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Looking for local SCX6 to take on outdated Clodbuster

not dwarfed you just have bigger tires and the scx6 will still out crawl you and look way more scale doing it
big tires just raise your center of gravity that and with your body jacked to the sky won't crawl for beens
mighy look good but won't be able to crawl its way out of a bowl of guacamole

note you can use a video editor to flip the video
 
If you must vintage, why not use kyosho mad force axles?
 
I guess i'm confused...

Is it me something i said or ya'll just don't like Clodbuster builds?


The reason its Clodbuster i happened to get a Rock Crawling build going back in 2005 and bought these as rock crawler axles from RC4WD.

Back then, the NN Chassis (jthe center section you see in my build) was quite popular and so was the Stick chassis -- for MOA builds ad MOA comps.

MOA was TOP CRAWLER IN TOWN and i still bet i WHOOP SCX6 in a rock crawling competition. I lose at thrashing all day and admit that, can't jump i don't think -- or haven't tried much as i don't want to ruin my hard work or risk it and its not worth it to me. I enjoy going slow rock crawling and rip roaring thru deep snow.

You have MOA all wrong. I win ALL DAY and ALL NIGHT on center clearance by 10 miles and suffer from 0 as in ZERO torque twist which detracts from rock crawling perforamnce substantially.

Get an SCX6 out here soon so i can whoop.

My tires are glued. Ready to go by tomorrow afternoon.

I'll whoop it with a half bent up rear transmission even.

Ya'll gonna eat words if anyone can ever produce an SCX6.


NELSON'S/KENNEDY'sL Ledges are the best rocks around here.

Who will deliver and meet me and shut me up once and for all.

By they wayy --- ground clearance and height center is a delicate balance always.

I can EASILY remove 1 inch of ride height right now just be rotating shock collars (um hello do you know crawl tuning at all?) in two minutes. Going almost full droop suspension.

You SCX6's don't stand a chance in Rcok Crawling and i've seen plenty of vid of what it can do -- I agree its good and higly miodified its GREAT.

But so what, put a comp body on my rig (basically all i do is pull a M8 screws holding the wooden flat bed) and droop the shocks and I'm ready for full competation with any low-set Axial SCX6 Honcho.

And uh duh -- i let all the air out my inflatable killer tire mod and boom i will ripp you AXIAL Tires a new one grip school

You've obviously never seen a 40 serious Rock Crusher in person. the lugs are MASSIVE compared to any tire made for 2.9 SCX6.

Not that you can't just upgrade to 40 series and have seen worthy SCX6 do it and it looks good too.

You guys fill me with joy --- thank you for joining the thread!!!!

Come bring SCX6 lol if BTC keeps dion' its thing i'll just buy one for you each to drive and you can both come up and try to prove how good it is. :lmao:

Vids i'll make tomorrow will be of the rig fully disadvantaged because i want to see where its WORST. FULL AIR TIRES, FULL RIDE HEIGHT SUSPENSION....

From there, i begin to droop and air-down and see what its really capable off. Air down you say, Ron, whats' that, isn't that for REAL rock crawlers only.... we aren't familiar with that level of technical advancement here as SCX6 drivers... the most advanced rock crawling production* vehicle ever made

Corporate elite _ _ _ _.

I'm stating to get the impression ya'll have families working for or fed by Axial SCX6 company $ flows lol....

Sorry if i'm trampling on anyways cash flow! Maybe you can get Helistrom to bring his Gladiator stretch SCX6, or EXO to bring his 6x6. You gonna need it.

And as always - all in good FUN- hope no ill will as certainly not intended! Appreciate your posts even if you aren't big fans!

Mic drop
 
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As for scale.

Ok you win. Feel better now?

I'm not trying to lay claim to scale championship. I'm trying to make an MOA look more scale and crawl awesome, snow awesome, and mud awesome all at the same dam time.

Jeez, is that hard to understand? What the hell is wrong with that? Who's done it better?

I like scale, i happened ot have these axles laying around and didn't comp crawl the rig anymore and had sold off the stick chassis parts.......

