Hobby Bench Top Cut-Off Miter Saw

[Bananaclip]

I like that Jato. I have the full-size Dewalt. It’s a beast. To much for 3/16 though. Lol. I’m on the hunt for a solid little band saw personally.


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[2mtech]

Honestly, a $100 benchtop band saw is a bit bigger, but *SO* much more versatile. I've been using mine for 5ish years, and is absolutely one of my most used tools.

Which one do you have? I'm kind of thinking band saw too...

 

[MiteyF]

JATO, I can't tell from the picture, but, a VERY important note: if you didn't already know (not trying to patronize) there are 2 types of abrasive cutoff/grinding wheels. One is for ferrous metals like steel, and the other is for aluminum specifically. If you use a disc designed for steel with aluminum it can clog up, heat up, and EXPLODE! Please make sure you're using the correct type of blade. Most "metal" cutting discs are designed for steel, and typically a disc designed for aluminum will specifically say "aluminum cutting wheel" or similar.



I have actually had surprisingly good luck using HF cutoff wheels in my 4.5" grinder, but have never used them for aluminum.


Just trying to save you from getting shards of cutoff wheel in your face.

Which one do you have? I'm kind of thinking band saw too...

I've got the Ryobi 9" from Lowes, but honestly I think most of the similar 9" saws are made in the same factory and just re-branded. The key is SETUP. I spent a few hours checking and adjusting everything... guides, bearings, blade tracking and tension, blade/table square, miter gauge, etc etc. I've used the hell out of it over the last 5 years and it's done me very well. Google "bandsaw tuneup" or something similar, there are a lot of very good guides out there. Most are aimed at the larger floor models, but many of the basics are the same.



People will tell you that you can't get a cheap saw to cut accurately, don't let them fool you. The trick is making sure your saw is in tip-top condition. I can even resaw down to... well, real thin ;-)

 

[JatoTheRipper]

JATO, I can't tell from the picture, but, a VERY important note: if you didn't already know (not trying to patronize) there are 2 types of abrasive cutoff/grinding wheels. One is for ferrous metals like steel, and the other is for aluminum specifically. If you use a disc designed for steel with aluminum it can clog up, heat up, and EXPLODE! Please make sure you're using the correct type of blade. Most "metal" cutting discs are designed for steel, and typically a disc designed for aluminum will specifically say "aluminum cutting wheel" or similar.


I have actually had surprisingly good luck using HF cutoff wheels in my 4.5" grinder, but have never used them for aluminum.

Just trying to save you from getting shards of cutoff wheel in your face.

No offense taken. It's always a good reminder to be safe and make sure you know what you're doing! "thumbsup"

The blades are for metal according to Harbor Freight. The page states "Slice through steel, stainless and other ferrous alloys with these metal cut-off wheels." Here's the link to said blades: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-46-grit-metal-cut-off-wheel-3-pc-61198.html

 

[Jim85IROC]

I typically use a dremel or a saws-all and clean up the ends on my sander. I suppose if I was cutting a ton of this sort of stuff one of these tools could be useful, but for the occasional cut, my method works great.

 

[whitrzac]

I've had decent luck just using a hand tube cutter for making links.

 

[2mtech]

I've got the Ryobi 9" from Lowes, but honestly I think most of the similar 9" saws are made in the same factory and just re-branded. The key is SETUP. I spent a few hours checking and adjusting everything... guides, bearings, blade tracking and tension, blade/table square, miter gauge, etc etc. I've used the hell out of it over the last 5 years and it's done me very well. Google "bandsaw tuneup" or something similar, there are a lot of very good guides out there. Most are aimed at the larger floor models, but many of the basics are the same.



People will tell you that you can't get a cheap saw to cut accurately, don't let them fool you. The trick is making sure your saw is in tip-top condition. I can even resaw down to... well, real thin ;-)

Yeah, that's pretty thin!

I have to admit tuning a new power tool is not something I would instinctively think to need to do, but it makes sense. You only have to denude one spur gear to figure out you have to check check pinion mesh before running an RTR RC.

Thanks!

 

[AggressorBLUE]

...

I've got the Ryobi 9" from Lowes, ...



People will tell you that you can't get a cheap saw to cut accurately, don't let them fool you. The trick is making sure your saw is in tip-top condition. I can even resaw down to... well, real thin ;-)

Sure about that? Ryobi is a Home Depot exclusive brand ;-)

Although they do also sell refurb stuff direct from the supplier (https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/), or others like CPO Outlets. Ryobi and Rigid are HD exclusives (basically HD treats them like their in-house power tool brand), where as Lowes counters with their in-house Kobalt tools.

upon reflection, I know way to much about this stuff for a guy who's day job is being a marketing data analyst, lol


Also, agree 100% about the accuracy of Cheap saws. The key though, is to get one that's highly tuneable. REALLY cheap tools often have limited adjustments, and then you're SOL.


That's ridiculous regarding the re-sawing though! I've been eyeing up the ~$100 band saws and drill press out there, might need to treat myself to a late fathers day present...

