motor gets too hot to touch and stalls

[TURTLE]

...

If you want to meet up this week I will help you fix this, bring some tools."thumbsup"

 

[rmdesignworks]

ya know Ty I ownder if the underdrive at the rear axle is causing a drag issue

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

If you want to meet up this week I will help you fix this, bring some tools."thumbsup"

that would be great. when and where?
my luck it will be something stupid that i overlooked somewhere along the lines.
dang it now i need to charge my lipos in case we get this fixed

 

[TURTLE]

ya know Ty I ownder if the underdrive at the rear axle is causing a drag issue

I honestly think there is something going on in the drivetrain, somewhere. I would like to personally pull the motor out and move the drivetrain around then run the motor for 10 or 20 minutes under zero load. That would be the best way to figure it out.
Plus it is Integy, very easily the motor could just suck.

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

i know its probably been heated up one too many times. i was at rch today and i was actually able to get a full battery pack to lipo cut off. yes the motor was hot. but it was the first full battery i have been able to run non stop in two weeks. i
appreciate any help on this.

 

[canibalpenguin]

I just went back and read the first post and noticed that you said the rear is underdriven, didn't notice that the first time. If the front and rear are running at different ratios then they have to fight each and would put a lot of stress on the motor, it would be like driving with the brakes on. And if you tried to push the truck across the floor with no motor you would feel it.

example: say you have,
motor output @8000rpm, this number is from the novak site for a 55t, the rest of the numbers i just pick as close to what i could remember
Main trans; 12t pinion > 96t spur= 8:1 ratio
front axle; 16t pinion > 32t ring= 2:1 ratio, final ratio= 16:1, rpm @ wheel=500
rear axle 1 tooth lower; 15t pinion > 33t ring= 2.2:1 ratio, final= 17.6:1, rpm= 454.54
rear axle 2 teeth lower; 14t pinion> 34t ring= 2.42, final= 19.42, rpm= 411.94
so say we have a 13" rollout (which I'm sure is short), we would have
front= about 6.15 mph
rear 1 tooth= 5.59 mph
rear 2 teeth= 5.07 mph

Hope this helps to show why it would cause a prob even with a difference of one or two teeth it would cause the axles to fight each other.

 

[landon4]

I have seen quite a few people run the overdrive front gears and leave the rear gears the stock ratio and they don't have any problems, its kind of the same as some people running say a 55t front and a 65t rear on a clod super as it would help in climbing situations and act like a fulltime dig but it is only a slight amount.

 

[rmdesignworks]

I have seen quite a few people run the overdrive front gears and leave the rear gears the stock ratio and they don't have any problems, its kind of the same as some people running say a 55t front and a 65t rear on a clod super as it would help in climbing situations and act like a fulltime dig but it is only a slight amount.

theres huge difference in running an moa electrically (different motors front and rear) and a shafty/single motor with different gearing front and rear,,all the strain is on the single motor

the amp draw on a single output moa with dual motors is split between the motors ,,more volts and amps you throw at the moa the more power it has,,,with a shafty though if you have binding or too much drag on the from or rear of the rig it effects the single motor either way cuz the problem is transferred through the final drive gear through the tranny to the motor.

 

[8-454]

Everybody has been giving great advice on this. But I think one more thing could be looked at.

I'm currently running an FXR, CC Bec, 3s lipo, 35t tekin motor, and at first the motor was getting hotter than usual and the fxr's temp indicator would be maxed out. It was then pointed out to me that I was using the fxr's internal bec and my ccbec at the same time and this was causing the two to work against eachother which made my fxr overheat, which started cutting power to the motor creating more strain on it to work harder with less amperage beeing supplied and caused my motor to run hotter. So my motor would stall easier and so would my servos.

To make a long story short I removed the red wire from the esc plug that goes to the reciever eliminating the use of the fxr's bec and relying soley on the ccbec. My motor runs cooler and so does my fxr and now I can crawl for an hour+ without any issues.

This might not be your case but if your red wire is still hooked up I would highly recomend trying this out. Its simple, fast, and reversible if it doesn't work. Hope this helps.

