 10mm longer links in the rear.
3) The Jeep and the C10 have a ESC/RX mount that is lower than the deadbolt by a few mm.

Personally, of the three and keeping the stock chassis, I like the Deadbolt the best for performance simply because everything is shifted forward by 10mm and you can get the CoG pretty low with just a few parts.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/micro-scale-rigs/612126-mod19rc-scx24-deadbolt-build.html


Just when I thought I was set on the C10 and expert goes and has me reconsidering.

Can you put the 10mm shorter front links and 10mm longer rear links on the C10 and still have the tires line up with the body? I'm guessing no.
 
I think that would shift the body (or the wheels rather) unless you're fabbing up new mounts.

I found out the front shock towers/body mount is different from the Deadbolt to the Jeep because my forward battery tray only works with the Deadbolt.
 
I think that would shift the body (or the wheels rather) unless you're fabbing up new mounts.

I found out the front shock towers/body mount is different from the Deadbolt to the Jeep because my forward battery tray only works with the Deadbolt.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. And that probably explains why the shock towers/body mounts are different.
 
@JatoTheRipper, I think your GF needs a Deadbolt, and you need a Chevy. Problem solved. :lmao:

Ha! I like the way you think. I bought her a Mini-Z buggy. She drove it once for about 2 minutes. To be fair, I only drove mine about 5 times though. AAA batteries suck.
 
Just when I thought I was set on the C10 and expert goes and has me reconsidering.

Can you put the 10mm shorter front links and 10mm longer rear links on the C10 and still have the tires line up with the body? I'm guessing no.

Yeah, you are kind of stuck unless you want to go and fab up some custom bumper and body mounts to make up for the offset.
 
Yeah, you are kind of stuck unless you want to go and fab up some custom bumper and body mounts to make up for the offset.

Relatively cheap to convert from a C10 to a Deadbolt or vice versa though I'm sure.
 
It is relatively cheap, but you end up having to buy whole groups of parts/sub assemblies to get the few bits you need.
 
It's better just to get a whole second crawler so you have 2 times the fun haha

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