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Greatscott's Capra Kit

The rig is very smooth in the forward direction, but it as a bit of a twitch if I am not careful going in reverse. Between the ESC and radio, I am fairly sure I can program that out.

Fwiw...If you can't program it out, you may take a look and see if you need to add a shim between the driveshaft(s) and the pinion bearing. Seems to be fairly common on these axles.
 
Cool, I did not realize the Capra also had the third front wheel drive option. Rig requires a shorty pack?

The SSD portal covers have a nice looking finish, no surprises there I suppose.

More pics coming? Those wheels must be mounted...

I don't think having three modes on the dig was something the engineers actually designed in to the whole mess, but there is enough slop between 4WD and dig to allow the FWD mode.

Having FWD where the back wheels are freewheeling is particularly useful on climbs when you don't want your back wheels pushing you over, but you don't want them acting as an anchor either.

Mounted?

They are Injora bealocks (Amazon) wrapped in PL Hydrax tires.

Fwiw...If you can't program it out, you may take a look and see if you need to add a shim between the driveshaft(s) and the pinion bearing. Seems to be fairly common on these axles.

Good to know. I am fairly sure most of my problem is with ESC/TX tuning, which comes down to setting the proper start power, dead band, and throttle curve. But, I am always looking for better ways of tuning, and will certainly keep the shims in mind.

Now I am on the hunt for batteries, I am kind of likely these, by their reviews they fit the Capra.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-...30c-lipo-battery-11.1v-3000mah-asc759/p945354
 
Nice build! I'm also working on a dig servo mount for a used Capra I got that had the dig locked out. My plan is to also have 4WD/FWD/locked rear as well.

Now if only my 3D printer would stop acting up and actually print my design...
 
Got my brand new panels from Barn Dog RC, they fit like a glove... Now I have to decide if I am going to slap some stickers on them and bolt them up. Or, if I am going send them out somewhere to get dipped.

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
I like the metal look. I’d do a protective coating if there isn’t already one on them and slap some stickers on and call it a day.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Went ahead and slapped some stickers on. I have some feelers out for hydrodipping, and might still go that route. With the weather up here in North 'ho, its not likely I'll be hitting the rocks any time soon.

The last thing is to figure out something for the interior, might look for someone local that can paint it up for me. Or, I'll just get an aluminum plate off of Amazon... dunno...

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
 
My local club is moving away from C3 rules, and moving to WE RC Rock rules. Is it possible, with the stock chassis, to meet the cockpit requirements?
 
This is the 1/1 rule set, sorry.

Wow, this is a hefty rule book.


I’ll check it out but it might take me a bit to read it all. lol

Here is the RC rules.

 
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Yeah, I understand the rules, I am looking for information on how to be with compliant with the cockpit requirements.
 
Well first off I would find out if your Capra is even allowed since they are mentioned at least once as not being allowed. After you find out if your Capra is ok then the rest is reading the rules.
 
Well first off I would find out if your Capra is even allowed since they are mentioned at least once as not being allowed. After you find out if your Capra is ok then the rest is reading the rules.

Somehow you are stuck on the notion that I have not read the rules, however, I am asking a specific question directly related to the rules, ergo, I have read the rules... With that, you either don't have the answer to my question, or you do understand the question...

First, the Capra is allowed, but a plastic chassis is dinged scale 40 points. The quest is: How do you make a Capra compliant with the cockpit rules?
 
Wholly fudge... I thought I had only bought this rig a year or two go, hadn't realized it had been so long.

With that, today is the first day I had it on the rocks, and in a comp. Overall, it did very well, and I came away with a definitive list of things to improve on.
• Rear steering servo. I am only running 25kg. It did ok, but there were a couple of times that it simply got bound up too much and would not turn.
• Tire foams. The wheels hooked up really well, but Hydrax tires have soft side walls, and with single stage foams, folded more than what I liked.
• Shocks. I am running stock kit shocks, which are ok, but I know I can get better performance out of better shocks.
• Rear cage. My suspension is limited by the back steering servo hitting the back cage. This area of the cage is really just for looks, and I could likely cut it out and reposition the RX box to open up more travel on the back axle.
• Winch. I am using a kinetic winch line (not-so glorified bungie cord), I need to install a servo winch.

The positives here...
• The Mamba-X was insanely smooth throughout the throttle band. And, the whole mess was a lot quieter than most of the rigs running in the comp. On 3S, there was no lack of power or wheel speed.
• Aside from the shock and suspension limitation, the wheels felt planted, and the whole truck just seems very predictable, as well as stable.
• In spite of the programming annoyances I have had with it, my MT12 radio was awesome, and just worked. I have the rear steer on the 3-position switch under the steering wheel, "SA". All of the way in I am in crab steer, center I am in military steer, and all of the way out I have independent control of the two axles. I was using "S1", the knob to the left of the steering wheel, for rear axle control, but this became a tricky situation when trying to use dig at the same time. After the second course (of four), I moved the rear steer to "S1", and it worked A LOT better.

What are some recommend shock set-ups for the Capra?
 
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