Saw big rig bodies coming out and thought perfect i'll make it look how i like, nice and scale, and lfg maybe it will crawl awesome too.

Bam, here way are.

Got exactly what I wanted exactly how i wanted it --- been waiting for a nice pickup truck lexan big boy body for a LONG time. You all might stll have been i diapers. Just kdding.

Anuyways --- thanks for listening!!!! Hope you enjoy! :mrgreen:

More rock, mud and/or river vids soon. Hell queue some snow already dang it.

Also ---- Where is the SCX6 video of it plowing thru 10 inches of powder ????

Oh it can't beat 6 inches deep powder without lugs filling with snow.

Hmmm..... My video is ithere to see and that was short wheelbase 19.6 inches and smaller SCX6 sized tires with the Jeep 1/6th body (measures every bit as large as the SCX6 body) and the shorter flatbed made of Cedar wood. The current flat bed is made of Knotty Pine, but who's counting.

What kind of REAL WOOD does the SCX6 use in its build again? :flipoff:
 
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Let me just keep piling it on btw.... since the SCX6 already won and whooped me on scale i guess cuz it has a more scale chassis (but not hand built) and because it has a center transmission and 1 electric motor instead of 2.

Can the SCX6 haul a Tamiya TT02 Nissan GTR R34 across extreme terrain ?

Just was curious how that worked out on scale cool sh_t stuff..... to me, i was ecstatic to see i'll be able to load it up and haul it along. Bet even TRX6 can't take it where i'm going to.

For a loswer on scale realism, i feel ike i'm doing A-ok.
 
a little rock action, finally

Some peops might be quick to quip... "its not as scale, its not as durable, its not as fast, it can't jump, its not as heavy, its too tall, it can't crawl, blah blah" puke in my mouth.....

What can i say to that jazz, not much, perhaps its all accurate, label it however it suits you, i'm all good with it.

If you have something nice to say, THANK YOU. If you don't have anything nice to say... well, say it anyways, and i FORGIVE YOU. lol.

But hey.... what can i say....

BUILT NOT BOUGHT

:mrgreen:

LINK: https://youtu.be/4uFZQ8qTJmM?si=htgoa2wkffjyH9Eg
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4uFZQ8qTJmM?si=2CUgru0Xb1qkbAw7" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Latest:

Front & rear transmissions fully rebuilt, added 7075 spools, kept the 12yr old TTR CVD's and JB-Welded the splines inside the brass couples (they still had plenty of bite, but they also had *more play than a brant new brass coupler inside a brand new Clodbuster RC4WD XVD CVD which is identical part to the older TTR CVD (they bought TTR's design and now reproduce it for the Clod, i have 6 spare axle halfs lol just in case and in 12yrs never used a single one!!! --- lol can you say not the weak point!!)

Anyways along the way i bored out all 4 counter gears (2 front, 2 rear) to upgrade the small bearing 8x5x2.5 to 10x5x4mm so its now 20% bigger diamters and what 60%? wider. I know now the bearings shouldn't fail under load; but I am concerned the gears will fold over now that i've removed all the material from the inner center section -- especially on the spur/counter where its only 6mm wide from left side of teeth to right side.... the 2nd counter gear that contacts the Spool is over 1cm wide to boring it out wide and a bit deeper shouldn't hurt too much. I over-bored the front spur/counter (i was tired) and so thats most likely gonna be what plops if anything does. Good little bit of challenges so far and no sign of trans stress or failure just yet after a couple drives, half a 10400mah lipo used --- of course not much strain on the rear as the motor continues to drop under load :/

Next time around on the gears I'm sourcing a cheap drill press and going to bore them more accurately than drill held by hand on gear in a vise between wood blocks --- its really very good overall but the last gear has tiny noticeable wobble that i'm not happy with -- i was just tired of drilling slow and steady and got impatient with it.



Coming soon....

