Haastnooit’s RBX10 Ryft

[Haastnooit]

Well in reality it is my daughters rig. She got me back in to RC after being awol for a long period. We started building some Tamiya onroad cars in the last months of 2021, and stepped up the game when x-mass came. My daughter got a Ryft which we are upgrading to the point we like or need to be for durability.

So far the following upgrades are installed:

- Dhawk Racing CNC Aluminum Rear Trailing Arms
- Axial sway bar set
- RYFT / AR14B BEEF TUBES - BRASS

Due to some issues with delayed delivery of the needed batterypacks we did not have a chance to run it yet. We hope to be able to run it next weekend. We will be using 3S lipos for this monster.

Next upgrade will probably involve the steering setup, in most common cases the stock servo on RTR rigs tends to be somewhat inferior. Also the plastic servo saver might need upgrading. For sure with the brute nature of bouncing the servo and servosaver will get punished each ride. We will post our experiences and future upgrades in this thread for our own fun and to get some answers on questions we will most certainly have.

Thanks for looking "thumbsup"

 

[SCX10 JK]

Congrats on the Ryft. I'll give you a few of my personal recomendations for some additional parts you may want to go ahead and get ordered. First thing is get 3 lockers the diffs in these are absolute junk. I bought a RTR Ryft and center diff was toasted in basically 10ft inside. They are ok if you want to tear all three apart and shim them properly they might hold up...... I just went with 3 SSD lockers as they were pretty cheap. I believe that there are at least 2 or 3 companies that have new diff cases and or gears for the Ryft if you need the diff. Others will tell you get lockers.....



Secondly this thing is stupid fast even on 3s get the 2-speed transmission gear set. You will be in there replacing the diff anyways sooner rather than later so perfect time to install. Would recommend ecopower 827 servo comes with adapter for the axial servo arm cheap has held up to about 5 hrs of bashing so far no issues.



I have taken the excel chart that went around for the scx10.3 gearing and adapted it to the Ryft. Stock RTR comes only with high gear and with 4s is approximately 39.8 mph, 3s 29.9 mph, 2s is 19.9 mph. 1st gear optional speeds are 4s 23.6mph, 3s 17.7 mph, and 2s is 11.7 mph.


Havn't tried to gps the speed but based off of other rigs that I know the speed of this is pretty close.


Also the Hobbywing 1080 programming card works to program the stock RTR Ryft esc. Settings are in the Ryft manual and are different than whats on the back of the program box but easy enough to use to tune.


Good job on the beeftubes I went with the SSD aluminum ones to help beef up the weak axles.



Sorry for the long post hope this give you some useful information.

Well in reality it is my daughters rig. She got me back in to RC after being awol for a long period. We started building some Tamiya onroad cars in the last months of 2021, and stepped up the game when x-mass came. My daughter got a Ryft which we are upgrading to the point we like or need to be for durability.

So far the following upgrades are installed:

- Dhawk Racing CNC Aluminum Rear Trailing Arms
- Axial sway bar set
- RYFT / AR14B BEEF TUBES - BRASS

Due to some issues with delayed delivery of the needed batterypacks we did not have a chance to run it yet. We hope to be able to run it next weekend. We will be using 3S lipos for this monster.

Next upgrade will probably involve the steering setup, in most common cases the stock servo on RTR rigs tends to be somewhat inferior. Also the plastic servo saver might need upgrading. For sure with the brute nature of bouncing the servo and servosaver will get punished each ride. We will post our experiences and future upgrades in this thread for our own fun and to get some answers on questions we will most certainly have.

Thanks for looking "thumbsup"

 

[Haastnooit]

Thanks for the heads up. We will see what happens when we go out, I read different stories about the diffs. Some have problems, some not. Some diffs have play, some not. When we will run in to diff problems we will follow the path of least resistance towards durability and lock the diffs with some spools.

The 2-speed upgrade involves minor cost so we most certainly will do that when we need to address the center diff.

 

[T I N Y]

All three diffs are locked. The best thing that was ever done to it. "thumbsup"

 

[Haastnooit]

Well batterypacks arrived today, so this weekend we will be finally able to run the car …. 8). Fiddled a bit around tonight indoors, just to see what it is like out of the box. A lot of noise and hardly any dragbrake, so made some adjustments in the stock ESC settings. There are a lot of programmable items involving braking, here is what I did with them:

(2) dragbrake force: adjusted from 20 to 100%
(5) max brake force: no change made (standard set at 75%)
(7) initial brake force: adjusted from 20 to 40%

When releasing the throttle there is still no immediate braking, do I have to set program (7) tot position 1 (=dragbrake) to achieve this ? And or do I have to set the max brake force (5) to 100% ?

