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Proline Chevy K-10 on Phoenix

Out on the trails.

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Don't know what magic they performed at Vanquish, but this rig's really stable on difficult terrain.

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For those wondering, this is the crawler course at Markham State Park in Sunrise, FL.

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I've been intrigued by 3D printers for a while because of the possibilities they open up for custom builds. I finally took the plunge and bought a Bambu Lab Carbon X1, a printer which has taken 3D printers (at this price point at least) to a whole new speed and versatility level. Matt at SBG (aka imthatguy) also recently traded his trusty old Prusa for a Bambu.

There is of course the "minor" :shock: matter of learning CAD as I want to do more than just print other people's designs, so starting with a software called Shapr3D been slowly working my way up to designing simple parts to build my CAD skills.

The spacer I had originally hand-crafted for the Chevy K-10 body works well enough, but frankly I always thought the aesthetics could be improved. Below is the original and the new 3D printed version.

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A rollbar was added to dress-up the rear of the cab and well.... provide protection against rollovers :mrgreen:

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This was printed in carbon fiber reinforced PETG and while the part is totally functional, I might reprint it in PLA CF as I'm not thrilled with the surface finish on the roll bar portion.

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Those wanting to print one of your own can download the file on Thingiverse here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6038717
 
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Nice choice in the 3d printer ... one heck of a machine you got and learning CAD is a great skill and endless possibilities for the hobby. This build is just going to get better ... Playing around with the way you slice your model and the orientation of your print will help with those surfaces that you don't want ... I try to print flat surfaces face down and round surfaces up ... I also try not to use so many supports and keep the faces of objects that are to display facing up. Its a T&E curve you will have to play around. printing the same object in different orientations will give different finish and strength.
 
Nice choice in the 3d printer ... one heck of a machine you got and learning CAD is a great skill and endless possibilities for the hobby. This build is just going to get better ... Playing around with the way you slice your model and the orientation of your print will help with those surfaces that you don't want ... I try to print flat surfaces face down and round surfaces up ... I also try not to use so many supports and keep the faces of objects that are to display facing up. Its a T&E curve you will have to play around. printing the same object in different orientations will give different finish and strength.

Thanks, I'm happy with X1, I almost pulled the trigger on the new Prusa, but when I realized how much faster the X1 was, it seemed like a no-brainer. The roll bar was printed face down on the printer bed, but I like your idea to flip it 180 degrees so that the side exposed to "public view" is not encumbered by the support structure. "thumbsup"
 
Looks fantastic. Did you cut a hole in the inner fenders to get the body post to fit?

Thanks Valor, and sorry for the late reply. I'm not getting notifications on this thread for some reason. Anyway, no holes needed to be cut in the inner fenders to get the body post to fit. All that's required is to SWAP the right and left shock mounts. By doing so, the mounting location for the posts lines up with the pre-made openings in the inner fenders, see pic below.

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Thanks Valor, and sorry for the late reply. I'm not getting notifications on this thread for some reason. Anyway, no holes needed to be cut in the inner fenders to get the body post to fit. All that's required is to SWAP the right and left shock mounts. By doing so, the mounting location for the posts lines up with the pre-made openings in the inner fenders, see pic below.

WKaa8Jm.jpg

Thanks "thumbsup" I removed the inner fenders to utilize the mounts but I will reverse the shock mounts instead and reinstall the liners.
 
Excellent post and very timely/helpful for me. I have the RTR on it's way for a build base and would like other cab options with the stock bed cage. I'm curious as to which other cabs will fit. Hopefully The RCC crew will also post up.
 
Excellent post and very timely/helpful for me. I have the RTR on it's way for a build base and would like other cab options with the stock bed cage. I'm curious as to which other cabs will fit. Hopefully The RCC crew will also post up.

Glad, this thread might be of service, that's the beauty of forums! "thumbsup" Pretty much any cab only body will work with this setup, the only changes would likely be a slightly wider or thinner spacer to get the front wheel wells to line up - though, even there, one can always fudge a few mm by widening the wheel wells in the needed direction (I did).

Regardless, if you need a spacer of a different thickness just give me a shout, it's a pretty simple mod to the file. Even if you don't have a 3D printer you can get the part by sending the file to one of various commercial outfits. I've used JawsTec https://www.jawstec.com/3d-printing-services/and found there service top-notch and prices reasonable.
 
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Anyone know the reasoning why Vanquish reversed the front shock mount to cover up the body post with the inner fenders?
 
Anyone know the reasoning why Vanquish reversed the front shock mount to cover up the body post with the inner fenders?


I think to allow access to the top shock screw without having to remove the inner fenders


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think to allow access to the top shock screw without having to remove the inner fenders


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That makes sense. I thought it was to dissuade people from running a different body other than the ultra expensive Phoenix body. :ror:
 
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Decided to ditch the expensive and not so pretty Phoenix body. Ended up mounting and painting a PL Jeep body I had sitting for over a year that was suppose to go on the Basecamp. Took a pic with my son's wheels mounted up from his TRX4 Sport.
 
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