• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Lets 3D print a Bronco Concept Body.

Ditchrat

RCC Addict
Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
1,291
Location
Price Twp.
Well it is time to move forward one a new adventure. I have printed all types of parts, designs of my one an a Sami body, but it is time to print something challenging.


I found this Ford Bronco concept body on Pinshape.com. https://pinshape.com/items/44866-3d-printed-bronco-concept-rc-body The file costs $13.00, which considering it is done it worth the time to not have to design. The design looks good and I don't have a problem supporting someone else for doing the work.


container_bronco-concept-rc-body-3d-printing-200619.jpg
 
First up is picking a filament. PLA is to soft to sand, ABS is to temperamental at my skill/equipment level, so PETG will be my plastic of choice.


I have had really great success using Amazon basic PETG, but for this project I am going to use Hatchbox 1.75 in silver. Hatchbox is, in my opinion, a much better product due to a more consistent diameter and lack of spooling knots.


Silver because it is not going to be a shelf queen, so I want scratches to have a natural feel. Not the rusty busty look, but I just F#$%ed up my truck today look.



51S%2Bd-9DDwL._SX342_.jpg



Filament has been ordered and we will start the slow adventure when it arrives.
 
What slicer are you using?
Curious if the file is whole or needs a run thru meshmaker.


Hang up and Drive


About 30 files already to go. I will be using Cura for slicing and as soon as I get the filament in I will post all my machine settings, and print settings.


I plan on doing this for each print as well as sharing my profile, and any changes made as a result of comments.
 
I'll be staying tuned for this. That body looks great. I have not jumped in to the 3D printing realm yet, but it seems eminent!
 
I can't wait to see how this turns out. I have been toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer for home use, this may push me over the edge.
 
I'll be staying tuned for this. That body looks great. I have not jumped in to the 3D printing realm yet, but it seems eminent!

I can't wait to see how this turns out. I have been toying with the idea of getting a 3D printer for home use, this may push me over the edge.




Well then let me start with the basics of the project.
I will be using a creality CR-10 with only a few minor mods. They are not the best printer, but not bad either. They are currently retailing at $350.00 although I picked up mine on sale for $200.00.

51IBoIX-tHL._SX342_.jpg



Mods:

  • I upgraded the fans air flow using this airflow optimizer. It did make a huge difference to my print quality. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127
  • Larger leveling nuts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2554231
  • Both fans have been replaced with a better quality pair, after I did something stupid and broke a fan blade.
  • Borosilicate glass bed-bar none the best upgrade to improve printing. If you don't start level everything else is a just a band-aid.
That's it currently, other then replacing nozzles as they wear, bowden tube, bowden tube connects, and preventative maintenance. It runs 16-20 hours per day 4-5 days a week since march of 2018.



Software/profiles:

  • Ultimaker's Cura. It's free and does support the CR-10, although it s definitely designed for their makerbot machines. Work pretty good, and you can't beat the price.
  • Stock profiles are actually pretty good. However to start with I am using Sans Tube's profiles, found on the Sans tube FB page and a few from the CR-10 FB page. Once I run the first print and get the settings nailed down I'll be more specific. If I find a file hosting site, Ill link the profile used.
 
Definitely looking forward to seeing this progress! So the body will be 13 separate pieces when you're finished printing?

BTW I love my Hatchbox silver PETG.
 
Well then let me start with the basics of the project.
I will be using a creality CR-10 with only a few minor mods. They are not the best printer, but not bad either. They are currently retailing at $350.00 although I picked up mine on sale for $200.00.

51IBoIX-tHL._SX342_.jpg



Mods:

  • I upgraded the fans air flow using this airflow optimizer. It did make a huge difference to my print quality. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127
  • Larger leveling nuts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2554231
  • Both fans have been replaced with a better quality pair, after I did something stupid and broke a fan blade.
  • Borosilicate glass bed-bar none the best upgrade to improve printing. If you don't start level everything else is a just a band-aid.
That's it currently, other then replacing nozzles as they wear, bowden tube, bowden tube connects, and preventative maintenance. It runs 16-20 hours per day 4-5 days a week since march of 2018.



