• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

LiPo minimum charge

BP6666VR

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Feb 19, 2022
Messages
129
Location
Batam Island, Indonesia
Gentleman, i am in need of some guidance

I have a 1/8 scale crawler and it can take 2S & 3S battery, so before it broke down the RC ran until no more power, is there is a cut-off point set in the ESC?

I bought a buzzer alarm as per attached picture

My question is, what is the minimum voltage to set the following batteries

ACG-3S-6400
11.1 volt
1P
79C
71.04 Wh

++++++++++++++

ANTIX-2S-9000
7.6 volt
45C
68.4Wh

It's confusing, how does the ESC know what the cut-off voltage is ?

What would be the alarm setting in that small gadget, and why ?
569109425d30def4407d9b8d02de8584.jpg


Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
You need to read the manual and don't put one of them stupid lipo alarms on the rig.

The manual will tell you how to set the esc for your specific battery or it auto-detects it depending on the esc and has a built in cut off. If it has levels for the cut off don't use the lowest voltage setting. Stay on the middle setting, loose a few minutes run time before cut off but you get more uses out of your pack.

Also, seeing as you have no knowledge of using a lipo battery, you need to spend some serious time with Google, especially when the question you ask is the one most important number to know because once you over discharge, that pack is trash.

However the lowest safe voltage is dependant on the pack. Some packs say 3.0v. Others 3.6v and anywhere in between.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 
I use those alarms in my transmitter that I converted to lipo. They alarm at 3.3v per cell, but you can change it (you have to change it every time you plug it in though). That's a fine emergency setting. I think my castle esc's cut off at 3.4v. Don't leave a battery plugged in after either of those things happen.... when the cells get below a certain voltage they won't wanna charge without some unrecommended intervention.
 
You need to read the manual and don't put one of them stupid lipo alarms on the rig.

The manual will tell you how to set the esc for your specific battery or it auto-detects it depending on the esc and has a built in cut off. If it has levels for the cut off don't use the lowest voltage setting. Stay on the middle setting, loose a few minutes run time before cut off but you get more uses out of your pack.

Also, seeing as you have no knowledge of using a lipo battery, you need to spend some serious time with Google, especially when the question you ask is the one most important number to know because once you over discharge, that pack is trash.

However the lowest safe voltage is dependant on the pack. Some packs say 3.0v. Others 3.6v and anywhere in between.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the good info, i have started 1 complete folder of information regarding this RC, printed and writing all information needed for this new hobby

Yes i read the manual of the RC a few times, but because it's a hobbywing 880 ESC so the setting is a bit weird, see the picture below, it was suggested to change it for a later model ESC

I have spend hours watching videos on charging Lipo and storing Lipo batteries, writing it all down in a book

After reading this i will use the 3.6 volt per cell setting

ACG3S-6400 - 3*3.6 = 10.8 volt

Only the ANTIX battery came with a manual, and thanks for pointing out, i read the section this 2S cannot discharge below 6.6volt so 3.3volt per cel, i will use your information 3.6 volt

ANTIX2S-9000 - 2*3.6 = 7.2 volt

I only had the RC for a week when the receiver broke down, so i balance change the lipo's and then the next day discharge by "storing" setting on the charger untill i will receive many spare parts i ordered on AliExpress... Hope i can fix the RC before i fly to work again....

Again many thanks for all the explanations and help

Regarding the voltage alarm ( don't shoot me i bought 4 piece ), because i have the Hobbywing 880 i cannot program any settings, it would seem logical for a newbie like me to use this device until I get my head around everything... Maybe i will change the ESC for a better one, then i can program all the settings like you guys do
beb0f4b2bc117534d6ed2507c1e42aa6.jpg


Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
I use those alarms in my transmitter that I converted to lipo. They alarm at 3.3v per cell, but you can change it (you have to change it every time you plug it in though). That's a fine emergency setting. I think my castle esc's cut off at 3.4v. Don't leave a battery plugged in after either of those things happen.... when the cells get below a certain voltage they won't wanna charge without some unrecommended intervention.
Thanks for replying, yes after reading the manual in section DISCHARGING part of the ANTIX lipo it states 2S damage irrevocable= 6.6 volt so as suggested above i will set the alarm on

3S = 10.8volt
2S = 7.2 volt

learning a lot for this new hobby.... it's really a fun crawler 1/8 scale YK4082

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Alarms are good for using in transmitters, they are just another thing to short out at the first sign of water on a crawler though.

Since the ESC has a lipo setting, it has a lipo cut off. Manual should say somewhere how that functions.

