Moa vs shafty question

[Dezertdirt]

For $500 which should I do moa or shafty? I'm looking to run difficult lines. How hard is it to setup a moa correctly? Not necessarily loocking for a comp crawler. Which is better? Should I do a kit,rtr or a full custom? Also any opinions on the exceed mad torque 1/8th scale crawler or the rc4wd bully or rs10. I don't want a scaler. Thanks in advance.

 

[Calderwood]

Do you allready have a radio that will mix two speed controls? Do you have any other gear?

Unless you already have some of the stuff a $500 moa is going to be hard to do.

 

[MR.VERTICAL]

Sounds like a 2.2 Sport class rig is for you it can be built from the ground up go here and check it out.
Axial AX-Scorpin
- RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech at RCCrawler.com P.S and you can build it for half the price of a burg.

 

[Dezertdirt]

Right now I am running an airtronics mx3x for my wraith. It has moa mixing. I also may have a couple of Traxxas 21t motors lying around. will they work? Also how difficult is it to make is it to make an ax10 from the ground up? Should I make some with a dig?

 

[Trubble]

I also may have a couple of Traxxas 21t motors lying around. will they work?

If you put voltage to them, and they turn, they'll 'work'. Far from ideal, though, IMO. Gear a LOT lower than you think you need to with those.
I went with one of THESE in my comp crawler. That may be a tough pill to swallow for some, but when I made the commitment to go big time, I wasn't going to do it half-way. And there's some more budget-conscious motors there. THESE would probably be decent trail/occasional crawl motors.

Also how difficult is it to make is it to make an ax10 from the ground up?

Not overly so. The list of what you need looks daunting, but once you get everything together, it's not as bad as you'd think.

---Start with a pair of THESE,
***Optional, THESE, at least one for the front, maybe two if you're going to do 4ws
***Optional, THESE. I use, and like, the Hot Racing Unibody model, but I'd give Grip-Fab a try if I needed to replace any of my lockers.
They'll both be steerable axles, so if you want to go with 4 wheel steer, you'd be set. If you don't want 4ws, then get these next two items.
***Optional, THESE and
***Optional, THESE
Next up I'm going to make a recommendation of these driveshafts based on the chassis I'm going to recommend. If you go with a different chassis, or set this one up 50/50, you may need different driveshafts.
---THIS, for the front, and
---THIS, for the rear (don't throw a hissy-fit right now, read through to the end and you'll see why)
---THIS is something you'll also need
Motor we discussed above......
---THIS is what I'd recommend for a chassis. I like bodiless, you may not, don't know. Might be able to put a body on this if you want, dunno, you'll hafta do some research. If you go with this chassis, you'll need to go do some reading anyway, I don't remember offhand what the link lengths are. IIRC, these are supposed to be set up with a 60/40 forward bias, (front links shorter, rear links longer). That's why I suggested the driveshafts I did. If you do yours 50/50, (front and rear links same length), then you may just be able to find some stock AX driveshafts or some WB8 shafts and use those.

After that, you'd just need to make/buy links, shocks, pick out electronics, gearing, and tires/wheels of your choice.

(I went w/ Sidewinder Micro ESC, CC BEC {10 amp model}, stock 14/87 gears, DNA Thrasher wheels {disco'd, pretty sure}, white dot Rover tires, Traxxas {Slash} plastic shocks.)

I would think you'd be able to get a shafty up and running for under $500, personally.

Should I make some with a dig?

Your call. When I built mine, it was to Sportsman rules, so no dig, no BTA steering, no 4ws. Since it sounds like you're doing stuff mostly on your own and don't need to follow any organized rules, you go dig if you want to.




.

 

[HARDKNOCKZ]

PM'd ya.

For $500 you can grab a pretty decent starter rig in either class. You may not wanna comp now but building or buying a rig that can easily be converted into a comp worthy & legal rig isnt a bad idea IMO.

You can try a kit or ground up build but realistically...I think finding a decent used rig will make your 5 bills go MUCH further.

Sportsman class vs. Pro class is really a dead debate at this point since most of us that run sporty also run pro & our rigs/driving styles reflect that. If you wanna fun, capable rig that will make your head spin with ability...MOA will suit you better.

