Holmes Hobbies BRXL ESC. Trash It or Repair?

[JokersWild]

Looking into this. Looking to upgrade radio system (dx6i or ttx650 in particular,) question remains is why. I hear Savox servos and Spektrum recievers do not mesh well (which I can attest too, although problem persists with current Spektrum servo,) and I also read that Spektrum recievers operate at lower voltages (not sure in what context I am supposed to understand this in, I have never heard of a reciever being able to regulate output voltage alone.

Maybe dual glitch-busters? I've already maxed out BEC. Going to have to borrow battery meter again, something isn't adding up.

Maxed out bec for what? Voltage?

Let's go through your set up again ......... If you are maxing out through rx........ Just eliminate that route....... External bec if you don't have one and bypass the rx.

As for dual glitch busters...... Its just a capasitor....... You can make your own and size it how you want but is only short term power maybe couple seconds if that. Caps are only good on go fast rigs for rx glitch at throttle punch.

 

[ModTrialsRider]

Maxed out bec for what? Voltage?

Let's go through your set up again ......... If you are maxing out through rx....... Just eliminate that route....... External bec if you don't have one and bypass the rx.

As for dual glitch busters...... Its just a capasitor....... You can make your own and size it how you want but is only short term power maybe couple seconds if that. Caps are only good on go fast rigs for rx glitch at throttle punch.

Current setup can be read on post #35. When you say bypass the rx I am to understand we are talking about hardwiring a BEC to servo alone?

I understand fully on the premise of using the short term power ability of glitch busters, I don't even see a reason why I need one (although it did help.) That's why I'm saying something is amiss. I will try and borrow a battery meter, check for resistance, bottle neck, or anything else.

Btw thanks for the help thus far everyone. It's keeping my spirits up and the cat out of the fridge.

 

[JokersWild]

Yep, dug through and found your specs.....

*Spektrum DX2E - Spektrum SR300 *Holmes Hobby BR-XL ESC *Spektrum S6030 Servo *Tamiya GT Tuned 25T Brushed *CC BEC *Novak Glitch Buster *7.2v NiMH 6-cell


As for the rest you still didn't explain your " bec voltage is maxed" . Your Sr300 rx voltage range is 3.5-9.6 volt..... Just fyi. How are you wiring your bec? Power leads to esc power in leads? Then what? Droping into the rx? If so what is your voltage set at? 6 volts? If so did you remove the red wire from esc? If all of this is correct...... During any glitch does the esc led flicker or the rx? Tell all conditions to as when it glitches i.e. : under slight load and turning? Or..........?

Personally I would run the bec to the servo using a bypass adapter. Your glitch buster half fix leads me to rx Brown out. Also I would invest at some time atleast a 2s Lipo or 3s to run. Nimh just not enough punch for all these esc, motors and servos now a days.

Can't help ya with the load of the motor seeings you are using a silver can with trans and axles I've never used..... So I have no clue on your gearing if that's a load issue.

Also Vancouver.......... Wa? Bc?

I'm just south of olympia if its wa....... And youre up this way.



This leads me to belive the red wire is still connected on the esc...... Hard to tell tho.

 

[hotwheels000]

I am sure I am seeing it wrong but it looks like the esc (throttle plug) has the red lead in the signal slot. I dont think it would even operate that way at all. Friggin washed out colors from cameras.

Have you tried untangling the antenna lead and letting it stretch out without crossing a power lead ?

 

[Solitaire]

A few things that should get you going

1. Wire the external BEC to the servo with a y harness (already suggested)
2. Use the red wire from the BRXL to power the Rx
3. Buy a 3S LiPo and toss the NiMh (already suggested)

Savox and Spektrum not working well together is a fallacy. I had a 1256 Savox in my Wraith with a Spektrum system for 4 years without any issues (other than the servo was not strong enough for my 8.5lb Wraith) as well as a similar system in a SCX10 with no problems, but the key was to have the CCBec power the servo only.

 

[ModTrialsRider]

Yep, dug through and found your specs.....