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

theres huge difference in running an moa electrically (different motors front and rear) and a shafty/single motor with different gearing front and rear,,all the strain is on the single motor

the amp draw on a single output moa with dual motors is split between the motors ,,more volts and amps you throw at the moa the more power it has,,,with a shafty though if you have binding or too much drag on the from or rear of the rig it effects the single motor either way cuz the problem is transferred through the final drive gear through the tranny to the motor.

i dont recal having the overheating problem when i was running the underdrive rear with an 8 cell saddle pack. however the gears did come with a bag full of shims which i felt no need to use as the axle didnt seem to have any binding and spun freely.
i havent read of anyone else having overheating motor with the underdrive gears so i dunno.

Everybody has been giving great advice on this. But I think one more thing could be looked at.

I'm currently running an FXR, CC Bec, 3s lipo, 35t tekin motor, and at first the motor was getting hotter than usual and the fxr's temp indicator would be maxed out. It was then pointed out to me that I was using the fxr's internal bec and my ccbec at the same time and this was causing the two to work against eachother which made my fxr overheat, which started cutting power to the motor creating more strain on it to work harder with less amperage beeing supplied and caused my motor to run hotter. So my motor would stall easier and so would my servos.

To make a long story short I removed the red wire from the esc plug that goes to the reciever eliminating the use of the fxr's bec and relying soley on the ccbec. My motor runs cooler and so does my fxr and now I can crawl for an hour+ without any issues.

This might not be your case but if your red wire is still hooked up I would highly recomend trying this out. Its simple, fast, and reversible if it doesn't work. Hope this helps.

i cant remember exactly how i have my bec wired up but i am runninga Y harness between the servo and bec. cant remember exactly how but i do remember un hooking the red wire going to the reciver. il have to check laer to see how i hooked it up. a buddy has his wired up this way on his berg and had it the same on his losi comp crawler. and he didnt have any issues that i remember.
i wonder if wiring the bec up the way castle recomends would help at all.

 

[landon4]

I'm not sure how your bec is hooked up but I would eliminate the y-harness and unhook the red wire on the rx plug for the esc and then plug the bec directly into the batt slot on the rx, I'm thinking you have the bec plugged into the y-harness and each end of the harness plugged into the dig servo and one in the steer servo but I don't think you would have to have the bec running the dig servo it will probably be ok without it, you might try like I mentioned it is how mine was hooked up and I have no problems.

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

i havent looked at my crawler yet to check but i do remember putting the Y on the steering servo at he reciever.
ok i just checked it.
the y is pluged into the reciver. one leg going to servo and one from the bec. with the red wire removed at the reciever.
i did just notice thaat the led on the back of the v11 motor no longer lights up..... maybe the motor is toast. i wint know till i can afford a new one or find someone with a known good motor i can swap in to check

 

[canibalpenguin]

Um, yeah. Two bec would not be working against each other. You would just get the voltage and amps from which ever is the lowest. If you plug the batt into an esc that has a bec that lets 6v @ 2amps go through then plug that into a receiver that has a bec that limits it to 5v @ 1amp you're going to get the 5v @ 1amp to the servos. And this in no way should affect motor performance as they are on seperate circuits inside the esc. The only way this would cause the esc to overheat is if the esc was not spec'd to run at 11v and the internal bec was having a hard time stepping down the voltage but not because the two bec's were fighting each other.

 

[rmdesignworks]

this is how i run mbec in my system...

