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SCX-10 needs updated.

xjman

Rock Crawler
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
929
Location
In the basement
I've got a SCX 10 I picked up some years ago and beat to death for a while. I got side tracked when I killed and and started messing with some 1/5 scale stuff and finally made my way back to the truck.

Basically as it sits it is a rolling chassis. No electronics, beat plastic parts. I see they now make a new version, with newer transmission, non plastic linkages, sleeker new axles. Is any of that direct swap? If not it isn't a concern.

My real targets are links, axles, shocks, maybe tires, and electronics.

What are you guys using for water resistant/proof setups. I was going old school and wrapping my ESC and battery in a balloon and sealing the end with silicone. I would also like to go brushless this time around. I typically float around 55 or 45t motors, for the torque, control, battery life. I'd like to find a comparable brushless. I've been messing with gas stuff so long now, I've not kept up with anything on the electric side of things.

As far as the mechanical parts go, I've used various 1.9" tires this set the RC4WD IROC's seem as nice as the others, but if there is something out there that looks just as nice that performs better I'll be willing to slap them on. Mainly forest floor type stuff with a few creek beds.

Do we have vendors that sell link kits now or are the axial brand ones the really only option, I thought about making a set at work, but I run a lathe 7 days a week and would just like to avoid spending any more time doing it. What about shocks you guys like? Over the years I've tried several brands, and the best I've ever had were stock team associated plastic bodies. They wont work for this application, so what is your favorite?

As far as the axles, I've replaced the rear one a couple times as I've stripped it out, or broken one of the shafts. Are the newer ones any more durable, or is it worth looking at an rc4wd setup?

I'd like to make this fairly scale this time around and not RTR scale. I've had huge failures in the past, so figure why not try to fail a little less this time.

TL:DR

My SCX10 has been shelved for a while. Looking for your preferences of 1.9" tires, stock length links (including steering), shocks, and a brushless equivalent for a 55-45 turn motor with matching water resistant speed control.

Any opinions welcomed.
 
Links: You can make your own with all thread, revo rod ends, and 1/4" stainless brake line. There are several vendors here that sell titanium or stainless links (Vanquish, R2J, RC4x4 Stainless, Incision, SSD). Titanium is obviously much lighter but more expensive. I personally wouldnt waste my time with aluminum links. Especially Axial's.

Shocks: Pro-Line Scalers are pretty good, but in my experience they still leak a bit. They are also expensive. GMade 93mm diaphragm shocks are great, but a bit large and spring selection is limited. RC4WD's King shocks are sexy but aside from that, I havent heard much good about them and therefore have never run them. A lot of people use the Traxxas big bores.

If brushless is the route you want to go, you need sensored brushless for crawling. I wouldnt run my ESC in a balloon due to heat. I either buy waterproofed electronics or do it myself. The proper way to do it yourself is to remove them from the case and put on a couple coats of conformal coating on the board. Holmes Hobbies will waterproof his ESCs for you, or you can find others that are already waterproofed. The big brands (Castle and Tekin) now offer waterproof brushless ESCs with impressive specs and powerful BECs. The Mamba X will set you back around $140 but the Tekin RX4 is going to be around $200. If you stick with brushed, you can get a good waterproof ESC for $40-80.

The only sensored brushless motors that I have ran are Tekins (2300 and 3100kv Roc 412s and a 3500kv Pro 4 HD) but there are lower priced options available. Also those will need to be waterproofed. Holmes Hobbies has his own motors that are supposed to be excellent and he offers waterproofing for them too. Personally, I would go with 2700-3300 kv for a trail rig.
 
Thanks for the reply.

I'll avoid the axial ones then. Yeah I can make a set no problem, I was just looking for a "nicer looking" option.

Yeah, I had a HH motor a long while ago, I'll go check his stuff out. I never really thought about the heat aspect. It wasn't anything that I ever considered an issue from the lower draw from the higher turn motors. I ran my castle esc in a baloon for many years. It survived. Quite a many years. Do they still have the castle link where you can adjust throttle curve and reverse %? I know most radios can do that, but I've always liked their interface over fiddling with my futaba menu.
 
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