*Spektrum DX2E - Spektrum SR300 *Holmes Hobby BR-XL ESC *Spektrum S6030 Servo *Tamiya GT Tuned 25T Brushed *CC BEC *Novak Glitch Buster *7.2v NiMH 6-cell


As for the rest you still didn't explain your " bec voltage is maxed" . Your Sr300 rx voltage range is 3.5-9.6 volt..... Just fyi. How are you wiring your bec? Power leads to esc power in leads? Then what? Droping into the rx? If so what is your voltage set at? 6 volts? If so did you remove the red wire from esc? If all of this is correct...... During any glitch does the esc led flicker or the rx? Tell all conditions to as when it glitches i.e. : under slight load and turning? Or..........?

Personally I would run the bec to the servo using a bypass adapter. Your glitch buster half fix leads me to rx Brown out. Also I would invest at some time atleast a 2s Lipo or 3s to run. Nimh just not enough punch for all these esc, motors and servos now a days.

Can't help ya with the load of the motor seeings you are using a silver can with trans and axles I've never used..... So I have no clue on your gearing if that's a load issue.

Also Vancouver.......... Wa? Bc?

I'm just south of olympia if its wa....... And youre up this way.

Good post, I will answer your questions (and add notes) as best I can in the order asked.

How are you wiring your bec? Power leads to esc power in leads? Then what? Droping into the rx?

BEC has it's own harness. In other words, power from my battery powers the BEC first and ESC second, the BEC completely bypassing the ESC altogether and going straight to RX.

If so what is your voltage set at? 6 volts?

Yes, BEC output is 6v. FWIW, I did in fact look up how many allowable volts the RX will take. I have deliberately set the output voltage on the BEC (via Castle Link,) to 6.0v. Currently the max voltage input for the devices I'm using are as follows:
BEC>25v
ESC>22.2v
RX>9.6v
Motor>7.2v
Servo>6v
The servo being the smallest in input capacity was my reasoning for doing this.

If so did you remove the red wire from esc?

Yes, I did this before I started the thread. I didn't want to overload the RX throwing dual-BEC's inputs into it.

If all of this is correct...... During any glitch does the esc led flicker or the rx? Tell all conditions to as when it glitches i.e. : under slight load and turning? Or..........?

ESC led light does flicker, but it does this under normal driving circumstances so for me this isn't a reliable reading. IF it does help, I have noticed during glitching (or brown-outs as someone called it...?) the led on the BEC shuts off, then RX led shuts off, and they do this in tandem in brief nanoseconds. One lights while the other shuts off. Currently at my level I am at a loss to understand why. Too much power? Not enough?

Personally I would run the bec to the servo using a bypass adapter. Your glitch buster half fix leads me to rx Brown out. Also I would invest at some time atleast a 2s Lipo or 3s to run. Nimh just not enough punch for all these esc, motors and servos now a days.

Per your suggestions, I purchased a Y-harness (Two female, one male ended harness,) and installed it accordingly (BEC>Servo>RX,) unfortunately this didn't do anything to help. I may have misunderstood? I purchased a 3s lipo today, haven't tried it yet. It's in a corner breathing menacingly at me. This is a big deal, swore I'd never go Lipo. Now I feel I don't have a choice. ;-)

Can't help ya with the load of the motor seeings you are using a silver can with trans and axles I've never used..... So I have no clue on your gearing if that's a load issue.

Stock LNC transmission, but I changed to an 11t pinion. Motor is a basic 540 can, brushed, 25t. Nothing special.

Oh yes, Vancouver Wa. "thumbsup"

 

[ModTrialsRider]

I am sure I am seeing it wrong but it looks like the esc (throttle plug) has the red lead in the signal slot. I dont think it would even operate that way at all. Friggin washed out colors from cameras.

Have you tried untangling the antenna lead and letting it stretch out without crossing a power lead ?

Camera is washed out, all wiring was, and is currently hooked up correctly. Removed antenna per your request... oddly... it helped by a brief fraction. Nothing that was a reasonable improvement, but it did make me curious.

A few things that should get you going

1. Wire the external BEC to the servo with a y harness (already suggested)
2. Use the red wire from the BRXL to power the Rx
3. Buy a 3S LiPo and toss the NiMh (already suggested)

Savox and Spektrum not working well together is a fallacy. I had a 1256 Savox in my Wraith with a Spektrum system for 4 years without any issues (other than the servo was not strong enough for my 8.5lb Wraith) as well as a similar system in a SCX10 with no problems, but the key was to have the CCBec power the servo only.