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

this is how i run mbec in my system...

maybe ill try wiring mine this way this weekend after the hobbytown comp.
even though my fxr isnt getting hot, just my motor. but at this point i will try anything to combat the hot motor issues

 

[AlmstEvil665]

I just went back and read the first post and noticed that you said the rear is underdriven, didn't notice that the first time. If the front and rear are running at different ratios then they have to fight each and would put a lot of stress on the motor, it would be like driving with the brakes on. And if you tried to push the truck across the floor with no motor you would feel it.

example: say you have,
motor output @8000rpm, this number is from the novak site for a 55t, the rest of the numbers i just pick as close to what i could remember
Main trans; 12t pinion > 96t spur= 8:1 ratio
front axle; 16t pinion > 32t ring= 2:1 ratio, final ratio= 16:1, rpm @ wheel=500
rear axle 1 tooth lower; 15t pinion > 33t ring= 2.2:1 ratio, final= 17.6:1, rpm= 454.54
rear axle 2 teeth lower; 14t pinion> 34t ring= 2.42, final= 19.42, rpm= 411.94
so say we have a 13" rollout (which I'm sure is short), we would have
front= about 6.15 mph
rear 1 tooth= 5.59 mph
rear 2 teeth= 5.07 mph

Hope this helps to show why it would cause a prob even with a difference of one or two teeth it would cause the axles to fight each other.

Your thinking to much. These are RC trucks not 1:1 rigs. The ratio on the underdrive gear set is not near enough to make the axle bind and overheat the motor.

Ok heres my 2 cents. Run your BEC like Castle says to or run it directly to the steering servo. You will have to pull the signal wire to run it to your reciever unless you are running a Y harness which you are. I would say you are good on the BEC. If you cap was bad on the FXR you would be scrapping melted plastic off of your truck by now. Your battery is fine its not putting out more power than the motor can handle.

Seems to me like everything electronic wise is fine from what your say. You also say that the drivetrain is not binding. If the shafts spin free your axles are good. If you spur spins free your trans is fine. Everything is leaning towards your motor. Its junk. You have tried brushes,springs, cleaning the comm now your just chasing ghost. I'd say the motor gave up the ghost around the time the cap broke. Must have got a surge of juice and cooked one of the windings. Get a buddys motor and try it to see what happens. I have seen Integys give up the ghost for no reason before.

 

[rmdesignworks]

Your thinking to much. These are RC trucks not 1:1 rigs. The ratio on the underdrive gear set is not near enough to make the axle bind and overheat the motor.

Ok heres my 2 cents. Run your BEC like Castle says to or run it directly to the steering servo. You will have to pull the signal wire to run it to your reciever unless you are running a Y harness which you are. I would say you are good on the BEC. If you cap was bad on the FXR you would be scrapping melted plastic off of your truck by now. Your battery is fine its not putting out more power than the motor can handle.

Seems to me like everything electronic wise is fine from what your say. You also say that the drivetrain is not binding. If the shafts spin free your axles are good. If you spur spins free your trans is fine. Everything is leaning towards your motor. Its junk. You have tried brushes,springs, cleaning the comm now your just chasing ghost. I'd say the motor gave up the ghost around the time the cap broke. Must have got a surge of juice and cooked one of the windings. Get a buddys motor and try it to see what happens. I have seen Integys give up the ghost for no reason before.

the same physics apply,,gear drag is gear drag

 

[Fordx4Ranger]

a new motor is in the near future. i am wonting to find a good handwound locally. but if not i will have to sell some stuff to get some money into my paypal. i am looking at a warrior motor.

 

[Terranaut]

I've been watching this thread because I'm curious to see the solution. I run a Novak 55 and it started getting rather hot and even cut out a few times, after about 50 hours running. I had the comm lathed, it took about seven cuts to clean it up! After that it took a couple hours to break in, but the heat and cut-out issue disappeared. It's done about 150 hours since, no further problem.

The other thing is gear ratio. If it's too high for the motor/battery you have, it will make your motor hotter. With higher volts you need lower gearing. Rock racer gearing is too fast for pure crawling. What exact gearing are you running? Pinion and spur?

So far as the overdrive/underdrive ring and pinion goes, I have them and didn't notice any change in motor performance. It may be a touch more draggy in a straight line on smooth asphalt, but when crawling there's absolutely no issue.

Cheers.

 

[GumbyIL]

My AX-10 was getting really hot with low battery run times. I put a different motor on and bought a new lipo, but still had problems. I'm not sad I bought the Maxamps lipo though. It's a great battery.

The problem was the bushings in the R2D trans were wiped out. The gears would bind and create a lot of issues.