Software/profiles:

  • Ultimaker's Cura. It's free and does support the CR-10, although it s definitely designed for their makerbot machines. Work pretty good, and you can't beat the price.
  • Stock profiles are actually pretty good. However to start with I am using Sans Tube's profiles, found on the Sans tube FB page and a few from the CR-10 FB page. Once I run the first print and get the settings nailed down I'll be more specific. If I find a file hosting site, Ill link the profile used.

Thanks for the info! Thats actually one of the printer models I was looking at.
 
Very cool. So, if I'm able to find this unit for at or around the $200, how much more should I budget for the mods you mentioned? Thanks for the INFO!"thumbsup"
 
Very cool. So, if I'm able to find this unit for at or around the $200, how much more should I budget for the mods you mentioned? Thanks for the INFO!"thumbsup"


Glass was about 20, search amazon for the bed size you are considering. The rest are free as in you print them yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Wisamic-310x...F8&qid=1549045424&sr=8-17&keywords=glass+cr10


Definitely looking forward to seeing this progress! So the body will be 13 separate pieces when you're finished printing?

BTW I love my Hatchbox silver PETG.

The body itself or all the mounts, light boxs, ect?
28 separate files, some printed multiple times. It is super detailed. For example it has four door hinges, 2 tailgate hinges, 2 hood hinges, door handles, mirrors, a full interior, seats, was are talking files to complete a super scale rig. I'm going to nerd out on this one, even if it completely drives like shyte its going to be a looker.

So I haven't gone through every file yet, no point until I have the PETG and turn the machine for the new spool. However from what I can see it is 2 main files for the body, a few more for the cab/windshield.
 
Last edited:
So, in terms of the raw materials, what would something of this scale cost to print approximately?
 
So, in terms of the raw materials, what would something of this scale cost to print approximately?


Less the the $24.00 spool of material. But honestly I don't know, but I will be using this spool only for this project. I could weight it when Im done, I could also play with cura, which has a calculator that figures out the price each part costs, by telling it the cost per meter.


I'll keep it in mind and we will find out together.
 
Im watchin this one lol. I like the looks of the new bronco. Cant wait to see how it turns out

Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk
 
I did some digging and this is a model of the 2004 concept, not the concept from the 2019 model.
It was also in the move Rampage with the Rock. Knowing, I think it is going to be done as exact to that truck as I can get. Silver base, grey primer then a grey/silver topoat.

7858e03e46b165629b0a04cc737a6a58.jpg


a5c2101e367861714db0bfe88f63aa36.jpg


edba265b1d4082b230851f8c316d64a7.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
PETG arrived yesterday, so last night I made some changes to the slicer, re-leveled the bed and changed the z axis offset so the PETG doesnt get smashed down as much as the PLA I typically run.
nozzle=0.8
Layer height=0.08
Bed temp=60
Nozzle=235
Flow=100
retraction=7mm @ 60mm/s
top layer=3
(I should have enabled ironing)
Complete profile available on request.
Print time 5hrs

Over all the print came out a little rougher the I expected, I need to change a few things. One thing I notice about PETG is that it doesn't do the fine stringy thing. The fines seem to stay with the nozzle until they collect enough mass to fall or blow off as a blob.

Here are a few pictures straight off the printer. I tried and get images that showed off the flaws, maybe someone will see a issue and suggest an adjustment.

357de77250858b2b2642b699b21e97df.jpg


7d1d036ded5b45716893542e8a03af3a.jpg


53c155ce1d4dac038013c5b8a4f6702e.jpg


Here a a picture with only the really noticeable imperfections removed. A coat of sanding/filling primer has been applied. I really like this type of paint as not only is it something to fill and sand, every little flaw stands out. Next step will be to come in with a knife and cut off any little blob or flaw. After that Ill coat it again before starting the wet sanding process.
1c497fc959bde73739bc5293da2117ea.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Try dropping down to 45 or 40. That will also slow down the first layer to about 20. Speed usually will make the difference , I’m never been impressed with ironing in cura


Hang up and Drive
 
Back
Top