I have ran into several people recently that have massive luck with Spektrum/Savox gear. But then again I hear many others that have problems as well. Being that I have completely omitted my Savox from the mix and installed a Spektrum servo clearly tells me it wasn't much to do with brand. The Spektrum did help, however.

I think this would be a good time to call upon a moderator to change the thread title from "Holmes Hobbies" to "Some moron having random electrical issues not related to any brand." :roll:

 

[ModTrialsRider]

I have attempted to gather some photos of the voltage ratings I am getting. If you wish to see something I haven't posted please feel free to let me know. It's just a basic overview of what I am seeing. The only thing that concerns me is the motor draw + expected BEC output is more than my NiMH can dish out, at least that's what it appears (yes, I realize this is what everyone has been saying since the first page. ) Unfortunately I cannot get a reliable reading on the intervals in which I will have glitching. Too brief. Any input would be appreciated. "thumbsup"









Also it should be noted that these pictures were taken on the same battery I drove the truck earlier with, and as such I am going to assume battery is somewhere around 10%-50% capacity during these photos. I have not been able to get enough runtime with this particular rig to estimate properly my general runtime.

Todays run lasted roughly 1.5 hours of very slow, quiet driving. Despite full charge (roughly 8.9v as of this morning,) truck would still glitch out on mashed throttle inputs (i.e. during attempts to create momentum to get up/over obstacles.) Otherwise it ran as it should. Truck was run with setup I listed earlier on post #35.

 

[ModTrialsRider]

Bumping this one last time.

After all this messing about, what put it over the top was 11.1v of 3s lipo. As much as it pains me to say it I am now using Lipo and never looking back. Problems are gone, all of them. For now. Except my pride. I was a diehard NiMH fanboy, even after I had one fail on me. (ID10T error... Left it plugged into charger and unplugged charger after leaving work and left battery hooked in creating a live circuit. Had to pull over at a mall and dissect 2 of 6 smoldering cells in a parking lot while explaining to the portly security officer I was in fact not a terrorist.) ;-)

It occurred to me after seeing visual proof on the volt reader how much power the motor was sucking up (not including the spike under load or startup,) and it occurred to me that neither NiMH or even 2s would be able to power everything nominally, (It was the equivalent of expecting a lawn hose to put out a house fire and fill a pool all at the same time.) Upped the ante and the truck has stupid power. Truck runs insane. No glitching. 3s takes 7lbs truck and turns it into a leaping psychopath. Seriously... the voltage I have at my disposal could realistically break something.

Motor sparks something fierce and BR-XL is getting warm, I will have to tone down some settings via Castle Link and reset my truck all over again, but at least I know it works as it should. Truck scoots it's ass pretty hard now for being a wormy axle. Going to have to keep the lead foot in check.

So lesson learned, a massive humble thank you to all.

In conclusion:

(1) Holmes Hobby products work just fine. User error.
(2) This expensive hobby is expensive, hence it being a hobby. And expensive. Let this thread, it's posterity, and it's tribulations of the OP be a boon to those with less means at their disposal.
(3) Never underestimate the power of Lipo technology even if you are stuck in the late 1990's with your biased powering opinions.
(4) Troubleshoot until your eyes bleed, and then ask for help. It pays to have answers when others ask questions.
(4) Lipo's. Again. Nuff' said.

"thumbsup"

 

[knightsy]

Glad you solved your problems. That terrain is to die for.

 

[ModTrialsRider]

Glad you solved your problems. That terrain is to die for.

Not all of my problems are solved. I'm still spending my hard earned money on an adult version of a toy. I have lots of problems and am beyond help. Terrain is Lucia Falls, southwest Washington. A massively popular stomping ground (and comp locale,) for crawlers here, I always seem to bump into some. Terrain here is beautiful but with no shortage of rain during the year makes any non-waterproofed drive a gamble.

 

[jeff22]

None of this applies to me but I found this enjoyable to read. I am also a Nimh hold out and I wouldn't have wanted to upgrade the battery either.


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