Furthermore are there any other standard settings you guys adjusted ?

 

[SCX10 JK]

Ah the brake issues lol. This is not setup from the factory with drag brakes so to speak and currently not sure that any of those settings will help much. I could be wrong lol. My experience is that the esc is setup as pull trigger for forward then to brake push trigger like for reverse once stopped go back neutral then back again for reverse. This causes braking and thus with the settings you changed will probably brake instantly causing forward flips at any decent speed often causing breakage to the axle housings. The drag brake setting do seem to have some effect when going at higher speed and letting off throttle to the neutral position only. Again your change in the settings to that high might also cause front flips as well.

This was never intended to operate as a crawler setup so I feel that the drag brake stuff is very limited if you will. This is also the reason that I went 2 speed and am also going to be building a kit ryft that is brushed in order to crawl and trail with and leave my rtr as more of a basher.

Make small changes to your setting and try out each one independently before making another change. This should help you determine if any of these will work for you the way that you want.

Mine won't do flips when I let off from full throttle runs but it also doesn't slow down all that fast either but does slow down some.

I'll check my settings and post what I have and see if that helps you at all.

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[SCX10 JK]

Ok I did some quick checking for you. Yes you need to change setting 7 to 1 if you want drag brake to function as well otherwise 2 is 0% starting brake force 3 is 20% brake force applied instantly then up from there or 4 is 40% applied instantly then up from that.

So I help this helps some

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[Haastnooit]

Thanks …. We ran yesterday with the adjusted brake settings as I posted above. No succes, front flips when releasing the throttle as you predicted SCX10 JK. I changed back the settings and we will run it with stock settings and start adjusting from there ….

Had a bunch of fun with the Ryft, absolutely epic car. Ordered a second one (orange version) so my daughter and I can both run it, now we are fighting who gets to ride fast with the Ryft and who has to go slow with the Bomber :mrgreen:

 

[SCX10 JK]

Glad your starting to get somewhere on it. Congrats on the second one. My bomber can sorta hang with my rfyt but that's with 2 speed trans and a 12t 550 on 3s and a few other upgrades..............will say the ryft is better planted than the bomber. Both are fun in their own way.

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[Haastnooit]

The Ryft was behaving much better under breaking with the settings set back to stock.

Unfortunately we had a bad landing on a minor jump and broke the rear axle and bend the axle shaft. I only installed tubes in the front axle housing, that was a mistake …

Contacted Horizon to see if I can get replacement parts for the damage suffered. Meanwhile I ordered the SSD tubes for the rear axle, a new housing and axle shaft.

 

[SCX10 JK]

Glad to hear that the braking was better. Ouch that hurt. Glad I did the SSD tubes in the rear as well now I'm worried that I need them for my kit crawler.

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[Haastnooit]

Yeah that hurt. Brought a tear to the eye of my daughter, she was driving and felt really bad about it. It took me some time to convince her that breaking stuff is part of the hobby. Specially when the materials and design used seems not to be up to par.

For crawling you should put tubes in. Not necessarily for durability but for bringing the COG down. Brass versions will give you nice weight down low in your rig, a must have crawler benefit imo.

 

[SCX10 JK]

Yeah definitely considering the beef tube brass tubes front and rear also considering just getting metal axles. Possibly some brass diff covers and other brass parts for axles. I know I personally do not want any rotating wheel weight if at all possible.

The ryft is definitely a beast and when power is applied it puts a tremendous strain on many parts. When I consider that the Ryft weighs probably half of what the old Yeti xl does and the fact that they are similar in speed makes me cringe. The yeti xl is a true beast with some upgrades but it's seriously beefy in its build, way more so than the Ryft. Time will tell how well the Ryft will hold up but I have a feeling most that are driven regularly will be heavily modded or slowed down.

I do love driving my Ryft, but nothing compares to breaking out the 2 speed yeti xl on 6s that's just plain stupid fun. Especially in the snow.

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[Haastnooit]

Today I received the replacement axle housing and axle shafts from Horizon hobby "thumbsup". I put in a warranty claim by my hobby shop and they did the communication with Horizon hobby Europe. No problem what so ever, the green light came the same day I filed the warranty claim. Perfect !

So buttoned up the rear axle tonight and it is whole again. Now we are waiting for the SSD rear axle tubes to arrive. Hopefully they will be here soon, together with the front tubes and trailing arms I ordered for my orange Ryft which also came in today.

