Old-school Super Class build

[BaNZ]

I mean a VERY old-school. Like in the beginning of times. Around 2005 I guess.

I had opportunity to buy ACME Crawler King 2.2 (http://www.option-no1.com/catalog/pdf/A6004.pdf) for dirt cheap.


Check gallery for actual pics. https://www.imagebam.com/view/GAB0FQ (still waiting to receive this creature).

So I has bought it and I'm planning to convert into Super Class version (http://www.option-no1.com/catalog/pdf/A6002.pdf), but wheels from original version is nowhere to be found (and it has poor performance), and I don't like stock Hummer body.

Currently I'm going to make it 600mm long as it was (feel free to persuade me not to do it) and put Clod Mudslingers on it for that-old-school-MT-clod-crawler-look, but(!) I have some doubts, as I want it to be able to crawl over things, so I put 3.8 Mudslingers in consideration too. But 40 series mudslinger doesn't have MT look at all.

So, guys, I'll be glad to hear how both version of mudslingerscompare between in terms of crawling performance! Consider it's application off course.

Also, please, suggest body and body style too.

I have no many ideas, but it should scream "retro-crawling-is-going-on" with its look. Lots of articulation, wheels, that don't fit in wheels arches, axles, that almost don't fit body dimensions, and so on.

 

[BaNZ]

So here it is!


Apparently it's stock all around. Shocks, wheels, ESC (which works) and even motors.


2.2 acme king crawler stock wheels with 2.2 proline MOAB tires. (I wonder if it original)


It barely fits on huge knuckle!


New parts to throw in! (I think some of them will be changed during the process)


These knuckles HUMONGOUS!


And the rear one.

(that's how you block 4ws )

Just look at this axle!


Let's disassemble it and peek inside!

Here is the worm drive with it's thrust ball bearings (on both sides).


Place where 2nd bearing residing.


Motor hole mounts has ellipsoid shape so mesh of worm gear can be adjusted.

 

[BaNZ]

Just a couple of gears inside.
(all these aluminum parts is milled in one way or another)

Worm driven gear (looks good so far).


Just look at the thickness! It's 7mm thick pipe wall!!!



That's it for now. However, I changed couple of links.

 

[BaNZ]

Here comes the trouble.

(well, it's an easy fix, just put 1mm thick washer on motor side)


Aaaand here it is!

A bit of cable management.

Got to sort out wheels, shocks and body.

 

[Gula]

Vintage! I like it.

 

[BaNZ]

Wiring complete.


Front axle just for looks.


Very interesting options is coming regarding wheel axles. Gotta make pictures and write a lot of explanations next.

 

[grob23]

VERY old school! Well before my times... love it!

 

[BaNZ]

So, what I'm going to tell about axles. Original one was a bit damaged, so I planned to change them. But as occurred it has kinda strange dimensions. 6mm shaft and 4mm thread. With 14mm hex.

It's strange since 12mm hex has 5mm axle with 4mm thread in 1/10 scale, and 14(17) hex on 8mm axle with 5mm thread in 1/8 scale. (Or am I missing something? Feel free to correct me.) Change ball bearings accordingly.



Talking about balls. Ball on end of main axle (picture above) is 6mm diameter.

So standard (in some way) 5mm axles of 1/10 scale won't fit. See photo below.

(it won't fit because of axle pin thickness as well)

Original axle and Tamiya comparison

(they both on same level)

14mm hex vs 12mm hex

(12mm has pin of smaller diameter 2mm instead of 2.5mm)

On top of everything I bought 17mm RC4WD hex adapters for universal beadlock wheels, that has 5mm hole, so it leads to new fitment issues.

Original axle too loose...


or won't fit at all


While 1/10 scale 5mm axle fits perfectly

(oh, well... but it's possible to find axle with solid 5mm part up to the thread)

Aaaaaaaaand some ball bearing comparison


(from left to right)
12x6x4mm (original from this rig)
11x5x4mm (tamiya wheel bearing for 1/10 scale)
10x5x4mm (wheel bearing touring/drift 1/10 scale)

So I see a couple of ways to fit 17mm hex wheels (and replace damaged wheel axles)

- buy 5mm axles, compatible bearings (12x5x4mm), 12mm hexes, adapters 12to17mm hexes, modify necessary parts accordingly.
- buy 8mm axles from Savage Flux, compatible bearings (12x8x3.5mm), 17mm hpi hexes, no modification needed (but there is risk, that axles will be too long and it's cup won't fit in axle housing).

If somebody will tell me, where I can get direct replacement for original axles (and 17mm hexes for it) I'll follow this way gladly.

 

[Gula]

You may be able to adapt team losi lst axles. They are 6mm shaft all the way until the threaded portion. A 5mm threaded nut goes on the end.

You have the 17mm adapters I need. I initially bought 14mm thinking they would suffice. Want to trade? Lol.

Some older 1/8 buggies have 6mm axles iirc, one of my ofna buggies does at least.

 

[BaNZ]

Hey! Thanks for the info! As for trade I don't think that it worth the effort really. Besides I kinda want to build this rig in "unnecessary tough" style.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Thanks for sharing! This is before my time too but I always appreciate the look back.

 

[Gula]

Do you have a clodbuster stub axle? It is more "similar" to what youre looking for as a replacement. Its shaped just like that, 6mm shaft, but you will have to drill your own pin hole, and machine down the shoulder/thread to length. Or use the brass 12mm clod hex, and make spacers.

Shiny silver one is a tamiya tlt stub axle and the other one a clodbuster one.

 

[Gula]

You could possibly use clodbuster stub axles in your knuckles. Sure looks like it from here at least.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Nostalgia! Super cool!

 

[BaNZ]

Here comes the wheels!

(I'm gonna run them in this look since I need more generic wheels look than MT-style look).

Polished wheel adapters.


Hhh... hexes.


Too much force on thin 2mm pin, yeah?

(call me "matryoshka")