HumboldtEF's 10.2 SR5 Build

[HumboldtEF]

A few tiny updates

I put a CC cooling fan on the motor since I've been running in mud and dirt meaning driving with lots more wheelspeed than usual. I took my lights off of the aux switch and used it for the fan instead mainly because its annoying to listen to all the time, now I can just flip it on when I'm running it hard.

I busted out my rear taillight on the rocks, Super Scale "thumbsup"

I've got a new lense to fix it but I may keep it like this for a bit

I made some ice for my cooler out of some clearish plastic, maybe they're a bit too big I might cut up some more.

EDIT: heres some smaller pieces

Cutting the plastic into strips first makes this pretty quick and easy

EDIT: My mail order Beer finally arrived :mrgreen:

I may try to crush a few and put them in the bed. I'm not sure if the labels (which are stickers) will survive though

 

[soze]

Truck is looking great!

 

[AnimalHippie]

Great build bro! Really digging the yota & the custom tube bumpers!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Mail order beer - fancy! :ror:

Great idea with the ice cubes!

 

[HumboldtEF]

Here's a quick damage update after the Proline By the Fire event. I busted out nearly all of the Knight customs lenses on the truck, they were all glued on with CA, next time I'll try E6000 which I hope will stand up to a bit more abuse.

This rear light was already busted but now its completely gone

these were the only ones to survive though the blinker lens did crack

They're nice little touches for a lexan body but pretty damn fragile. I guess ideally some light guards should be built into the bumpers but I really dont want that look.

I've tried my best to live with the stock shocks but man do they leak fast! I may end up going with Proline's new scaler shocks but I'm still on the fence.

Oh and I always wanted some of the old style of KC Hilites and RC4WD just released some so I've ordered up a set (my name is Casey so these always stood out to me). I think I'll just use them without lights because they don't seem to have a lens under the protective covers. The Knight customs roll bar has 4 mounts for on top for light buckets which is where I'll be putting them.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

The lights looked good and the damage looks realistic. "thumbsup"

3D printed parts aren't up to the task. I insist on this - others will disagree. But molded parts, especially when they're nylon-based, are much tougher at this point.

 

[Rekreant]

Here's a quick damage update after the Proline By the Fire event. I busted out nearly all of the Knight customs lenses on the truck, they were all glued on with CA, next time I'll try E6000 which I hope will stand up to a bit more abuse.

This rear light was already busted but now its completely gone

these were the only ones to survive though the blinker lens did crack

They're nice little touches for a lexan body but pretty damn fragile. I guess ideally some light guards should be built into the bumpers but I really dont want that look.



I've tried my best to live with the stock shocks but man do they leak fast! I may end up going with Proline's new scaler shocks but I'm still on the fence.

Oh and I always wanted some of the old style of KC Hilites and RC4WD just released some so I've ordered up a set (my name is Casey so these always stood out to me). I think I'll just use them without lights because they don't seem to have a lens under the protective covers. The Knight customs roll bar has 4 mounts for on top for light buckets which is where I'll be putting them.

I’d recommend against the pro line scaler shocks as a lot of people I having issues with them leaking .

 

[HumboldtEF]

So I ended up saying to hell with this silly circle of logic with SCX10 shocks, People will often say well the stock shocks are nice and small and fit the scale ect. and end up writing off most all of the good options which leaves them with shit, and misses the point of upgrading them in the first place.
So to hell with size and scale I got some Gmade XD diaphragm shocks (85mm) and to be honest I dont mind the size at all and these actually work very well.

The truck is much much less bouncy, I love these shocks!


I painted the new lenses, painting the outside this time so that I'd be gluing to the plastic and not the paint. I think they came out better that way too.
I used E6000 instead of CA this time in the hope they can take a bit more abuse.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Well I was hesitant to fix my wheelbase because I didnt want my rear bumper getting hung up any easier but I shortened my wheelbase to 12" fit the SR5 body which should fit on paper but I've always felt the 12.3" wheelbase they list it as was wrong (too long). If you line up the front tires with the fender well the rear is too far back and vice versa and as far as I can tell the 1:1s line up and there is not a pushed forward front axle or anything.

Before (best side view I could find, so shiny and unscratched)

After the adjustment

I used some shorter rod ends on the lower links as well as trimming off 1/16" off the ends. For the upper links the rod ends were a different length which meant that instead of replacing both ends I needed to trim a 1/16" off of the stock inner rod ends (which I had to retain because without the curve they will bind on the tranny mount) along with using a short rod end trimmed down 1/16" on the axle side.

Oh and I forgot to mention the driveshaft was too long after this adjustment but I was able to trim 3/8" off of the inner male portion on one side as well as using a shorter female end (the main body is about 38mm) on that side, that came included with the Kit.

see the unscratched side

 

[HumboldtEF]

I've been sick with the flu this week and I'm finally feeling good enough to get back to some tinkering.

I had a few issues I wanted to resolve, fix the clearance issue inside my wheels and the clearance issue from the 85mm coil overs which lowered the truck a bit.

The SSD hub weights come with socket head screws to fasten them to the knuckle, the issue is that they stick out too much or the hole bored for them wasn't deep enough. I let it self clearance itself for a while. I believe these are still the stock hex's and no skinnier, but that's another factor to consider.

