LCG Chassis, Belt Drive & Dig on Redcat Portals

[psn]

Some images below of my new build. The Injora/Amazon belt drive unit has been adapted to the Amazon SCX10 dig trans. Had to steal the top shaft from the Builders Kit SCX10 trans to make it work. Chassis is the $59 PowerHobby LCG chassis meant for the SCX10 and it is of good quality and very adjustable. Axles are the Gen 7 kit Portals kit. These axles are key to making things work because their 2/1 ratio at the portals should more than compensate for the much taller/faster belt drive ratio.

 

[smog]

The belt drive is neat. Any particular reason it is in your build?

 

[701 Technique]

Looks great!

I have one of the belt drive setups as well, but haven’t used it. I am curious if it will act as a sort of “drivetrain saver” if you get hung up. I would imagine the belt will slip off if you get bound up at the tires. Be interested to know how it works out for you

 

[psn]

The belt drive is neat. Any particular reason it is in your build?

#1 reason is that it is super quiet and smooth similar to a belt drive touring car.
It is also easy to set up... just keep a little play in the belt and it is done. Like settting the tension on an alternator belt

 

[psn]

Looks great!

I have one of the belt drive setups as well, but haven’t used it. I am curious if it will act as a sort of “drivetrain saver” if you get hung up. I would imagine the belt will slip off if you get bound up at the tires. Be interested to know how it works out for you

There are flanges on each pulley so it is unlikely to come off. With big power and a bind situation the belt's cogs would be the first thing to go IMO

 

[ferp420]

i dont understand the belt drive
why switch to a inferior set up with more moving parts to fail and more resistance and more heat and lower run times it just dosent make any sence

 

[psn]

i dont understand the belt drive
why switch to a inferior set up with more moving parts to fail and more resistance and more heat and lower run times it just dosent make any sence

Ive heard this stuff about the belt drive but havent run this exact setup yet.
Either way, Im having fun trying new configurations and this is what has kept me going since 2004.

 

[ferp420]

Ive heard this stuff about the belt drive but havent run this exact setup yet.
Either way, Im having fun trying new configurations and this is what has kept me going since 2004.

i gave up on belt driven rcs in the 80s i still have some touring car chassies from back then but they have mostly been picked over for parts for my non belt driven rigs

nothin wrong with havin fun i build alot of rigs i know wont perform just for fun some times they surprize me though

i dident think they had a belt drive for the 3 gear in 2004 but hay i could be wrong maybe for the rc10 ?

 

[psn]

I think the TLT had a belt way back then. The SCX belt unit is from within the past 4 or 5 years? If it sucks it's only $15 lost, no biggie.

The build is coming along nicely going older school with some 5" 2.2 Rock Claws. Now just waiting for the SOA mount

 

[ferp420]

if nothin else its a good lookin rig

 

[smog]

Agreed, it's a good looking build. That last photo of the clear body mounted up shows a great perspective on it.

 

[tigris99]

i dont understand the belt drive
why switch to a inferior set up with more moving parts to fail and more resistance and more heat and lower run times it just dosent make any sence

Being what I do for a living i can tell you that your thoughts on a belt drive are pretty far off an outdated.

There is only the belt if you want to consider an extra moving part unless there is something goofy with that pulley (doesn't look to be).

There isn't any more friction or heat by using belt drive at all. Issues come from set up, mainly belt being too tight.

Major upside to belt drive, no dealing with spur gears that are way out of round making life hell to properly set gear lash.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[ferp420]

Being what I do for a living i can tell you that your thoughts on a belt drive are pretty far off an outdated.

i dont know what you do for a living but heres my thinking on it

There is only the belt if you want to consider an extra moving part unless there is something goofy with that pulley (doesn't look to be).

thats a extra part 1/3rd more and one that dosent do to well in the durabulity or longevity department

exspecialy were i live

There isn't any more friction or heat by using belt drive at all. Issues come from set up, mainly belt being too tight.

there are 2 points of contact compaired to 1 with gears and to add to that the belt drag on the flange is a contact point as well that hurts its efficency as well i was tought you loose 3-5% per contact point having 2 is more a loss than 1 point but last class i took was 30 years ago so

Major upside to belt drive, no dealing with spur gears that are way out of round making life hell to properly set gear lash.

ive never had that problem unless the parts were home made



on top of all that weather my thinking is right or not
that pully is bulky and looks heavy

theres no gearing options

and other questions i have would be

how long is that belt gona last

how will it hold big power if its not tight

how much streach is there how often am i gona have to adjust it to keep it in its sweet spot

were and how much are replacement belts

 

[kistner]

were and how much are replacement belts

I have a couple non-crawler rcs, HPI RS4 Rally & HPI RS4 MT, don't really run them much. This is a main concern why. They don't make these belts any longer.

The flip side of that is that happens to a lot of rcs, had to buy a repop of a bulkhead for an old Losi recently.

Run 'em till you can't?

Back on point, never had any particular trouble with the belts on those or a Tamiya I have. An occasional rock or twig in wrong spot really slows them down. But I've had that happen with gear driven rcs too.

 

[psn]

if nothin else its a good lookin rig

Thanks

On the opposite end of the spectrum here is a trommel build with a 750 motor, reduction unit and chain drive

 

[Gula]

I "think" that a belt drive would be much stronger. My reasoning is that the belt has more contact with the "spur and pinion" as it's wrapped around each pulley. Gear teeth have a tiny contact patch. I have purchased one of these too. I want to "see" how silent it is.

 

[psn]

it is quiet, but be prepared for the taller/faster 13/36 ratio. Redcat sells the portal axle kit for the Gen 7 and with it also supplies a taller/faster pinion/spur to bring speed back. Im doing the opposite here, using the axles to slow things down. AFAIK these axles are the only ones that offer 2/1 reduction at portal section?

https://www.redcatracing.com/products/rer13366?variant=32461446676570

 

[ferp420]

Thanks

On the opposite end of the spectrum here is a trommel build with a 750 motor, reduction unit and chain drive



/QUOTE]
holly poop !


that makes me miss the sheet metal shop



to cool for me yo i hope you share some of that shinny goodnees in action

 

[psn]

gettin' there waiting for paint to dry!

 

[psn]

a new DrIsotope video running the belt, good info here...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxpLi8HEDOM