Scale Build
Rock Stacker
Thanks! I'll have to check it out. Even if it does make contact, your pic makes it look like a simple cut to fix the issue. But I think I'll just run with the stock tray for now.
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New To Crawling
- Thread starter Scale Build
- Start date
Thanks! I'll have to check it out. Even if it does make contact, your pic makes it look like a simple cut to fix the issue. But I think I'll just run with the stock tray for now.
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
Any thoughts on this battery? Is this high voltage thing new? I've only ever bought 7.4V Gen Ace batteries for my drift cars. If I'm not mistaken, the HW 1080 and the Savox servo can both run at 7.4V. If this battery is labeled as 11.1V, is there anything I need to do, or will the 1080 just do its thing? As for the 50C rating, I remember that punch being available right away for drifting, it was crucial. But would this make the truck jumpy with light throttle? Or does it just mean that the power could be readily punched IF needed.
Sorry for all the questions, but I know all this stuff with the Lipo's can be dangerous if you screw it up....trying to avoid that at all costs lol. I also found my FlySky B6 mini charger. I'm assuming it'll be fine for charging this battery?
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ga-b-50c-3300-3s1p-xt60t.htm
Sorry for all the questions, but I know all this stuff with the Lipo's can be dangerous if you screw it up....trying to avoid that at all costs lol. I also found my FlySky B6 mini charger. I'm assuming it'll be fine for charging this battery?
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ga-b-50c-3300-3s1p-xt60t.htm
Kingmeow
Quarry Creeper
No, this is not a HV (high voltage) lipo. It's not 7.4V because it's a 3S pack. Your old 7.4V packs is 2S. Each "S" or cell is 3.4V. So 3 x 3.4 = 11.1V.
The 1080 have handle 2S or 3S packs so you're good there. Yes, the "C" rating is how fast it can dump the current. The higher the C rating the more $$$. For crawler and go slow needs you don't really need 50C. Heck, 25C would work. And Gens Ace is a really good brand. I've had one pack for my airplanes that lasted almost 10 years before it croaked and airplanes will pull more current than a crawler. I can empty a 3S 2000 in 10 minutes and that's consider a slow plane.
A B6 charger (I don't think it's made by FlySky) can easily handle this. Note, the B6 was originally made by iMax and then SkyRC (I think same company) but it has been cloned by so many and some outright counterfeit, you don't know if you have the real McCoy. There are ways to tell but I don't know them off the top of my head. Either way, you should be good on the charger too.
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Scale Build
Rock Stacker
No, this is not a HV (high voltage) lipo. It's not 7.4V because it's a 3S pack. Your old 7.4V packs is 2S. Each "S" or cell is 3.4V. So 3 x 3.4 = 11.1V.
The 1080 have handle 2S or 3S packs so you're good there. Yes, the "C" rating is how fast it can dump the current. The higher the C rating the more $$$. For crawler and go slow needs you don't really need 50C. Heck, 25C would work. And Gens Ace is a really good brand. I've had one pack for my airplanes that lasted almost 10 years before it croaked and airplanes will pull more current than a crawler. I can empty a 3S 2000 in 10 minutes and that's consider a slow plane.
A B6 charger (I don't think it's made by FlySky) can easily handle this. Note, the B6 was originally made by iMax and then SkyRC (I think same company) but it has been cloned by so many and some outright counterfeit, you don't know if you have the real McCoy. There are ways to tell but I don't know them off the top of my head. Either way, you should be good on the charger too.
Correct! I didn't even realize that! My old batteries were indeed 2S. I just checked the charger as well. It is the iMax B6 mini by SkyRC, not FlySky....too many "sky's" lol. Also found the XT60 adapter, so I should be all set!
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/ga-a-50c-3600-3s1p-s-hv-xt60.htm
I'll see how this battery vs the adventure battery above fits in the tray based on the dimensions. I'd prefer a smaller form factor so the battery can sit in the little dip in the battery tray. Either way, i'll be ordering one of them tonight. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it!
mash914
Pebble Pounder
Not sure if you already ordered it or not, but I have the 4300mah version of that Gen's ace Adventure 3S battery (which I'm really happy with - and strangely seems to have almost the exact same dimensions as the 3600) and I just went and checked on my TRX4 - the battery definitely doesn't fit down in the smaller dip in the battery tray.
For what it's worth, I've been keeping mine up front in the Traxxas fender-based battery mount.