 

[Haastnooit]

Did some wrenching on the new Ryft today, I installed the rear swaybar kit. Still waiting for the rest of the upgrades, I hope they will come in this week.

Noticed a difference between the first black Ryft and the new orange one. The rodends on the front lowerlinks on the chassis side apparently have changed out of the box. The older black version has the angled rodends whilst the newer orange version came with straight rodends.

Slight difference in wheelbase seems to be visible when the cars lay on the roof side by side. However when standing on wheels the difference is practically non existent.

 

[Haastnooit]

Little step forward today. The Dhawk Racing trailing arms got in for the new orange Ryft today and I installed them just now. Nice quality part "thumbsup". The newer version of trailing arms come with more optional holes for the shock position. The nr. 1 and 5 hole are equal to the two positions available on the stock plastic arms.

Below some pics of the newer version of the Dhawk Racing trailing arms on the orange Ryft and the older version on the black Ryft.

Also a slight difference in finish. New version is a bit more shiny, the older version has a more dull finish.

 

[Haastnooit]

Man …. Waiting for parts sucks. Wish I could get all the exotic upgrade parts in my own country. But unfortunately this is not the case, have to order abroad and wait patiently until parts come in. Today the SSD rear axle tubes got in and I installed them tonight in both Ryfts.

Now the black Ryft is fully ready for action again after the axle breakage. The orange one still needs axle tubes in the front. Brass beef tubes are in the mail … somewhere.

I got some additional spare parts and future upgrades on order to keep the Ryfts running.

Axial M4 straight rodends
Axial M4 angled rodends
Axial WB11 driveshafts set (1 piece)
Losi LMT servo saver (1 piece)
Yeah racing HD spool (6 pieces)

 

[Haastnooit]

The additional spare parts came in today, so I installed the Losi LMT servo saver on the orange Ryft. The unused stock Axial one will be the spare for both rigs for now. We probably will upgrade the servo to one with a more common 25T spline when we run in to servo problems.

Anyone else using the LMT servo saver ?

I turned the nut as tight as I can by hand. I am curious about the experiences you guys have with it, please share.

I found the steering setup has some play right out the box and expected this was due to the Axial servo saver it self and would be solved by the Losi one. The play still seems to be there, can it be the internal gears of the Spektrum servo ?

 

[Haastnooit]

The front beef tubes arrived last week and after installation we were finally ready to rip the two Ryfts side by side. Yesterday the sun came out, temperature raised and we went for it … total MADNESS driving these things. Lots of fun …

We drove on uneven ground and rolled over plenty due to the amount of power and high COG of the Ryft. After 2 packs each we had little carnage, one angled rodend on the front lower links on the black Ryft broke and ended the bash session.

When cleaning the cars we noticed the stock servo saver not working properly anymore. I ordered another LMT servo saver to replace it.

No axle breaking, the tubes look to be doing what they supposed to do. I cartwheeled the orange Ryft several times and I must say the whole rear housing looks somewhat curved. But there are no cracks or any other sign of damage visible. Everything inside the axle moves freely so will let it be for now.

Anyone else has warped housings with tubes installed ? I will update with a picture later, perhaps my mind is tricking me.

 

[Haastnooit]

We went out with the Ryfts again this weekend, we hit up Some hills. Real fun but again it did not last as long as we would like. Another case of carnage ended the hill climbing …

First one of the yokes on the rear driveshaft on the orange Ryft fell apart and all parts were lost. I carried on with only front wheel drive until a few minutes later a yoke on the front center driveshaft also fell apart. Unbelievable …. Luckily we found the two pins and cube of the second failed yoke back in the dirt.

Below a picture of the curved rear axle as I mentioned in the previous post.

This picture was taken before we went out, you can see the complete axle housing has a curve to it. No cracks visible anywhere. After the run I disassembled the rear axle to see what is going on and discovered the SSD rear axle tube is bent. Below a top view and side view of the axle tube. Strength of the part is very disappointing, it was bent on the first run. The rear axle shaft has a slight bend as well.

Also the rear diff was sticking gears now and then. I went ahead and took the rear diff out as the axle was completely apart already. One of the side gears is missing a teeth and the spider gears are worn down due to the loose material in the diff.

All in all I am now forced to upgrade again for durability. I ordered the following parts to upgrade the orange Ryft:
- Yeah Racing diff spool front, center and rear (already got these in house)
- Yeah Racing steel center drive shaft set (same price as Axial yokes)
- Treal aluminium rear axle housing+linkmounts
- Axial rear axle shaft

The black Ryft seems to hold up better, only some clicking in the front diff now and then. When the orange Ryft is done I will also install the diff spools in the black Ryft.