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Master Basher's second Bully build (bully 2)

Finished up my 1/8" gr5 ti links on all uppers and steering and drag link today. I really like the look of the thin rod up top. I had a good chance to get some testing done on the ackerman steering, and although I'm really happy with the smoothness of the movement with it, it does make my turn radius bigger, so I'm going to go just straight out extentions on the steering and leave ackerman on rigs where steering isn't such a fine line.


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Just looking at the set up. Try unhooking your drag link. Turn on your radio and rig. Turn the wheel all the way to one side (with the epa's all the way up) and then the other. Compare it to how far it will move manually going to the mechanical stops. If you can move the steering parts by hand further by hand than the servo will allow. Move the connection point to the servo further out on the horn.
 
Just looking at the set up. Try unhooking your drag link. Turn on your radio and rig. Turn the wheel all the way to one side (with the epa's all the way up) and then the other. Compare it to how far it will move manually going to the mechanical stops. If you can move the steering parts by hand further by hand than the servo will allow. Move the connection point to the servo further out on the horn.

It might look a little like that but the servo will move the cvds up against the axle in a bind with less than 100% on the servo travel....and the servo is set to 180* movement. I didnt want to run out so I paid the $10 extra for the programming when I bought it.

In other news im babying the rig until my replacement cvd comes in. It still stays together alright with the busted outdrive.8)
 
I used to run toe out a little but have gone back to O. I was trying to compensate for the backwards ackerman that most of these scale trucks have that steer from the front. I like to push both wheels to their extreme one way and then use that distance for my tie rod. What ever that ends up is what I use.
 
Another easy trick too is to screw the tie rod into the bottoms of the c-hubs...with 0* ackerman knuckles the distance between will be the same at the "kingpins" as it is at the tie rod holes in the knuckles...Ive run ackerman on rigs everytime Ive built one and always revert to 0* cuz the outside tire in a turn especially uphill always tries to dig in under the inside tire or keeps the inside tire from getting good bite...which rolls the axle/rig out.
 
de-cased my 3 channel rx:

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I finally screwed around with my dx4s enough to figure out all my proportional desires and I'm pretty excited about it. I'm thinking about doing a tutorial on it since I couldn't find one to help me figure it out. Now I have full prop control over both axles and couldn't be happier with this radio.
 
We are fixing to be Mamba Micro powered, not smashed together either, or maybe smashed with the heat sinks on opposite sides of the smash for heat loss. My sidewinder smash just gets too hot for my liking and I have plenty of space on my rig to run them separate.

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look at these sweet babies. 5 slot 13t crawlmaster experts. They look very nice. 12* advanced machine wound and standup brushes. At $45 each, I thought it wise that I go from my Integy cans to these before going off the deep end and getting some puller 500's. I need to see the difference between my Integy's and these first.

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Hooked them up and tested them. They don't seem to go quite as slowly on the low end as I expected they might. Still need to do some things to my setup to accomodate them though. They spin up pretty nicely though.

I think I'm gonna like them a lot.
 
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