Debating a builders kit

[Ty89m]

I'm new to the crawler scene, but have been having a blast building all the kits I can get my hands on! I have the SCX10.3 and am interested in seeing what the SCX10.2 kit is all about - plus it's something different.


A few questions for you SCX10.2 pro's...


How's the life span looking for the 10.2? It's getting a tad long in the tooth, so would hate to see parts dry up - that said, I'm pretty easy on my stuff, and with the aftermarket parts available, I'm not sure I'd have issues with parts down the road.


Also, it seems there's some differences between the RTR and the builders kit, is it just the transmission that differs? I really like the grey Cherokee body, but I don't need the electronics, and building is a big part of the fun! Shame I can't buy those bodies pre-painted.


Without going nuts, is there any MUST have upgrades to get things solid from the get go? I've got a set of SSD shocks that I intend to run, or some Desert Lizards, but how about shock towers, axles etc?


As of this moment, I've got a spare Traxxas 2255 Hitorque servo, a Firma 40A ESC/RX combo, and a Holmes Crawlmaster Sport 16T sitting here. All my other rigs are running brushless setups, so figured I'd give bruhsed a go with this one.



If anyone can shed some light on those questions, it would be much appreciated!


Thanks "thumbsup"

 

[King Dork]

Only thing I was going to suggest were the shocks, given that the Builders’s kit comes with plastic shock bodies which is a complete head scratcher. You already have that covered so build it and go. I can’t say with any certainty whatsoever but the platform is still very popular and I wouldn’t expect parts to be a concern, but a majority of rigs parts can be used on other platforms with a little creativity. I’ve had the UMG10 for several years and it’s a stunningly capable rig and is relatively stock with the exception of SSD brass up front and pen spring mod on the shocks to lower the CG slightly.

 

[King Dork]

Also, only thing that I want to upgrade on mine is an aftermarket set of aluminum front shock hoops with an integrated panhard mount. Like most kits it’s plastic and flexes, but had mine for several years and haven’t broken the stock one.

 

[Ty89m]

thanks for the info!



It's a bit confusing, as the UMG seems to have the 2 speed trans option, as did the now discontinued Cherokee kit, but the RTR and builders kit don't as far as I can tell. It also appears the trans in the RTR and builders kit are slightly different, but perhaps that's just in color.

 

[vinnieb729]

The Cherokee kit and the UMG10 kit use the scx10 II transmission. It's two speed capable with optional part Axial Racing - SCX10 Transmission 2-Speed Gear Set. There's a few other aftermarket 2 speed kits from places like SSD or Locked Up.

The grey Cherokee RTR uses the original SCX10 transmission...commonly referred to as the AX10 or 3 gear trans. The other SCX10 II RTR's have a silver looking trans called the LCX. It's a simplified version of the AX10/3gear trans before it. It combines the entire trans/motor plate and spur gear cover into 3 parts. The internals are the same with the exception of the top shaft...I think. It's single speed only. https://www.amazon.com/AXIAL-LCX-Transmission-Case-Silver/dp/B07FXP8KQR

 

[Ty89m]

Yeesh! Thanks for clarifying that. So it looks like the builders kit is in fact single speed only. No a huge deal, and I'd assume I could source the SCX II transmission if I really wanted the 2 speed. Shame they had to discontinue the Cherokee kit that came with clear body and that newer transmission.

 

[King Dork]

Lol! Yeah the UMG10 does have the 2-speed transmission. I never opted for the “optional” gears to make it a 2 speed, and I’ve debated getting the. Bowhouse skid plate and putting a regular 3 gear trans in it. I only referenced the UMG10 because it’s a version of the SCX10.2 platform and the 10.2 platform performs excellent and it’s still a good buy and I’d definitely recommend it. Still has great stock and aftermarket support. Like to see what you get and how you set it up.

 

[Ty89m]

Does the Unimog kit chassis work with other bodies, specifically the Cherokee?



Either way, I'll certainly keep you posted. I've got two 10.3 setups, but figured trying something a bit different (and something that would be compatible with more than 1 body) would be a nice change "thumbsup"

 

[durok]

The UMG10 has an 11.4" wheelbase, about an inch shorter than most standard crawlers - such as the 12.3" Cherokee

 

[SCX10 JK]

I would say go for an original Cherokee kit if you can find one. Scour eBay and local sources. I love my kit Cherokee so far and I snagged off ebay for 175 bucks minus electronics. Small picture is from the listing and larger one is as she sits now with the HW 1080 and a HH crawlmaster sport 8t 550. Looking to do the 2 speed conversion soon so it crawls and trails. Right now on 3s it works well all around. I also added the inner fender kit as well makes a huge difference as to the looks of it as well as keeping inside cleaner.