Full SCX6 Honcho Light kit (the hood mounted lamps, headlamps, taillights)

SCX6 alloy shocks

Swap back to the large Brushless motors for zero-stall on the rear end

-- OR -- mmhahahahuhahah

Switch back to BRUSHED altogether ---- 55t Lathe's --- this time with 1080 G2's -------- And for 1 reason only ------ The brushed motor 1080 G2 ESC's offer switchable DRAG BRAKE on the transmitter!!!!

Think about that --- if i could turn off the drag brake with the Tx (its what eats my transmissions so badly) then i can fromp in the snow and mud all i want, go fast all i want (maybe up to 12mph-ish) and not worry about drag braking the transmission into shred state.

Then flip on drag brake on the steep inclines for the rock crawl or other hills......

BEST OF ALL WORLDS at one time ---- but so weird it feels like taking a step back going back to brushed --- this rig hasn't been brushed since 2012!!! Where is brushless control of drag brake on a rx channel dam?

Also just entirely unsure that a 55t lathe 540/550 has the torque i need not to stall out the rear..... the Holmes Hobbies 9pole motors are close to good enough but not really though. If the front had enough grip i assume it would stall too at same time, its a bad scene and detracts from crawl perfroamance alot on inclines or hard tall ledges. I total PITA to swap over all eqip and find out the torque is insufficient and stalling.

Last time i had 55t lathes this rig was kind of a baby in size comparison, least as far as wheelbase and overall weight goes. Not gonna risk it for now.

Have to brainstorm how to quick change drag brake on Rhino ESC's. Seeing as its laptop, pretty much forget it - on the trail would be next to impossible. :(

Sticking brushless, high torque, low speed, crawl-only 100% drag brake setup for the summer -- long as i stay off the wheel speed and instant brakes.... the transmission with over-sized bearing on all 4 counter gears might** hold up lol. Maybe come winter by then brushless will get a rx/tx drag brake or i will consider going back to brushed for the winter snows (which there are not enough of anymore :( )

???
 
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not a lot left to say that you didn't just say lol
or haven't been sead already
the mamba monster x has the ability to turn the drag break on and off as well if you can get past the price and the whine they make while crawling
also if you can turn down the punch and ramp the drag break up slowly so it doesn't go to full break instantly that might help too


my crawler clod the escs have a switch to change from fast mode to crawl mode I just flip the front switch when I want to go fast and leave the rear break on if the front axle has the drag break turned on the truck wants to endo every time I let off the throttle


in the end the only thing that matters is if your having fun or not it's your toy play with it however you want
one question though were did ya find that bowl of beens to crawl in lol
 
ferp420 said:
in the end the only thing that matters is if your having fun or not it's your toy play with it however you want
one question though were did ya find that bowl of beens to crawl in lol
Click to expand...

You said it right ferp!

And yeah this a budget build in case couldn't already tell lol it's not getting any $200 escs anytime soon.

The beans are my own personal paradise at the very end of a nice mostly quiet street. I know the terrain ain't much but until the truck is just right its almost not worth the drive to anyplace with real rocks just yet.

Spring and summers comin'..... if the transmissions last ill get to some more challenging terrain soon! "thumbsup"
 
Oh and the beans are actually decent terrain for trx4 and highly challenging terrain for my 1/24 crawler collection!

And note the baby pebble beans around the firepit... just right for 1:43 LDRC and Orlandoo Hunters!!!!
 
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i guess that's what's driven me back to the big rig finally. It's the only crawler area i dont have all figured out and working nicely in my collection.... so it's challenging me right now to finally get it right..... or shelf it for good as a display model only.
 
Gula said:
Sorry, I misunderstood.
Click to expand...


lol all good my friend, no apologies necessary - but misunderstood about the beans.... or the thread in general? :lmao:



As for the power system -- i've decided to try a bigger motor brushed setup. It used to have 540's back in the day on 40 series Moabs which was really a pretty darn big tire (not quite Rock Crusher, but still big) and it had zero torque issues, just radio issues really at the time i had FM or something cheapo.

I hate to swap and find out i'm wrong so I'm going to wire up the whole system loose in the rig; keep the brushless setup installed and motors just set aside, desoldered, etc) and find out if it can crawl and give a jammed up rear end enough torque to spin slow and controlled.

