• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Just another Twin...nuttin' to see here

89redranger

RCC Addict
Joined
Jan 25, 2009
Messages
1,577
Location
Bend
Got a fresh kit from my girlfriend for my birthday back in Januray. Been veeeery slowly putting this one together like I wished I had my last. All the fancy stuff.

Anywho, here's the parts list and a few progress pics. Nowhere near done...

Goodies-

-Twin Hammers kit

-Vanquish silver hood and roof light bar brackets

-Vanquish silver caster blocks and knuckles

-Vanquish silver trailing arms with Revo balls shimmed to fit and o-rings at the forward end to act as "wobble stoppers"

-RPM blue nylon Revo ends and hand polished 3/16" ti links throughout

-Ballstuds from a Traxxas Slash sway bar end link kit (TRA6895) at the knuckles to gain tire/wheel clearance, Axial thin M3 nuts (AXA1052) for jam nuts on the bottom

-Vanquish 1.9 Outlaw II wheels w/blue "Original" beadlock rings.

-Locked Up RC M3 threaded .185 hubs, M3x8 socket head cap screw wheel mounting hardware

-Axial 1.9 Ripsaws filled with CI Deuces Wild closed cells

-GCM upright tower/top plate

-Irie Products GCM compatible bell crank kit

-Hot Racing billet hinge pin brace

-Hot Racing billet clamping hex set

-Pro-Line Pro-Spec Scaler shocks: 90mm front, 110mm rear

-Vanquish silver SCX10 transmission case

-Billet Works Design (BWD) FOFF motor mount, reverse cut for mirrored transmissions

-Fast Eddy's M3x6x7 spacers

-Incision SCX10 slipper eliminator/top shaft

-Vanquish gun drilled chromoly idler gear shaft

-Incision SCX10 transmission gears

-Incision SCX10 transmission outputs

-Fast Eddy's SCX10 transmission bearing kit

-Traxxas #3956 54T Mod 0.8 spur gear

-Traxxas #3647 4mm flanged nuts- wheel nuts and used on transmission top shaft at slipper eliminator

Electronics-

-Castle Mamba X

-Castle Slate 3800KV

-Castle 10 amp BEC

-ProTek 370TBL "Black Label" servo with Exotek 25T 7075 Losi 22 servo horn (EXO1669)

Lots more to come...the parts list above will be updated as I go.

9250883c8ef6f39b601b0eca45355789.jpg
ffd9ac42a6a826f5fe28b508819c22f6.jpg
651b65f37ee04f695dfc0d047534d12c.jpg
4eb9b7b671f46a2db506582b3d4199f4.jpg
7eefd5e6de06bdbe516ec24381a5d02d.jpg
0d5b0cf6b09821efc5ed3fd8a2c3e1eb.jpg


Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Looking good young man!!! You always put together some nice looking trucks!
And by the way Brian, nice to see back on the site. "thumbsup"
Ernie
 
Looking good young man!!! You always put together some nice looking trucks!
And by the way Brian, nice to see back on the site. "thumbsup"
Ernie
Thanks Ernie! Hope all is well with you buddy. Been a while...

My last rig would have been a nice rig had I waited to beat on it long enough to see the end result. Instead, I was building and driving at the same time and it just never left me with the satisfaction I thought I should have got out of it for the money and time invested. That's where this car comes in. Doing it my way the first time, taking my time, and I won't be driving it until it's actually FINISHED.

No rush, no compromises, no bullshit.

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Like I said, looong slooow build...

Picked up some HR billet clamping hexes. Showed up this morning. Ordered an HR billet front hinge pin brace also, it'll be here in the morning.

Oh, also picked up a silver GCM tower and mounted a spare Irie bell crank kit to it. Never mind the springless Traxxas big bores. They're only there for mockup.

Need to do some cleanup...all this sitting has allowed the car to collect quite the dust mess.
bbaf78ec5ed4d5800276d96875527d85.jpg
5f4cc15ea465bf8b84d49c24e29d5a22.jpg
4c4a17b3ad46041389ea64ad21ba97d3.jpg


Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
My Hot Racing hinge pin brace showed up. Neat little piece really.

It's billet, so it won't break like the stock plastic unit. It replaces two parts with one, always a good idea. It offers more clearance from rocks due to a smaller outside profile. And lastly, it holds my hinge pins tight. No more spinning hinge pins to waller out the toe block. But, ream your a-arms or bind may occur.

