This project was to see how far a Redcat RS10 could be modified to act more like a comp rig BUT without spending more than $250 total (including radio!). Impossible? Nope.
After many mods and a lot of reworking it has become a VERY capable rig. The biggest change/improvement was the front/rear dig using the stock Lansu radio. I wasn't easy to figure out, but it works very well. If fact, there have been no issues at all with it.
I'll go through the mods quickly and then focus more on the radio changes in detail towards the end.
Here's the price breakdown:
(1) Redcat RS10 w/radio - $160 shipped
(1) additional Redcat ESC (for dual ESC DIG, same as stock ESC) - $40 shipped
(1) Tower pro MG946R high torque servo (stock servos died quickly) - $22 shipped
(1) set of stick on lead weights (9oz. total, 4.5oz in each front wheel) – $3 LHS
(1) 5000mAh battery (heavy, but my son drives it forever!) - $25 shipped
Total - $250
So here it is:
Body was lowered and trimmed and wheelbase was shortened to about 12":
Tires have been sipped (every other set of lugs removed) and the foams are "star" cut:
The chassis was narrowed at the bottom (same width at the top) and the electronics tray was lowered:
Added dual ESC's and relocated the switches, antenna, etc.
You'll also notice channels 1 & 3 go to the ESC's and channel 2 goes to the steering servo (more on that in a minute...):
Above the link BTA steering! A very worthwhile mod. Everything used to do this mod (links, rod ends, etc.) came from leftover parts from the rear steering. The tie-rod does not rub the lower links even though it may look like it does:
Lots of steering now. About 40 degrees worth! The narrowed chassis helps keep the lower links inward for more tire clearance. In order for this to work without the dogbones jamming all the time, I had to stack/glue small 3mm washers inside the dogbone drive cups within the axle. This takes up the play and pushes the dogbones outward towards the tire keeping the dogbones engaged into the drive cup at the wheel during a full turn. They have not jammed since:
Rear steer lockout. Again, everything used to do this mod (links, rod ends, etc.) came from leftover parts from the rear steering. The lockout links used to be the old tie-rod:
Motor wires had to be moved/re-soldered for tire clearance. Notice the tie-rod has a slight bend at each end to clear the gear housing at full turn:
The chassis is about ½" narrower at the bottom and is the stock width at the top (just wide enough at the bottom for the battery). This was a must do for tire clearance:
The shocks are mounted using the same bolt that secures the upper chassis support bar. After playing with this a lot, it seems that this gives it the perfect ride height and articulation. I tried to mount the stock shocks on the axle as others have, but a severe lack of front tire clearance quickly ended that mod:
Speaking of articulation... It's about 60 degrees or so. You can see the "S" bend in the lower links here. This gives it more clearance while allowing the stock shocks/mounts to still work:
Ok, now on to the radio.
You probably noticed above that channels 1 & 3 go to the ESC's and channel 2 goes to the steering servo on the receiver. "So how does that possibly work" you might ask?
Well, it dawned on me one day that since the stock radio already mixes channels 1 & 3 for steering using the 3rd channel button, why can't I somehow set it up to mix them for throttle instead without an expensive hack which would put me over budget? Well, let's open it up and find out how:
So, it had the capability to mix and then cycle through the various mixes, BUT, it's for the steering which doesn't help me out with dual ESC dig. I investigated further. If I plugged the steering into channel 2 and the ESC's into channels 1 & 3 it would work, BUT my steering wheel operated the ESC's and the throttle trigger operated the steering. This of course would not work.
Then I decided to try something. There are two potentiometers (pots) in the radio, one for the steering and one for the throttle. Their job is to supply a voltage into each radio channel relative to their position. So, since I wanted to use the pre-programmed mix of channels 1 & 3 for my ESC's but I didn't want the steering wheel to control my ESC's, then all I need to do was to solder the steering pot into channel 2 and solder the throttle pot into channel 1. I now had dual ESC DIG control with a $30 radio with no hack!
It looks like this:
A lot of things changed on the radio now but I got used to it. Channel 1 & 3 trims, D/R, etc. will affect the ESC's and channel 2 trim, D/R, etc. will affect the steering. It's a little weird at first, but I got used to it quickly. I had to set up the channel directions, trims, D/R, EPA, etc. to get the wheels to turn at the same rate and top speed. It was easy overall.
The settings I'm using at this point:
When you first turn on the radio it will power only the front ESC (steering mix default) so you have to press the 3rd channel button once to activate 4WD. Then off you go!
Here are the four modes that this modification achieves with the 3rd channel button:
The mode is indicated with the LCD display (once used for the steering) so you know where you are in the mix at any time!
