• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Progress II

well the carbon fiber just can't hold up to my hard driving
torn the front upper link out of the Chassis
not once but twice....
so I'm going to try 1/16" aluminum (suggested by Jake Wright)
I'll be sending them out to my drivers this week.
the chassis performed well... the link geometry and shock adjustments give this thing a ton of set-ups.

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8450.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8450.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8457.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8457.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8459.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8459.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8440.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8440.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8419.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8419.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8381.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8381.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/?action=view&current=IMG_8382.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll151/ZoSo666x/WC%203-3-12/IMG_8382.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Last edited:
Bummer to hear that. Could staggering the link holes a bit or spacing them a hair farther apart (to provide more material around the holes) or even the simple use of a flat washer on oth sides of the CF have prevented this?

I was really excited to see more CF chassis options out on the market and would think some minor changes would allow you to keep the CF in favor of just pushing an aluminum version to the market.
 
Say Dave, not quite sure what you meant by going to 1/16 aluminum. But how about using the 1/16 aluminum for a bolt-on doubler? Make four small rectangular plates that match the CF in the front link area. They should be just long enough to fit 3 holes of your pattern. Then use like washers on both sides of the CF. The upper link goes in the middle hole and put a short nut and bolt in the two end holes. That spreads your load out over a much larger area. And does very little to overall weight.

You may have to fuss with it to get everything to clear. Like use flatheads for the end bolts if buttonheads hit the rod end. Or make the plates longer to grab holes further away, etc. But the principle is something we do in missiles and spacecraft all the time to get localized strength upgrade without making the whole thing heavier.
 
Say Dave, not quite sure what you meant by going to 1/16 aluminum. But how about using the 1/16 aluminum for a bolt-on doubler? Make four small rectangular plates that match the CF in the front link area. They should be just long enough to fit 3 holes of your pattern. Then use like washers on both sides of the CF. The upper link goes in the middle hole and put a short nut and bolt in the two end holes. That spreads your load out over a much larger area. And does very little to overall weight.

You may have to fuss with it to get everything to clear. Like use flatheads for the end bolts if buttonheads hit the rod end. Or make the plates longer to grab holes further away, etc. But the principle is something we do in missiles and spacecraft all the time to get localized strength upgrade without making the whole thing heavier.

Damn beat me to it bill, I saw the chassis in person and it showed real promise.
 
I think he meant switch from CF to 1/16" aluminum. And if light weight is a goal, then the addition of 4 doublers plus 8 additional screws and 8 lock nuts would seem excessive no? I think staggering /spacing the holes a little more or just sandwiching the link hole in use with 2 washers will solve it.
 
Bummer to hear that. Could staggering the link holes a bit or spacing them a hair farther apart (to provide more material around the holes) or even the simple use of a flat washer on oth sides of the CF have prevented this?

I was really excited to see more CF chassis options out on the market and would think some minor changes would allow you to keep the CF in favor of just pushing an aluminum version to the market.

I know the CF was damaged in the cutting, but I thought I'd give her a try anyway
the aluminum version will be for testing
I will make a CF version or maybe Applications - Curv® - Propex Fabrics

Say Dave, not quite sure what you meant by going to 1/16 aluminum. But how about using the 1/16 aluminum for a bolt-on doubler? Make four small rectangular plates that match the CF in the front link area. They should be just long enough to fit 3 holes of your pattern. Then use like washers on both sides of the CF. The upper link goes in the middle hole and put a short nut and bolt in the two end holes. That spreads your load out over a much larger area. And does very little to overall weight.



You may have to fuss with it to get everything to clear. Like use flatheads for the end bolts if buttonheads hit the rod end. Or make the plates longer to grab holes further away, etc. But the principle is something we do in missiles and spacecraft all the time to get localized strength upgrade without making the whole thing heavier.


thanks wam I'll try the "beef up mod" on the next CF I cut

Damn beat me to it bill, I saw the chassis in person and it showed real promise.

thanks Gerr
I just need to get some more testing done
...so I'll send the Aluminum version out to my drivers for testing

the "curv" material looks interesting
 
Last edited:
I think he meant switch from CF to 1/16" aluminum. And if light weight is a goal, then the addition of 4 doublers plus 8 additional screws and 8 lock nuts would seem excessive no? I think staggering /spacing the holes a little more or just sandwiching the link hole in use with 2 washers will solve it.

