NOT a truggy, my RBK build

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

This is my first real-time build thread in hopes you guys can lmk what I’m doing wrong, right, or for ideas!
My goal is to build a tough, reliable, and SIMPLE crawler that also looks cool... otherwise, what’s the point???

I have a somewhat open budget that I’m trying to be strategical with (LOL!!).

Body:
HG P407 Hilux cab.
RC4WD - or - LOOPS cab back
CC Hand rear tube cage (temporary - more on that later)

Chassis:
SCX10II RBK
SSD Pro44 axles (w/assorted brass weights)
TRX4 GTS coilovers
SSD front shock towers
Bowhouse Design servo/battery tray (F’ng love this thing! I have it on my BOM)
Pit Bull Rock Beasts KK 4.45/113mm
Chanquish wheels

Electronics:
[edit] switched to HW/Quickrun Fusion FOC 2in1 Brushless motor & ESC (not using 1080 & Crawlmaster 540 Sport 13T for this build)
Power HD 25kg 7.4v servo
Ovonic 3s 2200mAh

I’m starting with the 12.3” WB to see how things line up and in hopes of keeping a low COG (we’ll see!). The CC Hand cage has shock mounts incorporated so I don’t see clearance issues? Might look goofy but I’m still waiting for the body and cage...
Once I confirm WB I’ll upgrade links, cross members, and steering as necessary

Here’s what I did on Labor Day... kit and axles were a joy to build!

I’m still waiting for the body, cage, and electronics...

With that said the real cage I want is from SMF Works. Found a pic of one w/custom shock mounts and sliders on their site and ordered it. THE NEXT DAY that same truck’s build thread [by noname0383] was bumped! It’s a great thread (your welcome)
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-scale-rigs/505705-starting-truggy.html


Also another great thread I found [by ebbet] Using similar cage and look I’m after [edit - your welcome]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx10-ii/588400-toyota-truggy.html


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[twade984]

Looks like a really good start. I also just installed the bow house servo mount and it is really nice.

I hate axial plastic on the 10.2, so I would suggest replacing all rod ends and any plastic pivot balls. And the shock hoops/pan hard mount. Plenty of options, I’ve been running cheap extra speed aluminum ones that have held up great.

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Looks like a really good start. I also just installed the bow house servo mount and it is really nice.

I hate axial plastic on the 10.2, so I would suggest replacing all rod ends and any plastic pivot balls. And the shock hoops/pan hard mount. Plenty of options, I’ve been running cheap extra speed aluminum ones that have held up great.

Thanks! I already switched out the front shock towers/panhard mount and rears will be replaced with the cage...

Theres some binding up front the Suspension has a hard time rebounding... could the plastic balls in the rod ends be doing this?


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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Got the CC Hand cage in and installed! Loving this already

Looks like I’ll be sticking with 12.3” WB.

Any recommendations on some heavy high clearance links?


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[twade984]

I’m also running Traxxas GTS shocks on my 10.2, and they didn’t work very good at first. They would compress but not return well. I searched here and found a post saying that the spacer between the shaft seals is too thick from the factory. I sanded mine down to about 2mm and now it works much better. I’m running stock 10.2 springs btw

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

I’m also running Traxxas GTS shocks on my 10.2, and they didn’t work very good at first. They would compress but not return well. I searched here and found a post saying that the spacer between the shaft seals is too thick from the factory. I sanded mine down to about 2mm and now it works much better. I’m running stock 10.2 springs btw

Exactly like mine.... hmmm????
The GTS shocks on my BOM work perfectly and both sets have never been opened (RTR takes offs).

I’ll try the 10.2 springs before I mod anything anything internally on the shocks. Thanks for the info


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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Since I’m still waiting for the body I decided to just use the one from my Sawback Yota which needed to be smoothed out for some “special” decals ;-)

Battle scars to be “smoothed” out

Some wet sanding later...

And then...

Not sure if I want to polish it out or refine this finish yet. But here she is mocked up.

Decided to try the Hobby Wing Fusion. So far in living room tests I like it...

Still trying to figure out why my front suspension doesn’t rebound when fully compressed and what links to buy?

Any suggestions??


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[318aye]

Love this build! Taking notes for my next one, always wanted to build a half-cut!

Shocks are a mystery to me as well fluid wise, but I think if you're looking for more rebound you generally leave a little air in the chamber when it approaches full compression?

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Love this build! Taking notes for my next one, always wanted to build a half-cut!

Shocks are a mystery to me as well fluid wise, but I think if you're looking for more rebound you generally leave a little air in the chamber when it approaches full compression?

Thanks man! Should have some updates soon...

Back during stadium truck/buggy days I would set the rebound by sealing the shock body with the shaft extended to the resting position I wanted. For some reason with crawlers I’m not getting as accurate results. For full rebound though I’d leave the shaft fully extended when sealing the shock body and this still works but I do make sure to get any air out. Air in the shock usually keeps it from fully cycling from my understanding.


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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Body mounted with ShrinkRC mounts.

Had it not taken 2 months for my new body to arrive I would have bought these earlier and saved myself a masssssive headache...

