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Dingo Body needs.... something.....???

SHIT!

Even that photobucket help link wont show up right!

WTF?

I clicked on share media & albums FWIW,
on the lefthand sidebar
 
Canada to the rescue!!

Holding my ass up from 2300 miles away. (3780 km)

HA! And you picked the best technical aspect picture too....
 
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Well what do you know, my stupid ass finally figured out how to get the pics to post!
Funny thing is, what Im doing now just didnt work before?? OH Well....

Anyway, to celebrate, Im going to post up the pics of the mould box and the silicone 2-piece mould I made to duplicate the PSP plates. I am useing the Alumilite Super Casting kit from HobbyLobby thats 70 bucks, but with their 40% off weekly coupons, its a steal at 42 bucks, and you get everything you need to start.

If anybody ever thought about trying this, its pretty easy to do. If you have a ton of scalers like I do, its a blessing to be able to fabricate just one master, and pop off a bunch of duplicates in ten minutes, because thats all the time it takes for the resin to cure.
Its a lot of work to make the master and mould, but the payoff is worth it,
bacause after that, you can shoot out copies like a Xerox machine!

Had to do a two piece mould for the PSP plates because of the holes. You wouldnt be able to pull the duplicate out with a one pour mould because the silicone would form right through the holes, trapping the duplicate. Cutting the mould in half after wouldnt work either, because of the beveled reliefs in the holes, and the support formers on the bottom of the plate. Even if you cut it along the top of the plate to pull out the duplicate, it would eventually tear the mould to pieces.

Sooooo, first thing to do is imbed the piece half way into the included synthetic clay. That sets the seam line where it will show the least, and be easy to clean up after you cast the resin.

Then you build a mould box to hold everything together and contain the first pouring of the silicone. After that you pull the mould box apart and remove the clay, but leave the master in the silicone half of the mould you just poured and let cure. (8-18 hours, depending on the size)

Then you just flip the first half of the mould over, put it back in the mould box, brush on some mould release, (I use Vaseline) and pour the second half of the mould.

I wont get to cast my first sample untill around 9PM tonight (Eastern time),
but confidance is high, and Ill post up pics of the casting if it works right or not.
Wish me luck!


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While I am waiting for the second half of the mould to cure I thought it was a good time to fabricate some wheel wells for the dingo.

I like to use clear lexan to make patterns for these. Its easy to get the frame lines and holes correct because you can see through it.
Whenever I buy something in a blister/shell type packaging,
I allways save the material for stuff like this.

I use margerine tubs most of the time, but on the dingo with the flares,
the fender openings were just too big.
So for a change, I made these ones square-ish out of styrene....


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Thats a lot of great work and nice described pictures. You look like you really enjoy this stuff"thumbsup".

Rig look great.
 
Will styrene hold up to the punishment a wheel arch would go through?
Sorry if I noobied out, I just haven't used it before.
Great work on the dingo anywho, never was the biggest fan of them but your on the path to converting me! :D
 
Thanks folks, for all the nice comments.
Makes me want to keep going, and try harder for even better results....

I really do get a kick out of this stuff. I used to be real big into model
building when I was younger, but my eyes and hands just dont deal with
those tiny, small details very well any more.
These rigs are more my size now.

Besides, when I am done with these "Models", I get to drive them around
instead of just looking at them in an acrylic box on a shelf!!!!


Fuzaty, YES!, styrene can and will hold up to a lot of abuse.
Its not much different from the hard body material that Tamiya and the like produce. The same glues are even used.

There are master builders, far greater than I ever will be,
that build entire bodies out of the stuff, even whole rigs, frame and all.

But you have to engineer it correctly to make it strong.

For instance, on my wells, what the pics dont easily show is
after I glued the well pieces together with plastruct liquid cement
to hold them in place, I drew a line of CA into the mating joints
in a "gusset weld" fashion to give them strength.

If you look real close, you can see the "weld".

Its little things like this, that gives the pieces the ability to hold up under actual use, and not just look nice "on a shelf"....

And whats cool is, they realy look like welds LOL!!!


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Looking good...very creative. I'm curious to see how the mold comes out.
Congrats on uploading your pics...easy once you know how eh?"thumbsup"
 
OK, got the molds all done, and I cast my first good piece.
Came out pretty good if you ask me........

Mold looks like a big stick of butter when its done! :lmao:

MMMMMMMM... butter........

I did clean the flash off the piece in the last pic to show the detail,
but left on the filler funnel flash piece to show its the cast piece,
in case my camera flash was so bright they both ended up looking white.
(turns out the camera flash never went off,
but you can tell which is the cast piece anyway)

The resin I used comes out tan after mixing and curing,
but they have dyes you can add to color the final casting.

I plan on painting these, so didnt bother with any dyes.
That way I can have some that look like show pieces on
the side of a rig, and some weathered to look beat to hell.

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First resin pour didnt go so well... LOL!

I dicked around too long and the resin started setting before I could
get enough in the mold.

With the stuff I have, you need to heat the mold in the microwave for about 30 seconds,
pour out half an ounce each of the 2 parts of the resin,
mix it like crazy as fast as you can,
and then pour it into the mold...

ALL WITHIN 90 SECONDS!!!!

When the reaction takes place, its as fast as turning on a light,
and if you didnt go quick enough, your out of luck.

I need to get some resin with a longer working time, for sure....

But Ill tell you what, I will paint this one up anyway,
then weather it up so rusty looking you would think it sat in a salt water puddle since the Korean war!

It will make a nice set piece laying on the ground next to the rig
for scaler photo poser shots.

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Awesome work and very inspiring. I am a modeler too and have worked with strene some. I am currently on year 2 of a custom 69 super bee drag car. Have had to do a ton of custom fab and work to it. Although I am not even close to being as efficient as you... I work on it for a few days and then off a few. I actually havent worked on it for a couple months now but need to get back to it before I forget what I am doing...lol. Anyways. Excellent work!
 
I got a few more things done and figured I would keep
posting up the progress pics as a follow up to the
PSP plates and cab topper untill the build is done and painted.

Thats when we will all know if it was worth the effort...

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Very cool build and great information!! I never really cared much for the Dingo body, but this build is making me look at in a whole new light.

Nicely done so far "thumbsup"
 
OK, plate mounts seem to work well.
I took some styrene tube that was the same diameter as the Dingo
tube frame and fish-mouthed one end to mate the cage,
then cut it to size so it pinched the lower angle/plate holder nice and tight against the bodies bed rail.

It will all glue together for strength, and when painted black will
look like it was a part of the Dingo cage out of the box.

That upright piece of tubing also allowed me to fabricate an upper
angle piece to hold the PSP plate down snug, but it lets me slide
the plate out towards the rear so I can get an extra two fingers
in the back to get the body pins on and off.

After its all painted up, Ill just tie the front of the plate to the tube frame
with some scale rope, or make a fastener strap out of bunting ribbon,
like some guys use for tow straps, but the thinner stuff.

I can still hide the front body pins if I decide to make a velcro
body post plate, because I can just cut another diamond plate hood
piece without the post holes.

The Dingo is great for that, because you can make your velcro body
post plate to fit right inside the elevated section of the center
of the hood, and it will align the body perfectly every time.

The rear body pins are pretty much hidden by the rear spare
and PSP plates, plus all the scale stuff that will end up in the back,
so I will leave those be no matter what I do up front.

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wow this is amazing, i just ordered a scx10 dingo builders kit, kinda was lookin for some body ideas since i never thought i would own a LR body. in the end i will proly get a jeep body but if im gonna get a dingo body mine aswell use it :D
 
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