K10 dually build start

[Jfrisch1]

Traded for this Scottsdale a while back and haven’t done much to it besides the ladder rack and a more powerful servo.

Posting because I’d like to hear some insight from some of you all who have done a lot of work on hardbodies. I’ve done some in the past, while they looked decent I was never 100% happy with them. Going to add shrinkrc regular width dually fenders.

Pretty sure I’ve used CA glue before to add a cowl to my old hardbody and shorten the bed. Is that an ok glue? Or is there better now?

Along with the dually fenders, I’ve got another set of Rc4wd rally wheels coming, dually adapters, another set of Rc4wd bfgs. Couldn’t decide on any of the limited choices for dually wheels so I’m gonna give the stock wheels a shot and see if I like them.

While I’m at it I’ll add an engine bay and other scale stuff to bring this hardbody some life. It was either this or I build model kits, and they just sit so this is far more enjoyable.

Parts will roll in this week and I’m ready to get it started. Gonna pull this wraith around for next years g6 in Missouri. My trailer had to be adjusted to fit the big ol rig, so I cut off the side rails, but left the front bars. I also wanna add a scale wood floor to the trailer while I’m at it.

 

[Jfrisch1]

Shrinkrc dually fenders showed up a day early. Little tape moc up. Idk if it’s standard but I’m gonna trim the bed to open the fender well up some more.

Fit is outstanding just right away. Small adjustment needed for the bottoms but that’s about it.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Dually builds are always cool.

 

[89Industries]

That truck is going to look sweet. Good base for the dually.

On the CA glue. I'm not an expert but if the body is styrene and the fenders are abs or styrene then they make specific stuff that actually melts the plastic together rather than just sticking together via adhesion of the glue to a surface.

Like the old Testors model glue but not as messy. Plastistruct plastic weld or Tamiya has some specific to the material.

Or MEK from the hardware store, or even ABS plumbers glue from the hardware store though its also very messy.

These will actually fuse the plastics together.

Others with more experience than I have should chime in or do a bit of searching both here and on the interwebs.

 

[high plains drifter]

Only thing I dislike about CA in many applications is that it has zero flex and eventually becomes brittle. Not sure what I'd use but not sure it would be CA.

 

[pwjm]

That truck is going to look sweet. Good base for the dually.

On the CA glue. I'm not an expert but if the body is styrene and the fenders are abs or styrene then they make specific stuff that actually melts the plastic together rather than just sticking together via adhesion of the glue to a surface.

Like the old Testors model glue but not as messy. Plastistruct plastic weld or Tamiya has some specific to the material.

Or MEK from the hardware store, or even ABS plumbers glue from the hardware store though its also very messy.

These will actually fuse the plastics together.

Others with more experience than I have should chime in or do a bit of searching both here and on the interwebs.

Can confirm, I use a MEK slurry to glue/repair my ABS prints.

This glue is also fantastic: SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement

Both options require a respirator and really good ventilation, unless you don't mind losing brain cells and or enjoy having cancer.

 

[Jfrisch1]

Mounted up a set of wheels and tires with the dually adapters I found. Had to do some trimming to them




That was so they cleared the beadlock screws and hexes on the back of the wheels. Everything is touching now and seated all the way.


I don’t know if I love my decision of the regular width flares. I might have to get the wider ones. Different angles make it look better.






Got all your suggestions on the adhesive, definitely gonna stay away from ca, I had that issue in the past. I’ve got the plasti weld stuff. Gonna swing by the hobby shop and grab some fresh stuff though. Mines years old.

 

[89Industries]

I think (but not 100% sure) that if there's still stuff in the plastiweld bottle that it still works.

I think it's like acetone that the way it stops working is it evaporates away so nothing is left.

 

[Jfrisch1]

I think (but not 100% sure) that if there's still stuff in the plastiweld bottle that it still works.

I think it's like acetone that the way it stops working is it evaporates away so nothing is left.

Oh we are good then. Cause it’s still half full. Thanks!

 

[high plains drifter]

I think the flares look good but I'd probably be itching at least compare them to the wider ones... as long as cost wasn't much of a factor. Still gonna look awesome either way.

 

[ferp420]

i vote for wider fenders

 

[Jfrisch1]

Wide fenders on the way!

Probably gonna toss my castle copperhead system in this truck along with an nsdrc servo. Thinking of also doing 2 speed trans while it’s all apart. Should be plenty of power/ torque to pull the heavy wraith around.

 

[Gula]

Before you glue, check for paint! Unless that body is just a solid blue plastic. Otherwise you'll have a mess

 

[Jfrisch1]

Well I made a mistake first, I had the front wheels to mock up the dually rear. The front hexes are thicker than the rears… so that didn’t help with the width in the rear. Once figured out it looks a whole lot better but I’m still gonna use the wide flares.

Also, ditched the beauty rings, I like these wheels so much more.






New wheels and tires mounted up along with the sweet Rc4wd hitch. Had to make a cross bar for the two rear holes of the hitch and trim the bumper some.




May try a new bumper with the receiver hitch but this looks more real so idk.

Hooks right up the trailer and I didn’t need a big drop hitch but it’s adjustable so that’ll be fine.

 

[Jfrisch1]

Some more pics including rear end ones.