SCX10 ii builders kit issues

[christ0r]

Hi all, first post of many.

I have been lurking for a few weeks now on and off before I took the plunge into buying a crawler. I'm not new to RC but its been a while since I last built/raced them, 1/10th scale touring cars. Have a couple of OG XRay T1's, if anyone knows what they are lol ... yes, I'm that old but still a kid at heart! Anywho....

I spent a few nights last week building up my SCX10 ii builders kit, happy with the whole procedure in building it but the more I look at it the more I'm not happy with the finished article. Let me explain but beforehand forgive me if I mix up passenger side/drivers side, I'm from the UK (Belfast, Northern Ireland to be precise) and we drive on the right hand side of the vehicle. So from here on I will refer to either or in US terms. Drivers side being the left.

Starting with the front. I have a strange lean going on with drivers side. Tonight I checked that all my link lengths were OK, they weren't. Fixed that issue but the same problem persists. Front and rear!

Moving onto the rear. The drivers side rear shock also seemed to rub/foul on the shock tower causing travel issues. I *seem* to have this fixed after loosening and re positioning it after I also fitted the correct length lower right link, the one I had fitted originally was only 1mm shorter. Again, still have that gangsta lean going on. Not as bad as the front mind you.

Not sure whether the lean issue is directly related to having ALL the electronics placed on the drivers side, and the fact the motor is also off centre to the drivers side too causing the lean due to added weight but I cant see this being the case, surely??

Still at the rear. Not sure if I am being anal about this or would it bother you too??... The central (left to right) position of the chassis compared to the diff housing (pumpkin as you guys call it) does not appear to be in line/central with each other whether the suspension is at full compression or it is at resting height (no sag/droop). It appears to be around 3mm off centre (to the left) which I also believe is/was causing the shock to foul/rub on the shock tower. It also means I drilled the rear body mount holes in the shell (Proline 4runner) unevenly :roll:. I had put this down to the shell not being symmetrical but I since discovered the problems outlined.

I have a few other questions in relation to suspension but they can wait until I get these issues sorted out as these are priority before I go any further.

Sorry for the long winded first post but I really hope you guys can help me out as right now I'm not "over the moon" about my recent expensive "toy".

 

[Druxus]

Couple of things come to mind.

Are you sure all your shocks are the same length?
Do all of you shocks have the spring cup at the bottom?
Not sure how soft the springs are on a builder's kit, but I guess everything on one side could skew it one way. You can use the adjustable collars at the top to add some preload to the spring.

Are all the springs the same spring rate? If not maybe you have 2 soft ones on the driver's side.

 

[mikemcE]

Measure, Measure, Measure.

If one link or shock is .5mm longer or shorter, you will lean. You might want to add a small 1mm spacer between the shock and towers.

top links, lower links both have to be the same, also if the panhead is long or short, lean occurs

 

[Mike Flea]

When you can, post up some pics from different angles, helps us to help you if we can see the issue.

 

[Ragenwraith]

I'm thinking shock springs are the cause of the lean...I watched a Youtube from Harley Designs on free modifications that you can do on an Axial Deadbolt. He moved the shock springs around as the fronts were stiffer than the rears as it came from the factory so to speak, he put softer up front, stiffer on the rear...I believe there is paint marks on the respective spring, grey is medium and white is soft. Look close at each end of the spring to identify the color. The instruction manual has the part number listed by it on the page that shows the exploded view of the shock assembly, then look at the parts list page for the shock number and you will see the difference in the spring rate.

Hope this helps