Staring with Titan 35T 550's --- I would like some wheelspeed if possible for winter snows and I can go as small as 6t pinion on 3.175 shaft.

I think this motor makes more torque / has less stall than the Holmes Hobbies Outrunner based on how easy it is for me to hold the motor and stall it in Sinemode. Go any higher on settings and transtion from Sine to regular is not as smooth as i want it too be. That issue doesn't exist on a brushed setup, its just slow and smooth.

Long as the torque and non-stall is there I'll go all over to brushed with the switchable drag brake function and sell all the brushless motors and Rhino Esc's that I have for it.

I *think the Titans will have the power needed based on my experience with TRX4 -- 12lb+ running 3s 8400mah lipos.

A single Titan can turn all four wheels with no problem on low gearing with pretty endless torque -- i'm surprised it doesn't break the transmission sometimes. I know the tires are SO much smaller but hey its turning 4 of them. And I'll have 1 motor per axle so only turning two big tires instead of 4 smalls. Fingers crossed could always drop down to 55t for more torque.

Or if its that bad I will have not uninstalled the brushless setup so i'll just go over to the big 4250 Outrunners with 14pole and torque is never an issue there --- 350kv, 100% drag brake -- dedicated crawler if thats what I have to do.

Just am excited if can go brushed and switchable drag brake -- I might even transition over to 6ch pistol grip radio if this works out. "thumbsup"
 
ferp420 said:
a good radio would also be a game changer with esc mixing and 4 wheel steer mode switching
heck you could probably handle your drag break settings from the radio maybe
Click to expand...

Oh yeah i'm on a great radio right now (the original system was FM or iirc it was a junk rx from an Align TREX450 Heli 2004-ish model years. Yeah - junk.

Today I have full switchable control of 3 mode steering, 3 mode power, and throttle kill and still one switch available and countless channels using a Jumper T-Lite which is a video game console styled Open-Source radio for air-controlled ---- I fly a lot of FPV drones, micro jets, EDF Jets, Helis etc. You constantly have firmware upgrades, versioning upgrades etc --- so this one plugs in via USB-C and takes a SD Card. Its not a dinosaur thank goodness.

Yeap i still do twin stick control style radio with this rig -- its slow enough and always gave me all the channels i wanted setup on an air ratio with twin sticks throttle/steering left/right hands.

But -- without a 100% drag brake requiring constant precision control and dedicated crawling mode, i'd maybe like trying a pistol grip for shooting video and a bit of practice at the "one-hand driving" gig thats become popular. Although i'd probably suck at it.

not too decided on it for now..... i love setting the throttle stick at 10-15% and just steering the rig up or down the rocks ---- you don't have to be modulating throttle all that often to crawl well when the stick does not spring back to center automatically. With or without a Sine mode setup. ;)


Oh and if you're saying the Titan branded motor from Traxxas is junk and goes smoke easy -- well heck i didn't even go that far and just bought the generic version for $8 a piece.... "TLTAN" but hey they promised --- its waterproof "thumbsup":lmao:

and i sure intend to find out. For as many times as I've put my TRX4 under water, and i mean ENTIRELY under water, whether it was 6yrs ago or 6 weeks ago --- that motor still runs like a champ and barely smokes at all. I can't knock it. :mrgreen:
 
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oh the fake tltan is probably twice the motor the real titan is literally every traxxass branded electronics weather it's a esc servo or motor has gone up in flames and the only brand of electronics that has cought fire in any of my rigs
if I were to plug a battery in to a brand new traxxasssss rtr it would let the magic smoke out instantly

stick radios used to be the shit about what 15 years ago now there just well not for rc cars lol the hobby has come along way since the 80s lol
 
ferp420 said:
oh the fake tltan is probably twice the motor the real titan is literally every traxxass branded electronics weather it's a esc servo or motor has gone up in flames and the only brand of electronics that has cought fire in any of my rigs
if I were to plug a battery in to a brand new traxxasssss rtr it would let the magic smoke out instantly

stick radios used to be the shit about what 15 years ago now there just well not for rc cars lol the hobby has come along way since the 80s lol
Click to expand...


