Lead Free Solder Sucks!!!

[picklewagon]

I've been soldering RC's for quite some time-longer than I'd like to admit really. I'm talking soldering cells of matched Sanyo nicad's for gold tub RC10's when I was a kid. While I am not an expert, and don't have the steadiest hand or the patience to get it perfect, I'm an average hobby solder-er. Last night I couldn't get brushed motor tabs to tin, not at all. My Hakko 936 was cranked and nothing! I was completely frustrated until I realized I loaned my iron to my Pops, he replaced the solder he used up with lead free electronics solder and I didn't notice. Today I bought some 60/40 fine rosin core and POW, pretty, shiny, strong solder joints. I ruined a set of FXR's trying to smash them with this lead free crap... Just a warning- if your one of those that has a tough time soldering, check your heavy metals and get the good stuff!

 

[Olle P]

From a user point of view the main difference between leaded and lead free soldeing is the melting temperature.
Leaded soldering melts at ~250C (IIRC) while lead free needs >300C.

That makes leaded soldering easier to use without destroying the parts soldered.

 

[el_Fernando]

I suck azz at soldering and dread it each and everytime I have to do it. I even bought a Hakko 888d and I still suck. Please recommend us some delicious leaded solder. Can any good stuff be bought at Lowes, Home Despot or Orchard Supply?

 

[badhoopty]

radio shack rosin core.

 

[TEDROCKZ]

I suck azz at soldering and dread it each and everytime I have to do it. I even bought a Hakko 888d and I still suck. Please recommend us some delicious leaded solder. Can any good stuff be bought at Lowes, Home Despot or Orchard Supply?

Any good 60/40 rosin core will suffice. If you have a radio shack close by their solder is pretty good for general hobby use.
Higher end stuff is a bit better but you probably need to really good at soldering to recognize the differences. I use Kester "44" 63/37 myself, just because I found a bulk deal for 8 one pound rolls for like 20 bucks. I give most of it away. A single roll will last for a VERY long time in rc/hobby use.

As far as lead free I bet many of ESCs will get fried with people trying to solder, smash, repair etc. super heating a whole board trying to get factory soldering undone:ror:

 

[grisham0317]

So this sounds like my problem. I am trying to switch to Deans's connectors and the insulation starts to melt and still couldn't tin the types of the wire.

 

[z50king]

Lead is best, just like in gas and paint. It's a soft metal

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[Wade]

And it smells better too :shock:

 

[JokersWild]

And it smells better too :shock:

That's what she said.:mrgreen:

 

[mrG]

My local Orchard supply usually has the 63/37 stuff. It has an even lower melting point than the 60/40. Everyone should read this on rctech.


How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson) - R/C Tech Forums

 

[losikid]

63/37 is easier to use than 60/40 and a lot easier to use than lead free

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-...UTF8&qid=1426299451&sr=8-2&keywords=kester+44

And, make sure to use FLUX. Do yourself a favor and get a flux pen

Kester 186 Soldering Flux Pen Rosin, Low-Solids, Lead Free, 10ml: Power Soldering Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

And after you're done clean the residual flux off the connector/circuit board/whatever with isopropyl alcohol