Stay away from the Redcat lineup all rogether. It's far from quality & theres a good reason nobody comps with em. Same with the Mad Torque. Bullys can be built into very capable crawlers but you'll be deep money wise. Best bang for your buck is an XR10 from Axial for an MOA. For a shafty rig...you can find Losi Comp Crawlers for CHEAP these days & there's still guys killin it with em today. AX10 axled rigs are what most of us run in the Sportsman class & again...can be built to absolutely KILL most lines tried. In the right hands, Ive seen AX10's with NO DIG win 2.2 Pro comps against $2,000 MOA's.

Long post longer...keep an eye on the FOR SALE section & maybe post up in the WANTED section. Ive seen some VERY NICE rigs go for under $500 lately.

Welcome to the party!

J.D.

 

[ROWDY RACING]

Shaftsmen. "thumbsup"

 

[HARDKNOCKZ]

Shaftsmen. "thumbsup"

Damn. Im such a noob.

 

[Curcal]

There's a custom built xr going for $500 in the classifieds right now. All the vp parts are anodized pink but its set up pretty well. Good luck.

 

[Dezertdirt]

Thanks everyone. How hard is it to properly setup an xr10? Any chassis recommendations for an ax10, or ar60,or xr10 based rig?

 

[electraglidebiker]

I don't think it's hard to set up an XR10. Most everyone on here that had the knowledge will help you out. It's just time consuming. Personally I did a little set up and then decided to get a lot of wheel time to learn how to drive it. So far so good.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Pygmy]

There's a custom built xr going for $500 in the classifieds right now. All the vp parts are anodized pink but its set up pretty well. Good luck.

Colored anodizing can be 'fixed' really quick using caustic soda

 

[Dezertdirt]

If I do ax10 should I start with used ax10 or build from the ground up? Also does anyone know what a smashed esc is? Is it the same as a decased esc?

 

[KustomKreeper8606]

Also does anyone know what a smashed esc is? Is it the same as a decased esc?

In the terms of say a smashed tekin fxr, it is decased, the four gold post removed, wires soldered straight to board and heatshrinked

 

[1r3land]

If I do ax10 should I start with used ax10 or build from the ground up? Also does anyone know what a smashed esc is? Is it the same as a decased esc?

If your gonna spend the $ and start a build from the ground up, if the funds are available, step up and build some xr10 axles and go from there, if your wanting just a "backyard" crawler to run around with and have fun ( no comps or anything) is buy a used ax10 and modify it as you get the time/money.. But like i said, if your gonna start from the ground up ( which is gonna cost some $$) bite the bullet and get some xr10 axles and build them! They can be Mildly built and deff fun to play with in the back yard also but can also go all out and have a full on comp rig!

IMO as long as u go with axial u will be happy!
Just all depends on how deep your pockets are and what am your future plans are!

Good luck!!

 

[Dezertdirt]

Why do people smash and decase esc's? Thanks

 

[1r3land]

Why do people smash and decase esc's? Thanks

Usually to conserve space and save a some weight!

 

[Dezertdirt]

Do I need a slipper clutch? Also what is the difference between 2.2 sportsman and 2.2 shafty classes? What specs do I have to meet?

 

[Trubble]

Short answer......
No.
Sportsman is club-level, Shafty is Nationals level.
Shafty.





Bored? Long answer is as follows.....

Do I need a slipper clutch?

I have mine tightened down so as to be largely ineffective. I also run a Brood motor and somewhat low 14/87 gearing. Yeah, if them tires ever get into a bind, and I'm stupid enough to keep the throttle nailed, I'm quite certain broken parts will be my reward. (already have a stock drive shaft that got 'candy-caned' pretty good) But, I'm comfortable taking the gamble, so IMO, no.
Question really is, can you handle the consequences of replacing failed parts, or do you need a stress relief point in there to protect you from yourself?

Also what is the difference between 2.2 sportsman and 2.2 shafty classes?