Final thing, upgrade to a hobbywing 1080 esc. You don't get better bang for buck for a brushed esc. Programmable in all regards especially full settings for a crawler (drag brake, etc). They are about $50. Probably the best thing one can do to any stock rtr crawler.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 
Alarms are good for using in transmitters, they are just another thing to short out at the first sign of water on a crawler though.

Since the ESC has a lipo setting, it has a lipo cut off. Manual should say somewhere how that functions.

Final thing, upgrade to a hobbywing 1080 esc. You don't get better bang for buck for a brushed esc. Programmable in all regards especially full settings for a crawler (drag brake, etc). They are about $50. Probably the best thing one can do to any stock rtr crawler.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Ok your the second person telling me this, so i will do so, i will fix the RC, fly to work and order the part,

So when i come back i can install it ...

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
Found the ESC on AliExpress.... What is the difference between Hobbywing 1080 and the 80 Amp they stating , is this the correct one ?

€ 43,96 44%OFF | Hobbywing QuicRun 1:10 1/8 WP Crawler Brush Brushed 80A 1080 Electronic Speed Controller Waterproof ESC With Program box LED BEC
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqgVbei

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
The HobbyWing 1080 is an 80A rated ESC - the one in your link is what you want, just pick the battery connector type you are using and order it.
 
The 880 is a more powerful, 4s capable version of the 1080. I think BEC is weaker, and it looks less cool.
But it is programmable with a 1080 program card! Thing you got doesn't seem like an 880 to me...

I would use the highest cutoff setting if you get the 1080. You won't lose much runtime, but it will be much better for your batteries.
 
The 880 is a more powerful, 4s capable version of the 1080. I think BEC is weaker, and it looks less cool.
But it is programmable with a 1080 program card! Thing you got doesn't seem like an 880 to me...

I would use the highest cutoff setting if you get the 1080. You won't lose much runtime, but it will be much better for your batteries.

Hi @ninomaniac

This is a bit confusing, first off see the picture below of the ESC i have in the RC, is it a 880 or you guys don't think so ?

And your saying that it is better or more powerful, but not programmable?

Is the 1080 not better ? I wouldn't care less if it looks less cool, ha ha

Ok i wil DEFINITELY keep the cutoff on the highest setting as a few posts above mentioned .... especially coz i have 2 lipo for this RC that's enough runtime for us, the RC only takes 2$ & 3$ lipo no 4$ can be put inside

I think like others said the programming will make the RC much more fluent or responsive, like others say "transform the RC ?"

Seems changing from the 880 to the 1080 is not very complicated, and you guys are very helpful to me .... I hope .....

I will post the details of the RC here below

Quote;
Electronic equipment:

the clawer is characterized by a 880 ESC for both climbing and off-road operation, a drag brake rate of 50% by factory default, a powerful 775 black leather motor which has been frequently tested and adjusted by the manufacturer and a low torque. The upgraded servo features 25KG full metal gears and aluminum alloy servo arms. The remote control receiver is intergated with original 6-channel light control



143aea0591826ca50fdf2139bfcd07db.jpg


Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
Nice! So, it's just as good (better in some ways) as a 1080, you just need a LED program card. Too bad this one can't be programmed with a button :(
 
Nice! So, it's just as good (better in some ways) as a 1080, you just need a LED program card. Too bad this one can't be programmed with a button :(
Will this programmer work for the 880 ESC ?

€ 21,59 47%OFF | HOBBYWING 3in1 3 IN 1 3in 1 V2 Multifunction LCD Program Box program card (Integrated w/ USB adaptor Lipo Voltmeter
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKxAWmW

Sent from my CPH1937 using Tapatalk
 
The 3in1 programmer manual indicates it is for brushless ESCs only. I couldn't find any info indicating it could be used to program a brushed ESC.

So, what Durok indicated is the ESC programmer you want for a brush ESC.

A little info for you with my experience with the WP1080. The LVC setting is "low", "medium", and "high", no actual voltage number to choose from. I started out at "low" and used a separate voltage alarm set at 3.3V per cell and plugged in to the balance plug. The alarm sounded before the ESC cut power so I tried it at the "medium" setting. Same thing again. Set the LVC to "high" and it cut power at about 3.4V-3.5V per cell so that's the setting I've used ever since. I have a couple of the WP1080s and they seem to be pretty much the same as each other. Just my personal experience . . . . . . . .
 
My 1080-bundled program box works on a MAX10SCT, Arrma's BLX185 and another rebranded 150A HW esc... and my 880, obviously. So I think the blue box above should work on brushed ESCs.
 
Back
Top