The entire mod could be done for about 1/8 oz aluminum and four very short screws w/nuts. Messing with the CF holes could make some improvement...but it did break twice on it's maiden outing. So it all depends on how much more strength is needed. Also, the doublers will work with existing sideplates if he made several.
 
I think photos would help. It could have been as simple as holes that were to big, as CR will suck into a drill bit a tad.

And I still think washers on both sides are a better solution than doublers.
 
The entire mod could be done for about 1/8 oz aluminum and four very short screws w/nuts. Messing with the CF holes could make some improvement...but it did break twice on it's maiden outing. So it all depends on how much more strength is needed. Also, the doublers will work with existing sideplates if he made several.

sounds good ... I drive the rig a lot harder than most people
I try to break it...and when I can't break it....It's good to go!!!!
Do you know anything about this CURV material?
Applications - Curv® - Propex Fabrics#
 
Is it possible that you just used a low grade CF? The weave pattern on the chassis suggests that it is not a high quality CF. in RC stuff, the tighter the CF weave pattern, the stronger and higher quality it is. I bashed the hell out of my 1/16" cf berg this weekend with no problems at all.
But I did have another chassis that used a material tha looked almost identical in weave pattern as yours and it failed rather quickly.
 
Is it possible that you just used a low grade CF? The weave pattern on the chassis suggests that it is not a high quality CF. in RC stuff, the tighter the CF weave pattern, the stronger and higher quality it is. I bashed the hell out of my 1/16" cf berg this weekend with no problems at all.
But I did have another chassis that used a material tha looked almost identical in weave pattern as yours and it failed rather quickly.

I agree, the material has too large of a weave
I was trying to use some scape material from a friend
...to make the chassis more affordable...but that didn't work out:evil:
I'll try a couple other vendors with a tighter weave
 
Is it possible that you just used a low grade CF? The weave pattern on the chassis suggests that it is not a high quality CF. in RC stuff, the tighter the CF weave pattern, the stronger and higher quality it is. I bashed the hell out of my 1/16" cf berg this weekend with no problems at all.
But I did have another chassis that used a material tha looked almost identical in weave pattern as yours and it failed rather quickly.

I saw it when it broke the second time, it broke purely due to the damaged cf around the holes, basically it just pulled through the weave because the resin was compromised. It was a kevlar weave I believe Dave said. In this instance i do not think there would have been any saving it but in the future the sandwich idea to reinforce the holes being used should be plenty strong.
 
Just so you know, a lot of people have a slightly false impression of carbon fiber. It got it's excellent reputation for strength and stiffness in layup designs. Custom designs for a load-carrying applications where you choose how many fibers to put in which directions.

But this is just generic sheet. Since it just has a light cross-pattern of fibers, it's not particularly strong compared to it's custom brothers. And as you found out, the edges are particularly weak because there are so few fibers between the hole and edge of the sheet. If possible provide more edge distance for the holes in the future.

Not saying CF is bad stuff. It just doesn't always meet high expectations. Be sure to seal cut edges with CA (superglue) or something to help keep the edges intact.

BTW, show of hands -- how many people knew that carbon fiber is not lighter than Delrin? In fact it's slightly heavier. But much stiffer...a good thing. It's funny how many people want to replace Delrin with the same thickness CF to save a ton of weight.
 
well the Aluminum version has held up great
I beat her very hard at the SoCal Regionals last weekend
and she not only survived but took low score on two of the courses

nice and lightweight 2.3 oz....sococrawler's weighed Aluminum version

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad89/solanocountyrc/81504d40.jpg

I finally changed back to a body....DiverDown

0623021114.jpg
 
Last edited:
That lid makes me wanna get a haircut...if I HAD hair that is. Don't you laugh Dave...you & I BOTH run the chrome dome. Of course in my case...Im just taller than my hair. "thumbsup"

Glad that chassis' holdin up & congrats on your Regionals performance. Ya done good Mr. Budd.

J.D.
 
hey I'm waiting on this guy to paint my lid
two rattle cans and some edge tape....... I got what I got
Hope all is well
 
Back
Top