So, for $250 you CAN have a rig with dual ESC DIG with a radio!! "thumbsup"
After many mods and a lot of reworking it has become a VERY capable rig. The biggest change/improvement was the front/rear dig using the stock Lansu radio. I wasn't easy to figure out, but it works very well. If fact, there have been no issues at all with it.
I'll go through the mods quickly and then focus more on the radio changes in detail towards the end.
Here's the price breakdown:
(1) Redcat RS10 w/radio - $160 shipped
(1) additional Redcat ESC (for dual ESC DIG, same as stock ESC) - $40 shipped
(1) Tower pro MG946R high torque servo (stock servos died quickly) - $22 shipped
(1) set of stick on lead weights (9oz. total, 4.5oz in each front wheel) – $3 LHS
(1) 5000mAh battery (heavy, but my son drives it forever!) - $25 shipped
Total - $250
So here it is:
Body was lowered and trimmed and wheelbase was shortened to about 12":
Tires have been sipped (every other set of lugs removed) and the foams are "star" cut:
The chassis was narrowed at the bottom (same width at the top) and the electronics tray was lowered:
Added dual ESC's and relocated the switches, antenna, etc.
You'll also notice channels 1 & 3 go to the ESC's and channel 2 goes to the steering servo (more on that in a minute...):
Above the link BTA steering! A very worthwhile mod. Everything used to do this mod (links, rod ends, etc.) came from leftover parts from the rear steering. The tie-rod does not rub the lower links even though it may look like it does:
Lots of steering now. About 40 degrees worth! The narrowed chassis helps keep the lower links inward for more tire clearance. In order for this to work without the dogbones jamming all the time, I had to stack/glue small 3mm washers inside the dogbone drive cups within the axle. This takes up the play and pushes the dogbones outward towards the tire keeping the dogbones engaged into the drive cup at the wheel during a full turn. They have not jammed since:
Rear steer lockout. Again, everything used to do this mod (links, rod ends, etc.) came from leftover parts from the rear steering. The lockout links used to be the old tie-rod:
Motor wires had to be moved/re-soldered for tire clearance. Notice the tie-rod has a slight bend at each end to clear the gear housing at full turn:
The chassis is about ½" narrower at the bottom and is the stock width at the top (just wide enough at the bottom for the battery). This was a must do for tire clearance:
The shocks are mounted using the same bolt that secures the upper chassis support bar. After playing with this a lot, it seems that this gives it the perfect ride height and articulation. I tried to mount the stock shocks on the axle as others have, but a severe lack of front tire clearance quickly ended that mod:
Speaking of articulation... It's about 60 degrees or so. You can see the "S" bend in the lower links here. This gives it more clearance while allowing the stock shocks/mounts to still work:
Ok, now on to the radio.
You probably noticed above that channels 1 & 3 go to the ESC's and channel 2 goes to the steering servo on the receiver. "So how does that possibly work" you might ask?
Well, it dawned on me one day that since the stock radio already mixes channels 1 & 3 for steering using the 3rd channel button, why can't I somehow set it up to mix them for throttle instead without an expensive hack which would put me over budget? Well, let's open it up and find out how:
So, it had the capability to mix and then cycle through the various mixes, BUT, it's for the steering which doesn't help me out with dual ESC dig. I investigated further. If I plugged the steering into channel 2 and the ESC's into channels 1 & 3 it would work, BUT my steering wheel operated the ESC's and the throttle trigger operated the steering. This of course would not work.
Then I decided to try something. There are two potentiometers (pots) in the radio, one for the steering and one for the throttle. Their job is to supply a voltage into each radio channel relative to their position. So, since I wanted to use the pre-programmed mix of channels 1 & 3 for my ESC's but I didn't want the steering wheel to control my ESC's, then all I need to do was to solder the steering pot into channel 2 and solder the throttle pot into channel 1. I now had dual ESC DIG control with a $30 radio with no hack!
It looks like this:
A lot of things changed on the radio now but I got used to it. Channel 1 & 3 trims, D/R, etc. will affect the ESC's and channel 2 trim, D/R, etc. will affect the steering. It's a little weird at first, but I got used to it quickly. I had to set up the channel directions, trims, D/R, EPA, etc. to get the wheels to turn at the same rate and top speed. It was easy overall.
The settings I'm using at this point:
When you first turn on the radio it will power only the front ESC (steering mix default) so you have to press the 3rd channel button once to activate 4WD. Then off you go!
Here are the four modes that this modification achieves with the 3rd channel button:
- 4WD
- 4WD opposed (front/rear wheels turn in opposite directions, likely not used)
- Front DIG
- Rear DIG
The mode is indicated with the LCD display (once used for the steering) so you know where you are in the mix at any time!
So, for $250 you CAN have a rig with dual ESC DIG with a radio!! "thumbsup"
