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JC Auto Design - SCX10/AX10 Axle Truss, Panhard and CMS options

Well I was play in a little today doing a little testing with my scx10 and it ripped one of the screws right out of the plate that holds the pan hard bar to the frame what can I do to fix this when I put it in it never wanted to tighten down very much so now I'm stuck again :(

Can you post a picture to help explain what happened?
 
Can you post a picture to help explain what happened?

If I were to guess...he is talking about the screw that goes in from the side that attaches the CMS, bumper, and chassis rail. The screw that doesn't not use a rear lock nut, and just screws into the printed plate.

It this is so, the link that goes from the axle to the mount will have nothing to hold onto.

:'(
 
If I were to guess...he is talking about the screw that goes in from the side that attaches the CMS, bumper, and chassis rail. The screw that doesn't not use a rear lock nut, and just screws into the printed plate.

It this is so, the link that goes from the axle to the mount will have nothing to hold onto.

:'(

That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure...

Well I was play in a little today doing a little testing with my scx10 and it ripped one of the screws right out of the plate that holds the pan hard bar to the frame what can I do to fix this when I put it in it never wanted to tighten down very much so now I'm stuck again :(

Yup that's the one have not had a chance to take a picture

Sounds like the hole was a little too large to begin with. I will get a replacement in the mail this week. In the meantime, there's not much I can recommend to keep that screw in. There are some options if you need to make it to a comp, but may not be ideal.
 
Same for me.. It's been on the bench for a couple days as I try to figure something out.

I'll get a replacement (red, right?) for you sent out this week as well.

I'm printing these with thicker walls which should hold a thread better. Although, remember that this is threading into plastic, and you don't want to really crank down on the screw. You want the screw to be snug, enough to hold the piece, but not enough to deform it.
 
I'll get a replacement (red, right?) for you sent out this week as well.

I'm printing these with thicker walls which should hold a thread better. Although, remember that this is threading into plastic, and you don't want to really crank down on the screw. You want the screw to be snug, enough to hold the piece, but not enough to deform it.

Great, I love my whole set up with all your products!
 
Trying to order a Panhard truss and 4 link truss for $16 each but the site says $20 each.

I will send you a PM about your order.

The prices on the website are the most current, but I just noticed the second post still had info from the sale I ran a couple months back. I updated the second post to reflect the current prices.
 
So, i boiled hot water and mixed 1.5tsp to 1.5cups of boiling water and soaked em about 2 minutes.

Not ideal, still a little light in spots.

Didn't realize the links would need shortened though. Do you have a measurement of how much shorter they need to be?


Thanks again!
 
My trusses came in today! Picked up some rit black dye. Any suggestions on how? Soak it? Boil it? Wipe it on?


Sorry for the delayed response.

Basically follow the directions on the dye package... Here's what I do for the RULRs:

- Mix dye with water and bring to a low simmering boil (you don't want a rolling boil)
- Add plastic parts
- Stir every few minutes
- When the desired color is achieved, remove from dye-bath and rinse with cold water (this step can be messy, so make sure you are careful with the rinsing.)
- Let dry and enjoy!

Make sure the pot you use will only be used for this type of thing.

So, i boiled hot water and mixed 1.5tsp to 1.5cups of boiling water and soaked em about 2 minutes.

Not ideal, still a little light in spots.

Didn't realize the links would need shortened though. Do you have a measurement of how much shorter they need to be?


Thanks again!

You can throw the parts back in the dye for a while. I usually leave mine in for about 20-30 minutes or so to get the color right.

The links will need shortened by 3-5 mm depending on your geometry. Try 3mm to see if the pinion angle is where you want it to be, and adjust from there.
 
Panhard mount and rear axle trusses survived a 3/4 mile 255 gate pre-G6 prep event with flying colors!

Did require some spacing of the Blue Monkey CMS as well as servo winch mounting, but i'll be removing in in favor of your CMS and winch plates.
 
Ever thought about extended shock towers for us Big Bore guys and gals?? I would be interested in a set! They have the same travel as the stockers just the bodies are longer so they end up lifting the rig...
 
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