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Dok's Crawler

DokWatson

Newbie
Joined
Jun 28, 2017
Messages
31
Location
USA
Dok's "AK49" Crawler

New to the RC world. I'm a professional wrench turner that has built and wheeled real life crawlers as a hobby. Small stuff on 42" tires. I bought me and my daughter a cheap RC car from Walmart to play with, and I burnt the motor in the first 10 minutes. After that, I thought there must be a better way... and discovered the RC crawler world. I bought an Axial Bomber last weekend, and have started building it. I'm building it like I did my fullsize rig, geared dirt nasty low with a lot of torque.

Out of the box, reverse didn't work. Then the ESC literally almost caught on fire in the first 10 minutes, but I disconnected the battery in time. I tore apart the AE-5 and it looked like the positive battery cable solder melted and caused a short to negative. Good thing I disconnected the battery so quickly.

I replaced the ESC with a Holmes Hobbies Torquemaster, programmed it with castle link, put in an Axial 55 turn motor, Axial 11 tooth pinion, and Axial aluminum servo horn. I have a BEC, I'm waiting on a Savox 1210 servo and Vanquish steering links. I also have some slipper pads on the way, so I can install my Axial 68T spur gear.

The way I usually build anything, is run the hell out of it and upgrade whatever breaks next. As far as preemptive upgrades go I'll regear the axles, beef up the links, and get some taller tires. I'd like more belly clearance, and less bendy plastic components. The stock driveshafts also annoy me with how sloppy they are.

So far it crawls nice and slow, with a decent amount of power on tap for wheel speed when I need it.

Here it is pretty much stock. I'll take more pictures as things happen.

 
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Welcome. You'll find a lot of guys in this hobby turn wrenches for a living, I'm a working foreman at a Mercedes dealership in Montana.

Also came up in the 1:1 world, just sold my SAS'd Xterra and picked up an 83 Toyota to play with "thumbsup"

Electronics, links and wheels/tires/foams make a huge difference from stock. Don't ignore the foams, Crawler Innovations have always treated me right.
 
Last time I did any full-size wheeling was 2011-2012. I had an M1028 CUCV. I've got a 1971 GMC C25 and 2015 Camaro now. Someday I might get back into full-size stuff.

Im thinking about getting some RC4WD tires to match my old ones.
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Thanks, I'll keep those bookmarked.

Went out for a rip today. Really impressed with this rig. The motor and gear combination keeps everything barely warm to the touch. I played around for almost 2 hours and my 2s 5000mah didn't cut off.

I definitely need the new steering links, that plastic tie rod is worthless. I also most certainly want more ground clearance, those tires will find their way on this rig. I think I'll also get metal lower links and front diff cover. The plastic ones get beat up.

Surprisingly, the stock cheapo servo hasn't died yet.

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My stock servo did not die until I upgraded to the Incision stainless steering links and the Axial metal servo horn. Once I did these mods, the stock servo literally broke in the first hour. It could not handle the added torque.

I think the flex of the stock plastic links are keeping yours alive.
 
I already have links and a servo ordered. Waiting for them to get here so I can solder my BEC in.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
 
If you want better ground clearance without raising your CoG, I'd highly recommend going to Wraith length or Twin Hammers length trailing arms. There's nothing but positives to gain from this swap especially since you're focusing primarily on crawling. Better break over angle, tighter steering, and much less torque twist are the biggest improvements. Here's a link to a good thread with lots of info.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-rr10-bomber/552385-wheelbase-vs-trailing-arm-length.html

And here's a pic of the comparison between stock length TAs (left) and Twin Hammers length TAs (right).
 

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Awesome man. I also was in the 1:1 world some 15+ yrs back...Like you, maybe I'll get back to it one day.8)

And I agree with Screamer on the trailing arm lengths. Tried the Wraith length, then TwinHammers length and the overall performance increase in crawling and trail bashing was noticeable with the TH length.
 
Those are some really nice pics, Dok...and awesome variance of terrain.

I've been running my Bomber in similar terrain, except also up/down waterfall terrain. It's cool being able to not worry about getting it wet. People always make comments on the Bomber and how capable it is. I've even been told that I'm pretty good at driving it. ** humble thanks **

Now if I can convince my GF that we need another one so she can drive with me...
 
If you want better ground clearance without raising your CoG, I'd highly recommend going to Wraith length or Twin Hammers length trailing arms. There's nothing but positives to gain from this swap especially since you're focusing primarily on crawling. Better break over angle, tighter steering, and much less torque twist are the biggest improvements. Here's a link to a good thread with lots of info.

So is the TLDR version, Twin Hammers trailing arms with wraith upper links? lol. There was a lot of shit being discussed in that thread.
 
Awesome man. I also was in the 1:1 world some 15+ yrs back...Like you, maybe I'll get back to it one day.8)

And I agree with Screamer on the trailing arm lengths. Tried the Wraith length, then TwinHammers length and the overall performance increase in crawling and trail bashing was noticeable with the TH length.

My boss at work is also into RC and wheeled back in the day. I told him I liked this RC stuff, it costs less when you break things :lmao:
 
Those are some really nice pics, Dok...and awesome variance of terrain.

I've been running my Bomber in similar terrain, except also up/down waterfall terrain. It's cool being able to not worry about getting it wet. People always make comments on the Bomber and how capable it is. I've even been told that I'm pretty good at driving it. ** humble thanks **

Now if I can convince my GF that we need another one so she can drive with me...

Yeah, its about 5 minutes from my house too. I avoid complete submersion in water though, I feel like its just asking for trouble. Even with the waterproof ESC and servo. But yeah, it is nice not having to worry about the occasional splash. My GF drove mine today at the same spot. She admitted its pretty fun.
 
Went for a hike today, took the rig out. Forgot my phone, so my GF took a few pictures for me. Sorry about the lower quality pictures. I drove the whole way up that rock face. Awesome trip.

Stopped at the mailbox afterwords. Got my servo and vanquish links. Soldered in the BEC and installed everything. Running the Savo 1210 at 7.4v, works great. Wish I had them for the trip.

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New stuff installed pic. I had an issue with the servo glitching when the battery started getting down to 7.4v. I figured the BEC didn't like that. I'm not sure exactly how this BEC is designed... but usually funny things happen when voltage regulator input is less than their intended output unless they are designed to provide peak available voltage after the input drops. Given the size of the BEC, I don't think it has the right components to do that. I may be wrong. (Tactical power generation specialist in me talking. Sorry) Since I'm running 2S it made sense to lower the BEC output to 7v. If it starts glitching, I'll know to switch batteries anyways. That'll keep me off the auto LiPo cutoff. Batteries should be happier this way.

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Im debating on shortening my wheelbase, but I do a lot of steep climbing. For flat rock climbing, shorter wheelbase would help with the belly drag for sure. I'm more interested in nasty vertical climbs. Shortening the wheelbase would limit how far I can reach going straight up. There are several runs I do where a long wheelbase is the only reason I could make it. What do you guys think?

I ordered RC4WD 2.2 Baja Claws. I originally wanted Interco's for nostalgic reasons... but I always wanted 54" Baja Claws on my 1:1 rig.
 
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