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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

Love my Rey, Quickly becoming one of my favorites... My son and nephews took it out tonight on some BFG's off of my bomber with intentions of doing some hillclimbs. The truck straight up dominated "thumbsup" very surprising as 1 nephew was driving a brushless Summit, and another on a Brushless bomber.

30107617733_20d5b457c0_c.jpg


30654895801_d7ace539ea_c.jpg


30107617943_750c33e6dd_c.jpg
 
Lanky said:
Love my Rey, Quickly becoming one of my favorites... My son and nephews took it out tonight on some BFG's off of my bomber with intentions of doing some hillclimbs. The truck straight up dominated "thumbsup" very surprising as 1 nephew was driving a brushless Summit, and another on a Brushless bomber.

30107617733_20d5b457c0_c.jpg


30654895801_d7ace539ea_c.jpg


30107617943_750c33e6dd_c.jpg
Click to expand...

What rims and what hub spacers for them?
 
I think he just greased them teagle.


the center I put in 30k. and the front I think I have 30k
 
BobTeagle said:
Could you please point me to your post about what choices of diff oil you used? I went back through the thread but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Locked rear, 30K center, greased front (i.e. completely open).

The greased front diff means as soon as the chassis torque-twists and lifts one of the front wheels, the lifted wheel diffs-out completely and the front axle stops putting any power to the ground. That way the front wheel still touching the ground can't torque-steer the truck. The rest of the time, when all four wheels are on the ground, it behaves like any other 4WD truck.

30K is a bit thick for the center diff, but the oil thins-out as it ages, so the oil spends most of its lifetime close to the right viscosity. I always full-fill my diffs because I don't like the effect of churning air into the oil and thinning it out over the course of the run; I want it to perform the same at the end of the run as it did at the beginning.
 
Last edited:
I ran the Rey with the Calibers at the track this weekend and its a totally different truck! I also added 5oz weight to fuel cell which is the weight of the spare tire and tire mounting setup. I know the tires really woke the truck up but I feel the best thing I done was just simply putting it on my Lynx 4S radio. A radio that feels like home makes more of a difference than almost anything I think. Only two other SCT trucks showed and they were easy to keep pace with and outrun most of the time. Only nose dived twice all day and wrecked spectacularly both times. Definitely not the fastest but there is no need for your Rey to stay away from the track.
 
After about a week of messing around I finally got dual shocks working for the rear AND the front ! I had to build a shock tower extension, modify the upper/lower arms, then build a clamping support for the uppers to add rigidity. It turned out great and just feels really nice, like I have double the bore in dampening.

jmNOEzom.jpg
 
fyrstormer said:
Locked rear, 30K center, greased front (i.e. completely open).

The greased front diff means as soon as the chassis torque-twists and lifts one of the front wheels, the lifted wheel diffs-out completely and the front axle stops putting any power to the ground. That way the front wheel still touching the ground can't torque-steer the truck. The rest of the time, when all four wheels are on the ground, it behaves like any other 4WD truck.

30K is a bit thick for the center diff, but the oil thins-out as it ages, so the oil spends most of its lifetime close to the right viscosity. I always full-fill my diffs because I don't like the effect of churning air into the oil and thinning it out over the course of the run; I want it to perform the same at the end of the run as it did at the beginning.
Click to expand...

Hey I want to thank you man! Putting grease in the front diff really helped! Been running in a rallycross environment with some buddies and the torque steer on the asphalt section was driving me crazy. I know this truck is built for off road, but TT's hit asphalt sections in Baja. I used Ofna high temp grease. Works great!
 
Expo_cam said:
Ok guys so I figured out an awesome and easy solution to the whole non dean's plug connector that comes built into the truck. I've seen and personally went and bought a conversion plug to run a dean's plug and obviously the wires are really long and get in the way in my opinion so I did a very easy mod to change that and I strongly suggest it to everyone.

First I took out the little molded plastic piece holding the stock connector and looked at how much needed to be taken off to fit a dean's plug adapter in its place. I then sanded the center section down until I could very snugly slide in the dean's plug adapter

07569bc8eef2cda7b0a16998d6ae8cfe.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Another option for Deans battery connector users, replace the EC3 with this connector to the esc wires for an easier fit.
Deans Charge Connector with 4" Wire 13 AWG, Male | HorizonHobby
 
BobTeagle said:
Hey I want to thank you man! Putting grease in the front diff really helped! Been running in a rallycross environment with some buddies and the torque steer on the asphalt section was driving me crazy. I know this truck is built for off road, but TT's hit asphalt sections in Baja. I used Ofna high temp grease. Works great!
Click to expand...
Glad I could help! :D
 
I have both trucks the yeti and Losi. The Losi drives better than Yeti. The Yeti is stop heavy

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
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