Panhard rod shifting axle

[ItsTyrex]

Just built a scx10 clone from parts I got and after installing the panhard rod is see that it's too short and was pulling the chassis to the passenger side.
After trying some washers I was able to get it as straight as I can but when I compress the shocks it is pulling the chassis to the driver side.
If I will make it shorter it will start pulling the chassis to the passenger side when it's uncompressed.

Any idea on what can I do?

Thanks, TYREX.

 

[Goro Majima]

Try to level out the panhard as much as possible. You can mount the shocks up higher if you can (might cause body rubbing), or add a spacer to the chassis side panhard mount. If you add the spacer, you'll have to add the same spacer on the drag link (servo horn side) to keep the 2 links even with each other.

 

[ItsTyrex]

Try to level out the panhard as much as possible. You can mount the shocks up higher if you can (might cause body rubbing), or add a spacer to the chassis side panhard mount. If you add the spacer, you'll have to add the same spacer on the drag link (servo horn side) to keep the 2 links even with each other.

What do you mean by spacer?
This is the setup rn:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/k8kkNiFB3DgbNUC56

Any suggestions?

 

[Goro Majima]

I see now. Are those extended shocks? That might be what started it.

Unfortunately you can't adjust the panhard angle as easy as adding a spacer like I mentioned (was thinking Element style).

 

[ItsTyrex]

I see now. Are those extended shocks? That might be what started it.

Unfortunately you can't adjust the panhard angle as easy as adding a spacer like I mentioned (was thinking Element style).

Those are 100mm, I thought about replacing to 90mm regardless due to the portals.

You think that will solve that?

 

[Goro Majima]

It should make an improvement for sure.

 

[ferp420]

the movement of the axle has to do with the fact that a lever when fixed on one end the other end will traval in a arch in this case the fixed point is the chassie and the axle end travals in a arch but since you only get alittle bit of the arch it basicly only moves back and forth

there is no way to stop it but you can minimize it

or you can go 4 link and servo on axle then theres no shift with 100mm shocks servo on axle and 4link is the best choice
on a 1:1 after so much lift they switch to hydrolic steering because the linkadge gets crazy out of wack the servo on axle is basicly the same thing

 

[ferp420]

and i think the upper panhard bar bracket is backwards
the upper mount should be outside the frame rails
the upper and lower mounts should be the same distance from the knuckle or as close as you can get
that would make the panhard bar longer and lessen the arch motion the axle will traval
but with those huge shocks thats still not enuff

 

[ItsTyrex]

and i think the upper panhard bar bracket is backwards
the upper mount should be outside the frame rails
the upper and lower mounts should be the same distance from the knuckle or as close as you can get
that would make the panhard bar longer and lessen the arch motion the axle will traval
but with those huge shocks thats still not enuff

The upper mount is part of the shock tower so I can't really swap it over.
The arch is not that noticable after I added some length to the panhard but it not perfect, I think I will eventually replace the shocks with 90mm ones .
Thanks for the information and knowledge, will remember it for future builds.

 

[ferp420]

The upper mount is part of the shock tower so I can't really swap it over.
The arch is not that noticable after I added some length to the panhard but it not perfect, I think I will eventually replace the shocks with 90mm ones .
Thanks for the information and knowledge, will remember it for future builds.

right on its a toy

the quarks are what make having different rigs fun

you can spend a bunch of money and or time and only make mild performance gains 3 links are what they are

 

[chevy42083]

The extreme basics... you want the panhard as long and as level as possible. This minimizes the swing. You do that by mounting it to the outside of the frame rail on one side and as close to the opposite end of the axle as possible. Looks like your kit angles the top mount location inward to minimize bump steer at the cost of adding axle swing.
You try to space it up on the axle side, and down on the frame side... as much as you can until level or you start hitting links/frame/servo. You can get tricky with curved end links... but it the imaginary line between the ball ends that matters, not the angle of the actual rod.
To avoid bump steer, you then want it to match the servo link in basically the same way. Any difference between the 2 shows as steering input through the suspension cycle. Some people mount the servo sideways against the frame in order to get the pivot point further to the outside.

Not sure about what interchangeable with the clones... but you could look into the shock towers that have the panhard mount straight down or to the outside of the frame. Thats kind of your biggest hang up right now.