hnoroian
Rock Crawler
The ground hawgs, steel wheels and the swig axle setup look like a killer combo. Almost need tractor tires on the front.
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Fallen's Tamiya BBX
- Thread starter Fallen
- Start date
Thanks!
The Ground Hawgs are a similar tread pattern to what you'd see on late 70's / early 80's desert buggies, so they fit the build well.
Plus the black wagon wheels are consistent with an old desert buggy too. I definitely prefer this buggy coated with a heavy layer of dirt.
I still run the stock wheels / tires when I let my son drive this in the street. No way I'm letting those Ground Hawgs get chewed up.
The Ground Hawgs are a similar tread pattern to what you'd see on late 70's / early 80's desert buggies, so they fit the build well.
Plus the black wagon wheels are consistent with an old desert buggy too. I definitely prefer this buggy coated with a heavy layer of dirt.
I still run the stock wheels / tires when I let my son drive this in the street. No way I'm letting those Ground Hawgs get chewed up.
After about 50 batteries in offroad terrain the stock ball differential was no longer working. Time to swap in the gear differential. While I had the transmission apart, I decided to put the slipper clutch in as well.
For an indoor "offroad" track the ball differential might be a good choice. But for those of us who offroad, "offroad" means hours away from the nearest assistance, seriously unpredictable terrain and when things go wrong, you better get it sorted out before the sun goes down.
The ball differential is a horrible choice for this application. Only adjustable by disassembling the drivetrain, using special tools and it relies on 15 super tiny ball bearings to lose in the dirt / sand.
The gear differential will still work even if all the oil leaks out, and would be easily swappable in the field. The slipper clutch can be adjusted without having to disassemble anything.
I put 500k WT oil in the differential as I only intend to run this on loose terrain. The new input shaft that comes with the slipper clutch is steel, but the idler gear and differential gears are plastic. A loose slipper clutch and loose terrain will hopefully help those last longer. The spider gears inside of the differential are steel.
The spur gear that comes with the slipper clutch is the same size as the stock spur, so no gear mesh adjustment needed. And the adjustment nut is on the backside of the transmission, so no need to remove the spur gear cover to adjust tension.
I've yet to try the little buggy with this new transmission set-up but I'm definitely looking forward to it.
For an indoor "offroad" track the ball differential might be a good choice. But for those of us who offroad, "offroad" means hours away from the nearest assistance, seriously unpredictable terrain and when things go wrong, you better get it sorted out before the sun goes down.
The ball differential is a horrible choice for this application. Only adjustable by disassembling the drivetrain, using special tools and it relies on 15 super tiny ball bearings to lose in the dirt / sand.
The gear differential will still work even if all the oil leaks out, and would be easily swappable in the field. The slipper clutch can be adjusted without having to disassemble anything.
I put 500k WT oil in the differential as I only intend to run this on loose terrain. The new input shaft that comes with the slipper clutch is steel, but the idler gear and differential gears are plastic. A loose slipper clutch and loose terrain will hopefully help those last longer. The spider gears inside of the differential are steel.
The spur gear that comes with the slipper clutch is the same size as the stock spur, so no gear mesh adjustment needed. And the adjustment nut is on the backside of the transmission, so no need to remove the spur gear cover to adjust tension.
I've yet to try the little buggy with this new transmission set-up but I'm definitely looking forward to it.
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Nice pit work 
That thing looks so good it's gotta feel great to work on.
Excellent pics. I still want one
That thing looks so good it's gotta feel great to work on.
Excellent pics. I still want one
There have been very few RC cars that I have no regrets over spending money on. I can definitely count them on one hand. The BBX is one of them.
You and me both!The more pics I see, and the more I read about them, I'm sure gettin' a hankerin' fer one...
I'm really loving this, and the og Fast Attack vehicle (cheaper btw) I wonder how those two compare, essentially?
Anyone hax experience with both?
The Fast Attack has bushings instead of bearings, doesn't use 12mm hexes for the wheels, and has friction dampers instead of oil-filled shocks.
That said, it's much cheaper - by about $100. It also comes with a gear diff instead of a ball diff.
That said, it's much cheaper - by about $100. It also comes with a gear diff instead of a ball diff.
89Industries
Quarry Creeper
When did you put in the brushless motor? Going back through your thread I only see mention of the Tamiya silver can in the first post?
I only have 5 or 6 battery packs on my bbx but I put the slipper clutch in from the beginning on advice I found on the Tamiya club forum, though I put a 3300kv Holmes puller pro from the start as well.
I'm starting to think of switching that motor set up to the Tamiya td-4 and putting the 17t HH retrosport brushed set up in the bbx.
On the ball differential, I thought you could adjust it just by removing the axle shafts from the drive cups? Still a wonky contraption in my head overall and didn't seem like the most durable.
I only have 5 or 6 battery packs on my bbx but I put the slipper clutch in from the beginning on advice I found on the Tamiya club forum, though I put a 3300kv Holmes puller pro from the start as well.
I'm starting to think of switching that motor set up to the Tamiya td-4 and putting the 17t HH retrosport brushed set up in the bbx.
On the ball differential, I thought you could adjust it just by removing the axle shafts from the drive cups? Still a wonky contraption in my head overall and didn't seem like the most durable.
89Industries
Quarry Creeper
This sounds a lot like the Dt03 my son and I just built but haven't gotten painted or driven outside yet. Easy to upgrade the bushings on the dt03 as they are all the same so a bag of 20 bearings on Amazon is cheap and replaced every bushing. We upgraded friction shocks to the dt03 cva oil dampers as well (because I'm an old sus engineer, my 6 year old probably wouldn't notice a thing). Front wheels are not 12mm hexes but with a printer would be easy enough to adapt 12mm hex wheels to the bearing on spindle wheel set up.
But, overall the BBX is just nicer and IMO worth the premium over the dt03. The fast attack has additional style to consider as a factor. The only part on a bbx that seems to be an absolute must upgrade is the screw hardware for the ball diff, or just switch the ball diff to the gear diff like Fallen is doing now.
Also, BBX uses internal hex head hardware (socket head cap screws). Dt03 and likely the Fast Attack use JIS screws. Which work fine if you have actual JIS screwdrivers but I still prefer SHCS.
Ya, the small inconveniences (bushings, JIS hardware), I've been throwing them out as soon as they come in and I replacing with SHCS, since day one, back then, hardware and bearings were dirt cheap on ebay too, no tax, hold on where am I going with this?
BBX, ya, the suspension, up front looks a mile better than what the FAV has to offer.
Friction shocks are replaceable, as said. Hmmmm,
BBX, ya, the suspension, up front looks a mile better than what the FAV has to offer.
Friction shocks are replaceable, as said. Hmmmm,
I didn't run the brushed Tamiya motor for more than a few batteries as the ESC died quickly. It was an old Tamiya combo I'd had for several years.
My brushless motor is around 3500KV and I've been quite happy with that on 2S.
And yeah, to adjust the ball diff it's not that much work. You either need to remove the transmission (9 screws) or remove the rear suspension arm (2 very long screws) to pull the swing shaft out of the drive cup. But even then you still need a very tiny flathead screwdriver to make the adjustment.