If I read correctly, HERE it states that Sportsman was to be a club level class and is apparently not in place at National level events. I went and read through the 2011, 2012, & 2013 Rules, and it looks a lot to me like 2.2 Shafty was crafted as a sort of Sportsman clone to bring the Sportsman rules (local, club level) to the Nationals arena.
Basically in a nutshell, 2011 had the Sportsman class which used the same body dimensions as the regular 2.2 class (allowing bodiless).
2012 saw the introduction of the S class (for National events) in addition to Sportsman (for local club level events), however in the S class bodiless was banned, Sportsman still followed 2.2 class (allowing bodiless).
2013 sees the Sportsman class eliminated, and the S class renamed 2.2 Shafty, again with bodiless outlawed.
The commonality between Sportsman, S, and Shafty has been the focus on keeping digs and rear steering out by specifically noting the use of only two channels on your radio, and (in 2013) spelling out "-2.5.7- Vehicles are limited to 1 ESC, 1 motor, and 1 servo only".
Looks to me like dig, and bodiless are still options, but installing either of these bumps you into the "2.3-Class 2-Class 2.2" and you simply run with the moa crowd. Looks like 4ws is a no-go for all 2.2 sized classes (Shafty or moa).

What specs do I have to meet?

Depends largely on where you plan on running. If you're just running with a local club, you kinda really need to go down there and see what rules they use.

If it helps any, build your truck to Shafty guidelines, and you should still be able to run with your local club even if they're using Sportsman rules.

If you build to Sportsman guidelines (which allows bodiless/but not dig), then if you ever attend a Nationals event you won't fit in the Shafty class, you'll be bumped to running with the moa rigs. (if you really don't want to get bumped at a National event, solidly mount any legal body over your bodiless chassis, and boom, your Sportsman has now been brought back into Shafty guidelines) (if you insist on running dig, you're running with the moa's regardless of body/bodiless)

Unless someone else has a different perspective.........









.

 

[Charlie-III]

Re: MOA vs shafty question

Short answer......
No.
Sportsman is club-level, Shafty is Nationals level.
Shafty.





Bored? Long answer is as follows.....





I have mine tightened down so as to be largely ineffective. I also run a Brood motor and somewhat low 14/87 gearing. Yeah, if them tires ever get into a bind, and I'm stupid enough to keep the throttle nailed, I'm quite certain broken parts will be my reward. (already have a stock drive shaft that got 'candy-caned' pretty good) But, I'm comfortable taking the gamble, so IMO, no.
Question really is, can you handle the consequences of replacing failed parts, or do you need a stress relief point in there to protect you from yourself?



If I read correctly, HERE it states that Sportsman was to be a club level class and is apparently not in place at National level events. I went and read through the 2011, 2012, & 2013 Rules, and it looks a lot to me like 2.2 Shafty was crafted as a sort of Sportsman clone to bring the Sportsman rules (local, club level) to the Nationals arena.
Basically in a nutshell, 2011 had the Sportsman class which used the same body dimensions as the regular 2.2 class (allowing bodiless).
2012 saw the introduction of the S class (for National events) in addition to Sportsman (for local club level events), however in the S class bodiless was banned, Sportsman still followed 2.2 class (allowing bodiless).
2013 sees the Sportsman class eliminated, and the S class renamed 2.2 Shafty, again with bodiless outlawed.
The commonality between Sportsman, S, and Shafty has been the focus on keeping digs and rear steering out by specifically noting the use of only two channels on your radio, and (in 2013) spelling out "-2.5.7- Vehicles are limited to 1 ESC, 1 motor, and 1 servo only".
Looks to me like dig, and bodiless are still options, but installing either of these bumps you into the "2.3-Class 2-Class 2.2" and you simply run with the MOA crowd. Looks like 4ws is a no-go for all 2.2 sized classes (Shafty or MOA).



Depends largely on where you plan on running. If you're just running with a local club, you kinda really need to go down there and see what rules they use.

If it helps any, build your truck to Shafty guidelines, and you should still be able to run with your local club even if they're using Sportsman rules.

If you build to Sportsman guidelines (which allows bodiless/but not dig), then if you ever attend a Nationals event you won't fit in the Shafty class, you'll be bumped to running with the MOA rigs. (if you really don't want to get bumped at a National event, solidly mount any legal body over your bodiless chassis, and boom, your Sportsman has now been brought back into Shafty guidelines) (if you insist on running dig, you're running with the MOA's regardless of body/bodiless)

Unless someone else has a different perspective.........









.

Thanks for the info.....sorta wondering where I will go down the road. I WILL read the rules so I know, but you hit the highlights.