I got impatient waiting so I stole my Sawback Yota body (original HG P407) which had fewer mounting holes on the sides. OBVIOUSLY, as the cab back was curing to the body, the new one showed up :-/

A Terrorist “TAYOTA” and A (I can only hope) “FROD” options are available too :-D

This one has 700 holes that’ll work w/popular mounts made for scx10.2 (both Tamiya & RC4WD bodies)

The original body ^ doesn’t line up with anything accept for my f’ng Sawback build which is in pieces now as I figure out how to remove the cab back...

Body mounted with interior and parts to be installed next:

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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

I’m also running Traxxas GTS shocks on my 10.2, and they didn’t work very good at first. They would compress but not return well. I searched here and found a post saying that the spacer between the shaft seals is too thick from the factory. I sanded mine down to about 2mm and now it works much better. I’m running stock 10.2 springs btw

I'm hoping twade984 is still listening or someone can shed more light on this spacer... Stiffer springs didn't quite resolve the issue so I'll have to try something else.

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Bought a simple bumper from RC Addict website, painted it black, and changed to LURC scale hardware. It’s a rear bumper but I think it’s the same as the front, minus winch fairlead. I don’t plan on running a winch so I’m fine with that.

I need to bend the sides a bit to contour with the body more unless I decide to push it all the way in. If it’s pushed all the way in there’s nothing protecting the grill & headlights though...

Installed these eBay wheel rings which I think look brilliant!

I need to order more scale bolts from LURC M2x6mm I think? I forget...

And as seen below I think they look awesome. Some fender cutting was next after I had a few drinks. NOT my greatest moment lol

All in all this build has been the easiest and most satisfying so far. Actually I drove the truck yesterday but I’m still thawing out / drying off and editing my photos... but it’s good, REAL good ;-) more on that later!


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[twade984]

I'm hoping twade984 is still listening or someone can shed more light on this spacer... Stiffer springs didn't quite resolve the issue so I'll have to try something else.

Sorry, I just figured out how to auto subscribe to threads I post in, I lose track of threads easily.

While sanding the o-ring spacer to 2mm did improve function on my 10.2, they just never worked how I wanted them to. So I ended up selling them and putting on some enduro rtr shocks. I am very happy with them running 30wt and stock enduro springs.

Forgot to mention, this truck is looking good. I’m currently running the stock deadbolt body on mine, but the desire to try a hardbody is strong. Look forward to seeing more of this.

 

[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Sorry, I just figured out how to auto subscribe to threads I post in, I lose track of threads easily.

While sanding the o-ring spacer to 2mm did improve function on my 10.2, they just never worked how I wanted them to. So I ended up selling them and putting on some enduro rtr shocks. I am very happy with them running 30wt and stock enduro springs.

Forgot to mention, this truck is looking good. I’m currently running the stock deadbolt body on mine, but the desire to try a hardbody is strong. Look forward to seeing more of this.

No prob and thanks! This is my 3rd hard body build but the first one I plan on treating more like a lexan rig... If anything these bodies make you a better driver and the feeling of completing a complex line is double rewarding... I say do it!!!

Regarding the shocks I took mine for a shake down run in the pouring freezing rain and they seemed to be fine now? Still need to play with settings though


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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

Finished thawing out from Sunday’s test run and I absolutely love this rig! It’s so far from tuned as well, so it can only improve

All the added weight at the axles really keep it planted and the Quickrun Fusion 2-in-1 is so simple & awesome. It’s only 1800kv but it seems to check all the boxes on 3s.

I think I damaged my dx5 rugged in the rain and can’t get into the menu to try and adjust the overly (imho) complicated settings... which really sucks. My reverse is very punchy so I’m hoping I can sort it out via ESC settings. Other than that and some steering settings it performed great!

Still a lot to do:
Install Incision links
Install SSD high clearance steering links
Figure out what CI dual stage foams I need
Tune suspension
Play with settings on the esc
Find a nice fuel cell
Install lights (really don’t want to but I guess I need to?)
ALSO put on my “gold edition” Bruiser decals... LOL they’ll certainly add a “gaudy” factor but after some weathering I think they’ll work. :-D

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[VR6 BeelzeDub]

The decals didn’t fit correctly but I’m not sure that’s a bad thing, as you will see shortly.

For the passed few years each new build has improved. It’s partly dumb luck, partly RCCrawler (thanks everyone!) and partly my friends. There’s nothing crazy custom here and I wasn’t sure what the trade off between looks & performance was going to be...

Well after 8 hours and 2 x 2200 3s packs (yup 4 hours each!) I gotta say almost ZERO trade off, this thing just performs! I knew what I wanted and I know what’s left to do, so enough faffing about and let’s see some pictures!

I was running late cuz at the last minute I figured out a way to hack up the “Gold Edition” Bruiser decals for the cab sides. I’m quite chuffed with the results... I think it’s even more 80s Baja/cool s*** lol.

Apologies for the photo dump but below are the only pics before driving and showing the ill fitting decals. Thanks guys

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[twade984]

Looks really good

 

[addiemonster]

Absolutely sick build!

 

[lonleycreeper]

LOVE the Bruiser decals!


Screams 80's!

 

[RCPawel]

Hi, can you tell us the final weight of your truggy? Any overheating issues with the Fusion with lots of slow crawling? Thanks!