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Lack of torque. Is it the motor or battery?

crawler_noob

Newbie
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
47
Location
Houston
Hey guys I'm new to crawling so I'm not sure what is happening.

I just got a holmes 35t motor and installed it. Every now and then when crawling it seems to die, esp. when stuck in a tight spot that requires alot of torque. The wheels will stop spinning as if there is not enough torque to continue to spin the wheels. Right out of the package the motor didn't do this it would just spin the wheels until they got enough traction to propel the vehicle forward, but about 45 minutes into crawling this started happening.

My question is, I'm not sure if this is because the motor doesn't have the torque im asking from it, or if the battery might be running out of juice and doesn't have enough power to produce the torque to spin the wheels.:?:
PLEASE let me know what ya'll think, you would be helping a fellow crawler, like I said I'm new to crawling to I'm trying to build some knowledge as to what is happening. Don't want to burn up my new motor.

using a 2s lipo 30c 5000mah
 
What speed control are you using? If the speed control has automatic lipo shutoff, it will interrupt the throttle as a warning that your battery is getting low. It is a bad idea to completely drain a lipo battery, as it will kill it for good. Try a fresh pack and see if that fixes it. Hope this helps."thumbsup"
 
If the battery is charged, then its possible you already did fry it. Sometimes when you short an armature, they will still sorta work until you put them in heavy binds....it will continue to worsen as you use it if this has happened until it will have trouble moving the wheels.

I would contact Holmes Hobbies and see if they can guide you through some tests to figure it out.

Later EddieO
 
Your 30C 5000mah pack should have enough punch to it.

I would look to either your motor, ESC or possibly radio settings.

What battery plugs are you running, Tamiya's tend to get worse when loaded up.
 
Your 30C 5000mah pack should have enough punch to it.

I would look to either your motor, ESC or possibly radio settings.

What battery plugs are you running, Tamiya's tend to get worse when loaded up.


Tamiya to Deans I'm thinking this might be PART of the problem. I know this has given me problems before. Working on it right now

Its not the battery because i just fully charged it and still same problem.
 
I got similar problems in my rig when the motor got really hot. (The magnets get less "magnetic" when they heat up.)

It gets hot if you have it run on high torque most of the time, which in my case was caused primarily by the combination of worm drives and pinion too tight against the spur wheel.
 
My Wraith was doing the same thing and it was the junk tamiya connector that Axial uses on the rtr rigs.

Complete garbage. I changed it out for a Deans and it works perfect now.

74b7d4a2.jpg
 
Do you have an external BEC? Could also be that the steering servo is pulling enough juice that when you get things bound up, the ESC shuts down trying to supply enough juice to the motor and servo. Also make sure you've got a small enough pinion so you don't overload the motor. I'm not sure what truck you're running it on, but for my axial rigs I run 16t pinion or less, depending on the terrain.
 
Last edited:
tightened slipper clutch, MUCH BETTER, although i can still get the motor to stall under more than normal stress, but it doesnt whine or slip like before.
 
Like before I tightened the spur gear nut, and its 90% better but that other 10% of the time the motor will stall. It's not the spur gear slipping, as there is no whining coming from the rig. Atleast I don't think, but I'm not really sure what's going on. I'm guessing lack of torque from the motor or something like that.

Axial wraith stall AFTER fixing spur gear nut - YouTube

PLEASE feel free to share your knowledge and wisdom with a noob.
 
my wraith did the same thing on 2s batteries. be very careful it will burn the motor up QUICK! i let the smoke out of an integy 35t in about 15 minutes. putting the rig in binds like that draws a huge amount of power thru the motor. the stock motor (20t) went up in smoke in about 5 seconds in a bind like that.

what i learned is the stock gearing sucked for crawling. i switched to a 18t pinion, 87t spur and this helped a bunch. still would get bound up like your video but wasn't nearly as often and had alot more slow speed control. then i switched over to 3s batteries and no more stalled motors!!! what did happen to mine tho was after all this i couldn't keep motor temps down. i drilled holes in the interior to let in/out air to try and cool the motor but this only helped a little. i finally went brushless on my wraith and it was the best thing i ever did for it. cool temps, tons of power, better wheelspeed, and the slow speed control was better.
 
Nice, I've been thinking brushless, because the wheel speed is too slow on this 35t, for me at least. Not to mention with a 16t pinion gear, (TRYING to keep temps down) still running stock spur though.

I also was thinking a 3s lipo might give me that extra power I'm looking for, but I'm not sure if the stock ESC will be able to handle the 3s. Know anything about that?
 
2 ways to go bout this... the CC bec is it running the servo or does he have it plugged into the bec port on the receiver.

1. CC bec from factory is set at 5.1 or 5v i know its low... the hitec 645 should be run at 6v.
2. if his bec at 5.1 or 5 is running the receiver then its not getting enough juice when he punches its coz.. servo,esc,motor... so something is gona have to cut out :)

i hope this helps
 
The stock esc is only rated to 2s lipo, but I have, and am running 3s on mine. Alot of people do this. The bec should be fine as my bec is set to 5.1 volt (factory setting) and is powering my jr z9000t.
 
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