I had backed out one of the screws a few turns in this pic

Aluminum hub on the back of the wheel

I ground down one of the button heads so it fit in the hole only to realize its a m2.5 not and m3 At least I tested before grinding down 3 more.

Good news was that the m2.5 actually fit this hole, what do you know :lmao:

I played around with the LURC high cleareance panhard bar bending it to fit over the pumpkin, it comes already bent but I just tweaked it a bit to get a little more clearance.

In the end it needed more so I installed the shock bump stops that I had left out to get a bit more travel, its probably for the best because a full compression without them the piston is touching the diaphragm inside the shock.

With that done all of the clearance issues were solved!

Then I got to thinking about the front battery mount, I've always wanted to be able to lay my battery down instead of stand it up on its side. I liked the mount that Bowhouse RC made but it only fits a 35mm battery which is too small for mine.
I did some measuring and figured if I could scoot my servo all the way to the left (against the chassis rail and shock tower) that I could indeed fit my battery laying it down, its a 43 mm wide battery.

To scoot my servo over I took my servo mount (which is aluminum, made by Devil RC) and ground off a few mm so I could push it a bit closer to the chassis rail. On top of that I had to slot the servo holes a fair amount, I only slotted 3 of them as one corner would have been completely chopped off. Even with only 3 screw holding it down its still much more secure than a stock setup.

I cut up the stock battery box to the lowest point I could cut while still retaining the mount points to the chassis and servo side.
(the back is cut up so that I can hang my ESC off the side a bit)

The battery fit every so snugly so I continued and designed up an insert to go inside the stock battery tray to support the soft pack, I also incorporated a slot to run the velcro strap through.

Drill a few holes through the stock tray so I could mount it

Success!

I am considering redesigning this so its all in 1 piece and you dont need to reuse the stock battery tray.


Oh and I also swapped some traxxas rod ends onto the front end links which were still the terrible stock ends (the rear got an SSD 12" link kit a while back). I was able to do everything but the steering linkage as they needed some angled ends meant for m4 threads that I didn't have on hand. I'll be ordering a steering link kit from SSD soon.

Oh and I found a appropriate use for Axial end links...

Cut them up for spacers :lmao: I didn't have anything else to use for a m4 thread so this will do I suppose.

 

[soze]

After the adjustment

Ok, I don't know why I never noticed this, but what rear bumper bracket/mount are you using? I've been running bumper-less in the rear for the longest time, because the rear bumper needs to be higher up than the chassis is. Granted I've got the SR5 body on a CFX-W, but it should be the same problem with the SCX10.2.

 

[Bananaclip]

I am loving all the creative solutions you are coming up with... Very cool to see folks make what they have work better... I couldn't agree more on stock shocks... Those lenses look spot on... Love little Toyota's...:mrgreen:

 

[HumboldtEF]

Ok, I don't know why I never noticed this, but what rear bumper bracket/mount are you using? I've been running bumper-less in the rear for the longest time, because the rear bumper needs to be higher up than the chassis is. Granted I've got the SR5 body on a CFX-W, but it should be the same problem with the SCX10.2.

I made that, its part of the bumper, its quite long and kicks up to meet up with the body.

I am loving all the creative solutions you are coming up with... Very cool to see folks make what they have work better... I couldn't agree more on stock shocks... Those lenses look spot on... Love little Toyota's...

Thank you sir!

 

[Shinchu]

How the heck did i miss this?!?! you know my soft spot for 80's Toyotas. this one is no exception. great work!!! i don't know how i didn't see it at proline??? maybe i did, there were so many rigs at camp ascender lol
i really considered this exact combo for my "next rig". i still cant nail down a final choice.
i hear ya on the light lens demolition haha and i still cant believe you stuck your arm down that crevice to find my ford blinker. all i could think was rattlesnake nest...

see you out on the rocks again soon!

 

[HumboldtEF]

How the heck did i miss this?!?! you know my soft spot for 80's Toyotas. this one is no exception. great work!!! i don't know how i didn't see it at proline??? maybe i did, there were so many rigs at camp ascender lol
i really considered this exact combo for my "next rig". i still cant nail down a final choice.
i hear ya on the light lens demolition haha and i still cant believe you stuck your arm down that crevice to find my ford blinker. all i could think was rattlesnake nest...

see you out on the rocks again soon!

I think I only ran that rig twice and once was at night at PLBTF, that was the night run when your servo stripped out I believe, we started with maybe 6-8 people and ended up with just 2 (or maybe we just ditched everyone else )

On the subject of lens demolition, I think it had everything to do with the glue I used which was CA, its brittle and I think most of the lenses took a hit and just fell off. I used E6000 for the replacements and I haven't lost one yet.

When I was looking around for your lens that fell off I dont think I had stuck my arm in that hole but I was about to, you smartly advised me to not worry about it "thumbsup"

 

[Shinchu]

oh yeah that's right.

SO MUCH FUN! it makes you forget how expensive the damage is haha
and i'll take a good note on the E6000 for lights. not that i intend to go bashing the 3D ford into stuff but i have a bit of a track record...
man i really need to build myself a dedicated capable rig... something like what you have here for example.

 

[SubieSquirrelRC]

Loving the way this is coming along, giving me ideas for the place sr5 I wanna build [emoji106]

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