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Good read guys! I definitely have learned some things "thumbsup"
IMO, I would get 2-3 batteries that fit in the forward battery mount if that's in the budget. A lot better than a big stick pack in the back. I run two full size 2S Traxxas Lipos and I've never been out long enough to bust out the other battery, and were talking 2-3 hours on one battery. 2-3 small batteries will be plenty of run time for most.
IMO, I would get 2-3 batteries that fit in the forward battery mount if that's in the budget. A lot better than a big stick pack in the back. I run two full size 2S Traxxas Lipos and I've never been out long enough to bust out the other battery, and were talking 2-3 hours on one battery. 2-3 small batteries will be plenty of run time for most.
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
I built a carboard mockup of the battery and it seems like it could fit sideways in the little dip in the battery tray. I could be wrong, it is made of cardboard after all lol. However, it doesn't seem like the battery tray will close with that battery in there. The black plastic strip on top of the battery wont lock into place. Do you mind snapping a pic of how you got it to fit in your tray?
I have the TRX Sport Kit, so I don't think I can use the fender based battery mount. I believe I need the inner fenders for that.
Is the forward battery mount something different? Does it require the inner fender set to work?
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Yeah, after I posted that I seen you have the sport. But if you really do want it, you can get narrow fenders to work with the Sport body.
_________________
One lonely TRX4....
mash914
Pebble Pounder
You're right, it will fit turned up, but the cover won't close with it sitting that way.
I'll include pictures with it both ways, and also with how it fits up front. I'll just say with it up front, and no other mods, I was able to get mine (without its body) to climb up a 60deg slope - same as my much lower cg enduro. I really like having it up there.
I'll include pictures with it both ways, and also with how it fits up front. I'll just say with it up front, and no other mods, I was able to get mine (without its body) to climb up a 60deg slope - same as my much lower cg enduro. I really like having it up there.
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
Thanks, but I think i'll hold off on the fenders until I decide on which body I want!
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
You're right, it will fit turned up, but the cover won't close with it sitting that way.
I'll include pictures with it both ways, and also with how it fits up front. I'll just say with it up front, and no other mods, I was able to get mine (without its body) to climb up a 60deg slope - same as my much lower cg enduro. I really like having it up there.
Thanks for the pics!! I think i'll try to get it to rest in that little dip for now. I'm heading to Danbury Hobby on Monday to put my electronics in. They said they can help me with the soldering bits. I'm hoping they have this battery in stock there and hopefully a velcro strap. That way I could keep the battery on its side in the dip and use the velcro straps to hold it in place instead of the stock plastic strip.
That battery placement up front looks perfect. I'll have to do some research and see if there is a way to mount up front without the inner fender set!
ScaleLifeNewbie
I wanna be Dave
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
Hey guys, I finally got all the electronics installed today courtesy of the guys at Danbury Hobby. The truck is finally up and running! I also picked up a battery from them and i'm trying to charge it now. I'm using the SkyRC iMax B6 mini. I'm pretty sure I know what to select for all the settings except for the "A". I'm assuming that's the charge rate in amps?
This is the battery I picked up. How do I know what to set the amps to? I want to drive this thing lol! But I need to charge this battery first lol. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
https://www.powerhobby.com/3s-4200mah-120c-deans-shorty.html
This is the battery I picked up. How do I know what to set the amps to? I want to drive this thing lol! But I need to charge this battery first lol. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
https://www.powerhobby.com/3s-4200mah-120c-deans-shorty.html
mash914
Pebble Pounder
Most folks suggest charging at a 1C rate (although there are plenty of others who say they've used 2C forever), which you'd calculate by dividing the mah rating of the battery by 1000. In this case your 4200mah battery would be best charged at 4.2 amps (8.4amps for 2C charging). Not sure if your charger has that kind of resolution. FWIW, I charge my 4300mah batteries at 2 or 3 amps. And if I can I usually charge them outside on my driveway when it's nice out - I'm a bit of a chicken with Lipos:mrgreen:
Scale Build
Rock Stacker
Thanks! I googled a bit and found that formula to charge at 1C. I set it to charge at 4.2 amps. Any particular reason you charge them at 2 or 3 amps? My charger maxes out at 5A.
Hah! I'm terrified of these things too! That's why I'm so worried about these charger settings lol.
mash914
Pebble Pounder
My charger is a pretty basic one and only does 1, 2, 3, or 4 amps - they're buttons. Early on someone recommended the slower the better. For a while I was doing 1 amp, but at some point I decided to live a little;-) and bump it up. I'm sure I could do 4, but I'm not in any hurry.
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