Yes well excellent and didn't realize its a 21t in the TRX4 i'm driving so with 35t i think gearing would be decent proper, again 8mph will be fast for me.

I got the big motors swapped back with 10t pinions and its GREAT!!!

Prior issues were all wrong timing (i maxxed it out, when it should be set at 0 for low speed torque performance..... no wonder it was hitting so dam hard.

Also it seems Sine mode is best with max power and near min "Sinemode startup range" whatever that is. So sticking with it like this everything runs smooth.

Will try it for a while, already had it out tonight and tried areas where it bogged before with the small brushless outrunners --- that issue is 100% fixed.

Slow speed and slow control and big brake power are 2nd to none in this setup.

However........... No more wheelspeed. Deep snow plowin' -- done unless i laptop connect, turn off drag brake, and run 6-8s.

For slow speed crawling -- 2s is more than enough. It runs up the rocks and inclined beautifully even on 50% max throttle with 2s ------ essentially getting the power of 1s.

These motors havec no speed but all the torque all day.

Its probably best this way --- so far the new gearing/bearing setup has held up to the torque load. Early yet of course.

But hey maybe it was wheelspeed doing it and we all know how Wheelspeed works -- its like crack. The more you can have, the more you want to use it.

Every time she won't proper crawl an obstacle.... oh let me just tuck in a wee bit of extra wheelspeed here and see what happens.

Before ya know the throttle is pinned, the tires are jumpin' and 2 out of 10 times it gets you out of the pinch and you don't roll over backwards lol.

I just wonder maybe she lasts a bunch longer going 2mph max like my older setups...... I def can't have higher gearing with these motors as they have just too much torque. Prolly would need set of steel gears, not that billet aluminum isn't great... light and strong -- but weak compared to steel, period.

Vids soon of epic slow crawlin with all the torque to creep slower than any of the other big rigs!!! "thumbsup"


As for sticks -- yes in cars/trucks these are dinosaur controllers lol -- but sticks are still quite necessary for air-controlled rc and thats what i use. Jumper T Lite is extremely relevant and popular today outside of land rc stuff. Just sayin'

Not that it matters but i prolly can get 4x the range as well running an air setup compared to your land rx's/tx's -- twin dipole antennas, higher wattage signal outputs rx/tx etc. You've probably never heard of LoRa signal or ELRS i'm guessing. Its used for long range in FPV.

If you are used to driving with sticks like me, its no probably just adapting an air tx for twin sticks. Actually if you are good at RC (like as in you can fly Helicopters) then you can learn to have 100% separated/divorced front/rear steering with an air tx ----- where the right stick is left/right steering of the front and the throttle stick is also rudder controller for a helicopter so controlling rear steer with left/right of the throttle stick feels quite natural just like controlling the tail of a rc helicopter -- left/right with rudder stick inputs while also modulating throttle at the same time.

It takes a little extra brain matter..... most folks just stick to the simplicity of a pistol grip. I get it.

Flyin heli's rc isn't for everyone.
 
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I've been looking at lora setups for the security cameras around the property but never for rc use my drone goes up and left and then crash that's all it dose lol and I started RC with airplanes back in what the mid 80s then gave them up and just recently started flying again if 2 flights count as flying lol
I also used stick for cars back when but the first time I used a pistol grip radio there was no going back
my fpv system and radio I use has enuff range to use anywere on my property and then some I think it's 1200 ft not enuff to run up to the neighbors house but enuff to get around the property

as for helis I can hover in one spot and I can crash them that's about it like drones I just can't wrap my head around them

]
 
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ELRS flies out 30 miles if your video tx is powerful enough to give video signal range... not easy. But I've been out about a mile from my house with video and radio range and made it home in one piece. &#55357;&#56899; The hours on the bench with many tiny solder wires and flight controllers exhausted me though, so back to easy peezy crawling for a bit. When I've really had it... just roll out the trx4 and bash crawl without caring one bit!
 
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