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[Ty89m]

That looks great! I've always been a sucker for Cherokee's, had about 5 of them thus far. Anyway, worst case, I can grab the unpainted clear body and the builders kit and toss something together "thumbsup"

 

[SCX10 JK]

Yeah same here I love them. Have a 99 and a 96 in the family as well. Scale size or full size they are hard to beat.

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[Timmahh]

I went with the SSD Trail King basically being an upgraded SCX10 II kit. Single speed tranny only.

Otherwise. a great build and all scx10II is pretty much compatible.

It is about 50 more than the II kit from Axial.

 

[SCX10 JK]

Sweet sounds like a good idea too. There are tons of similar options available.

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[1FSTLS1]

I am in the same boat as the op. I have 2 TRX4 and love them. Never was a Traxxas fan. Is there any chance there will be a kit version similar to the SCX10 II of the SCX10 III. If so would it be worth waiting for. Seems like $200 for the 10 II kit version is a good buy.

 

[SCX10 JK]

For me it was a steal granted it was already built but with the kits being discontinued and most used ones are super abused from what I've seen. I couldn't resist.

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[lonleycreeper]

Axial is still supporting the scx10II

In my opinion the simplicity of the 10II, more than makes up for its shortcomings, and then it has arguably the best aftermarket support. SSD and Vanquish both made complete rigs based on the scx10II!
I doubt 10II parts will dry up in the next few years. While the 10III is the newest, the latest and greatest, It has shortcomings too. and I am not sold on portals.

If I was in your shoes, I would buy the raw builders kit build it. then pick up the tires and wheels that you like and an electronics package... Then it sounds like finding a body will be the most challenging aspect.

 

[v33]

------->8 SNIP 8<-------
A few questions for you SCX10.2 pro's...

How's the life span looking for the 10.2? It's getting a tad long in the tooth, so would hate to see parts dry up - that said, I'm pretty easy on my stuff, and with the aftermarket parts available, I'm not sure I'd have issues with parts down the road.

Like lonelycreeper mentioned, the aftermarket support for the 10.2 is the best, VP, SSD, and a ton of manufacturers support and designed really good parts for this platform.

Also, it seems there's some differences between the RTR and the builders kit, is it just the transmission that differs? I really like the grey Cherokee body, but I don't need the electronics, and building is a big part of the fun! Shame I can't buy those bodies pre-painted.

The RTR is marketed towards people that dont want to invest time into building and configuring the rigs. I avoid RTR's... never bought one and never will! :lmao:

For a few more $$$ you can buy a holmes crawlmaster sport and pair it with a hobbywing 1080 esc and have better performing electronics for crawling that stock RTR. radios and recievers you can also get used, thats another option... or if you have a radio already then an extra reciever would be the best. I use a Sanwa MT44 to control my 3 crawlers and drifters, my 3 crawlers also have waterproof electronics

One thing to consider about the running a Cherokee body is it's top heavy, it looks great but running a heavy top will just cause your rigs to roll down side hills :lmao: this is why i love crawling using pickup trucks.

Without going nuts, is there any MUST have upgrades to get things solid from the get go? I've got a set of SSD shocks that I intend to run, or some Desert Lizards, but how about shock towers, axles etc?

when i started out, my first build went nuts with all those alloy upgrades... that was then, now i prefer the plastic shock towers and mostly stock parts to keep weight to a minimum.

the most import upgrade are alloy beadlock wheels and a set of good tires that is proven to perform great in the terrain you run on. Ask friends/hobbiest in your area what they run. Hyrax sucks in my part of the globe and Proline Swampers G8/Predator compounds are the best all around tires here, the KLR reds too. there are (2020/20211) tire releases, but i have not tested them yet.

the important thing is weight distribution and lower center or gravity. check online videos how to achieve this.

As of this moment, I've got a spare Traxxas 2255 Hitorque servo, a Firma 40A ESC/RX combo, and a Holmes Crawlmaster Sport 16T sitting here. All my other rigs are running brushless setups, so figured I'd give bruhsed a go with this one.

I have not tried those, but my bullet proof setup is a Holmes crawlmaster sport 10T/12T (my comp rig has a crawlmaster Pro 10T), a Hobbywing 1080 esc, Savox 1210sg waterproof servo. the holmes/1080 gives really good response and feel compared to my AXE systems (i sold all my AXE's and went brushed)

These are my current comp rigs for 2021... all custom now

If anyone can shed some light on those questions, it would be much appreciated!

Hope this helps