10/10!
7c2a07f4ebf16150e3f90bec2076c58e.jpg
d76a464e3962715c4397de53de85824e.jpg
f7c259465462c51277d0428d320870e6.jpg
d58622d0e205f38da8f96071dbaf8016.jpg
debdcd651d0373d232e9f8cc58e5ed7f.jpg


Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Slow but steady Brian!!!"thumbsup"
Ernie
Yeah, well...we've also been a little preoccupied with our budget bush beaters. [emoji23]

And that's only going to get worse. Lift parts, tires, gears, and a few other goodies show up this coming week.
1cb0a7435d10672fd288fb7684943bb3.jpg


Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Making chiney parts...more chiney...

Waiting on drive shafts and some transmission parts...figure I may as well do something other than stare at it.

The GCM tower I picked up had been sitting on a garage shelf for a number of years before I bought it, though it had never been installed. These years of sitting amounted to some pretty wicked oxidation and some random "blowby" nastiness stuck to it. Figured I'd just give 'er the "Mothers and a buffball" treatment. Looks pretty good for about half an hour wrestling a cranky cordless drill with a f@wked up chuck.
b3946d075b91ad4cf698ac127dad3110.jpg


Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
A little more progress. Or money spent. Either way, something's happening here.

Made some hex and CVD pins with my daughter from K&S 0.062" music wire and picked up some blue beadlock rings and silver light bar brackets from Vanquish.

Also grabbed some of the new and improved Incision SCX10 trans gears and matching outputs, a set of TLR shock shaft pliers, and a couple pairs of Pro-line's new Pro Spec Scaler shocks. 90-95mm for the front, 105-110s for the rear.

It's gonna take a trick or two to make these shocks work properly with the GCM tower, but I have something up my sleeve there. More later...
7a5cbe3bd0063e64eedcf6acdb91c978.jpg
0d8c711ed297706e3c3b9cc6ddf3de7b.jpg
f1e9ddb9f3b8071e1888be9f7cde31b8.jpg
8b20e59939c2eb15ca783686e2e4181b.jpg
c154ffa19289bf4f369a6369f4dc97b2.jpg
1b1cdeb8547acd01b812d2c42c313fd5.jpg
818ef3cd118b3909cbbaa9dbe8330034.jpg
19153f338b3519da927e938acbe8af0d.jpg


Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
 
As usual, I get myself into these predicaments where this doesn't work with that, or that doesn't work with this...90mm shocks + GCM tower...same story. But I knew this.

Anywho, after measuring and measuring I have concluded that the absolute ideal shock lengths for this GCM tower would end up around 82mm at full droop and 59mm at full stuff. Well, the PL shocks work out to 90mm and 64mm. But...with a little trimming of the threaded end of the shock shafts I can BARELY clear a rod end that is 5mm shorter than the shortest that was included. This gives me a drooped length of 85mm and a compressed length of 59mm. Dead-on on the full stuff side of things. A 3mm spacer under the shock piston to limit droop travel will get me where I want to be on the droop side.

Anywho, I whipped up some application specific rod ends that fix this issue, include an integrated spring cup, fit the proprietary 6mm diameter (8 and 6mm wide) Vaterra pivot balls, and I went ahead and made a version to replace the rear while I was at it.

So...trim the front shock shafts 2mm, install these on the front and rear shocks, pop in the pivot balls made FOR the car, and I'll be off to the races...or not.

Sorry for the crappy pictures of pictures. Lol. My computer and phone don't play nicely.
179c4e43b21092aeb51de449f8e40fbf.jpg
414a3ddda28bda7de8720628c26cf83e.jpg


Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk
 
Picked up some more Vanquish goodies to go with that beautiful gear set and outdrives I bought from them a while ago. Combined with the custom cut mirrored Billet Works Design FOFF motor mount, it really made for a slick trans setup. Now, I need to order some aluminum motor mount spacers to replace the plastic Axial units and order some 32P spurs.
2497df76c4e7c46bdef05892eef90025.jpg
b968785e59fc9edad91cdf1777054d79.jpg
2dda19ff6321100e8052167fb3ed51e5.jpg
5ec991ea12606247e8778038b3a56083.jpg
38f540871740e515338208eb16a29673.jpg
b63b57fb62d9b010057a719020bef5a9.jpg


Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 
Picked up some more Vanquish goodies to go with that beautiful gear set and outdrives I bought from them a while ago. Combined with the custom cut mirrored Billet Works Design FOFF motor mount, it really made for a slick trans setup. Now, I need to order some aluminum motor mount spacers to replace the plastic Axial units and order some 32P spurs.
2497df76c4e7c46bdef05892eef90025.jpg
b968785e59fc9edad91cdf1777054d79.jpg
2dda19ff6321100e8052167fb3ed51e5.jpg
5ec991ea12606247e8778038b3a56083.jpg
38f540871740e515338208eb16a29673.jpg
b63b57fb62d9b010057a719020bef5a9.jpg


Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk


Looking good Brian!!! You are a slow but steady and efficient builder. Nice design work.

Ernie
 
Looking good Brian!!! You are a slow but steady and efficient builder. Nice design work.



Ernie
Thanks buddy.

Been at this one over a year.
Hit some snags, had it listed for sale, wouldn't let it go for $200 so it just sat...and sat. So lately I decided, screw it, I'm gonna finish it.

And here we are. [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 
That looks really good. Following this post since I'm a new TH owner myself. Not sure I'll go as far as you are but we'll see!
 
Thanks buddy.

Been at this one over a year.
Hit some snags, had it listed for sale, wouldn't let it go for $200 so it just sat...and sat. So lately I decided, screw it, I'm gonna finish it.

And here we are. [emoji23]

Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk

Hey Brian, was wondering how much the axial tranny changes your final gear ratio?
Ernie
 
Hey Brian, was wondering how much the axial tranny changes your final gear ratio?

Ernie
It really depends on what you run for a pinion/spur. I've never personally used the two speed. I gear them just like any other Axial rig though...gear for motor temps. This rig will be getting a 3800KV motor on 3s. The extra voltage should make up for the lack of a "high gear" and a low pinion/spur ratio should still allow it to crawl well. So the extra voltage should provide the split that the original trans ratios used to...without all the parasitic losses, mechanical complexity, and slop.

Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 
So, I was kind of curious of the difference in ratios myself...

Stock Twin Hammers transmission ratios-

Internal low- 4.05:1

Internal high- 2.27:1

Stock spur and pinion- 78T/28T=2.786:1

Total transmission ratios-

Low- 11.283:1

High- 6.324:1

Axial ratios-

Axial Internal Ratio- 2.6:1

54/13 32P spur and pinion...a seemingly popular 32P combo for the SCX10 trans and my starting point for tuning once this rig is completed- 4.154:1

Total Axial Trans Ratio- 10.8:1

So, with this spur/pinion combo it will be just a touch taller geared than the stock low range. If I had to guess, even with a 3800kv motor on 3s, I may end up running a little taller gearing in the end. Maybe something like 52T spur/15T pinion (3.467:1, 9.014:1 total).
 
Last edited:
While I'm here...I pulled the trigger on a ProTek 370TBL today. Also ordered an Exotek 7075 aluminum 25T servo horn spec'd for the Losi 22...a better version of the horn recommended for the Irie Products bell crank kit. Have a Castle 10 amp BEC sitting here ready to go in, and next I need to order my Mamba X/Slate motor.

Top shelf builds deserve top shelf electronics, right? :flipoff:
 
Got these GDS Racing drive shafts for my Twin Hammers today. Wasn't sure of their quality but took the gamble on them for $10.90 each. Overall the quality is awesome. And I love the fact that they are so slim and smooth.

But...they missed the mark on "phasing" the yokes. Each is just a few degrees off. Not sure what kind of, if any, vibrations this will cause but we'll see. My only other complaint is about the way they measure these. Most companies measure shaft lengths from the mounting pins/set screws. These are measured from the very ends of the yokes. As a result, my rear shaft is 10mm shorter than I thought. As a bonus, I thought I would have to do some trimming on the 70-80mm unit I ordered for the front but, it's almost dead-on where I wanted it.

So...I'll order a longer unit for the rear and save this 107-145mm unit as a backup. It will still work in the car, just has a little less slip spline engagement than I'd like. Only longterm testing will reveal the rest of what y'all will want to know.

BTW, these are not a direct bolt-in for a Twin Hammers...Vaterra's pinions and transmissions have short outputs with flats for set screws vs through holes and pin screws found on Axial's rigs...you will have to trim the little lip off the end of each yoke and use a single M4x4 set screw for mounting.
9fdb2335f903fb04fe84b424a213ccc2.jpg


Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top