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Although they do also sell refurb stuff direct from the supplier (https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/), or others like CPO Outlets. Ryobi and Rigid are HD exclusives (basically HD treats them like their in-house power tool brand), where as Lowes counters with their in-house Kobalt tools.

Had I known about that I might have jumped on that sweet little saw on there. I'm not a fan of used, certified or not though. But if it comes with a warranty it makes it tolerable.

Funny how the 14" Ridgid saw looks so similar to the Harbor Freight saw...

 

[MiteyF]

Sure about that? Ryobi is a Home Depot exclusive brand ;-)

Although they do also sell refurb stuff direct from the supplier (https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/), or others like CPO Outlets. Ryobi and Rigid are HD exclusives (basically HD treats them like their in-house power tool brand), where as Lowes counters with their in-house Kobalt tools.

upon reflection, I know way to much about this stuff for a guy who's day job is being a marketing data analyst, lol


Also, agree 100% about the accuracy of Cheap saws. The key though, is to get one that's highly tuneable. REALLY cheap tools often have limited adjustments, and then you're SOL.


That's ridiculous regarding the re-sawing though! I've been eyeing up the ~$100 band saws and drill press out there, might need to treat myself to a late fathers day present...

Oops! Yeah, probably Home Depot. Either way, it's the same shit with different stickers!

 

[Voodoobrew]

I never liked chop saws much. Prefer my dewalt cordless grinder or a corded dremel for small stuff. For tube chassis you don't need a straight cut any ways. Use a drill bit and punch to cope the end.

 

[BigSki]

Micro-Mark always has decent quality "mini" shop tools, they cater to model makers so there's always a cool selection of tools/gadgets for RC fabrication.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Micro-Mark always has decent quality "mini" shop tools, they cater to model makers so there's always a cool selection of tools/gadgets for RC fabrication.

Last I checked they have less than decent prices.

Oh and their mini miter/cut-off saw is $70 and it looks eerily similar to Harbor Freight's chop saw that is literally half the price at $35. And you can surely get it cheaper at Harbor Freight with one of their coupons.

https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Mini-Miter-Cut-Off-Saw

VS

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

 

[spookyseven]

I like that Jato. I have the full-size Dewalt. It’s a beast. To much for 3/16 though. Lol. I’m on the hunt for a solid little band saw personally.

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Something like this? It looks like the same design is sold under a few different brands so you might be able to find it at a less expensive price. I found a few by searching for bench top bandsaw. Obviously it's more expensive than the harbor freight one but it's probably more versatile if you need it for non rc projects. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-b...MIpbjAvbCc3AIVWrXACh2MUQCdEAQYAiABEgKLp_D_BwE

 

[MiteyF]

Something like this? It looks like the same design is sold under a few different brands so you might be able to find it at a less expensive price. I found a few by searching for bench top bandsaw. Obviously it's more expensive than the harbor freight one but it's probably more versatile if you need it for non rc projects. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-b...MIpbjAvbCc3AIVWrXACh2MUQCdEAQYAiABEgKLp_D_BwE

I think for most people here, a regular tabletop band saw would make MUCH more sense than a horizontal band saw. Horizontal saws are ONLY good for making straight cuts through long sections of channel/angle/rod etc. Unless you're cutting suspension links for 1/5 scale crawlers, a horizontal band saw has almost no use for us.

 

[spookyseven]

I think for most people here, a regular tabletop band saw would make MUCH more sense than a horizontal band saw. Horizontal saws are ONLY good for making straight cuts through long sections of channel/angle/rod etc. Unless you're cutting suspension links for 1/5 scale crawlers, a horizontal band saw has almost no use for us.

So the mini chop saw is useful for rc but the small bandsaw isn't? Seems like it would work just fine to cut small stock to length.

 

[willyg1981]

What wrong with using a clamp , a combination square and an angle grinder ?


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[MiteyF]

So the mini chop saw is useful for rc but the small bandsaw isn't? Seems like it would work just fine to cut small stock to length.

No actually, I don't think either is particularly useful. A regular vertical band saw with a miter gauge will do small stock up to 9 or 10" long just as well as a small chop saw or horizontal band saw, and also do "regular" band saw work too. How often as RC car builders do we need small stock with precision cuts more than 9" long?

 

[spookyseven]

No actually, I don't think either is particularly useful. A regular vertical band saw with a miter gauge will do small stock up to 9 or 10" long just as well as a small chop saw or horizontal band saw, and also do "regular" band saw work too. How often as RC car builders do we need small stock with precision cuts more than 9" long?

I'll avoid stirring the pot and cluttering up this thread. Bananaclip stated he was looking for a small bandsaw so I pointed one out. Just because you wouldn't use it doesn't mean other people won't like it.

 

[MiteyF]

I'll avoid stirring the pot and cluttering up this thread. Bananaclip stated he was looking for a small bandsaw so I pointed one out. Just because you wouldn't use it doesn't mean other people won't like it.

I'm just saying, the discussion was more aimed at vertical band saws if I'm not mistaken. Everyone appreciates another option/recommendation, and thanks for posting that little saw. I don't see the purpose really (in fact I never knew they made tiny horizontal band saws, besides the "portable band saws") but it's nice to have options.