Crawl master, OG 1080, new flysky gtb3 not working together

[hillbillyrc]

I finally got around to setting up my electronics for a new build and was trying to use what I had. Brand new hobby wing 1080 (OG not v2), picked up a new HH crawl master sport 13T and I recently got a flysky gtb3 for my birthday. Soldered motor wires to motor and wanted to bench test before install. Hooked up a full charged 3s battery. Get to the set up of the 1080 And won't get past the neutral throttle position set up. It won't recognize full throttle position to move on. I'm not getting the beeps. Even desoldered the motor wiring and swapped them on the motor has the research I've done so far had suggested but still the same thing.

Any help would be great?

 

[bgredjeep]

Obvious items i can think of to check is the trim on the radio (zero out), esc on ch2.

Did you hook up a servo to make sure the radio is working since the throttle seems non responsive?

 

[hillbillyrc]

I had a servo hooked up and nothing. Tried rebinding the receiver. Nothing still. I still have factory electronics from my element SE I think I will try to use those to eliminate/ isolate the problem.

 

[nightcrawler48]

What receiver are you using? Are you sure it is actually bound to the transmitter? The FS-GTB3 (and FS-GTC3) transmitter is only compatible with Flysky AFHDS protocol receivers. This means you need a FS-GR3E receiver. I'm not aware of any other receivers the FS-GTB3 will be compatible with, except maybe an Axial AR-3.

 

[OSRC]

Still sounds like a bind issue. When you turn on the esc, it should beep three times indicating a 3s, and then once to indicate the bind. If you only get three beeps, the receiver and the radio are not playing well together. What is the light doing on the receiver? Is it solid red or blinking? If it's blinking it's not properly bound to the radio.

If it's solid red, try putting the ESC lead into Channel One and see if it will work with the steering channel. That might help narrow down the issue.

For what it's worth, I never use set any throttle endpoints or anything. I use the exact same ESC/radio combo on a bunch of rigs and it self-learns. The only thing I have to do usually is flip the throttle forward to reverse depending on what I've got it set up in.

 

[hillbillyrc]

What receiver are you using? Are you sure it is actually bound to the transmitter? The FS-GTB3 (and FS-GTC3) transmitter is only compatible with Flysky AFHDS protocol receivers. This means you need a FS-GR3E receiver. I'm not aware of any other receivers the FS-GTB3 will be compatible with, except maybe an Axial AR-3.

It's the new receiver that came with the new transmitter. But I might have messed with the binding trying to figure everything out.

 

[hillbillyrc]

Still sounds like a bind issue. When you turn on the esc, it should beep three times indicating a 3s, and then once to indicate the bind. If you only get three beeps, the receiver and the radio are not playing well together. What is the light doing on the receiver? Is it solid red or blinking? If it's blinking it's not properly bound to the radio.

If it's solid red, try putting the ESC lead into Channel One and see if it will work with the steering channel. That might help narrow down the issue.

For what it's worth, I never use set any throttle endpoints or anything. I use the exact same ESC/radio combo on a bunch of rigs and it self-learns. The only thing I have to do usually is flip the throttle forward to reverse depending on what I've got it set up in.

After reading this, I'm going to use the tx/rx from my element SE since I swapped it to a different setup. Just to take the flysky out of the equation. Then I can add it back in once I get everything working right.

 

[ferp420]

try powering the reciver with a small 2s battery that will tell you if the radio and reciver are working right

also make sure the wires are in the reciver right and not backwords ive done that more times than i like to admit lol

 

[benoj]

I personally wouldn’t hook a 2s up to it as those rx are only rated to 6.5v. Otherwise I’d find the binding plug and just try rebinding the rx to the tx

 

[hnoroian]

also make sure the wires are in the reciver right and not backwords ive done that more times than i like to admit lol

this and rebind. 4AA batteries are okay to power a receiver.

 

[ferp420]

I personally wouldn’t hook a 2s up to it as those rx are only rated to 6.5v. Otherwise I’d find the binding plug and just try rebinding the rx to the tx

a AA battery can run up to 2v fully charged so 8.4v isent that far off
ive never had a issue running then on 2s and i have around 20 or so of those recivers

 

[bgredjeep]

Agreed. I run my esc's bec at 8.4 on several rigs. No issues

 

[jes4man]

I have had several FS-GR3E receivers arrive dead out of the box/bag. Never the one that came with the transmitter though. It is always very frustrating trying to figure out what is wrong and second guessing everything I was doing. Every time it was the damn dead receiver.

 

[89Industries]

I have had several FS-GR3E receivers arrive dead out of the box/bag. Never the one that came with the transmitter though. It is always very frustrating trying to figure out what is wrong and second guessing everything I was doing. Every time it was the damn dead receiver.

I have two receivers that have just one dead channel. Not sure how. I agree rx problems are frustrating.

They are not futaba rx's, just mentioning because rx layouts seem pretty similar so seems it could happen as well

 

[nightcrawler48]

One thing I have not seen in all this discussion is, do we know if the ESC and receiver are actually powered up when plugged in to the battery?
1) Disconnect everything from the ESC - the motor and the receiver. Connect a battery to the ESC. Press the power/program button to power on the ESC. Press the button for less than 3 seconds to power the ESC ON, any longer than 3 seconds and the ESC will be in manual program mode. If this happens, just unplug the battery and start over.
2) What do you see? At this point, the ESC LED should at least be quickly flashing indicating there is power to the ESC. If the LED is not flashing, or on in some fashion, then there is a problem with the ESC.
3) If the ESC LED is flashing rapidly, the ESC has power. Next step is to plug the power/signal wire from the ESC into channel 2 of the receiver. Do not turn on the transmitter yet. If the receiver LED is flashing rapidly, then there is output from the ESC to the receiver. The rapid flashing of the receiver LED indicates the receiver is not connected to the transmitter. At this time, that is okay.
4) If both the ESC and receiver have power to them (LEDs flashing/on), then you can test what happens when the transmitter is turned on. Either unplug the battery or use the ESC power button to disconnect from the battery. Turn on the transmitter, power up the ESC and see if you have the flashing LEDs on the ESC and receiver. If the receiver LED is still rapidly flashing, it is not bound to the transmitter and you will need to re-bind.
5) NOTE: I found when I was using a FS-GT3C that it sometimes took multiple attempts to get the receiver to bind to the transmitter. Kind of frustrating and you begin to wonder if there is something wrong with transmitter or the receiver. You do not need the servo plugged in to the receiver at this time.
6) If you make it to this point with power to the ESC and receiver and the receiver is bound to the transmitter, it is time to connect the motor and servo. Connect the motor to the ESC first. Check to see if the motor works when the throttle is pulled. If this works, plug in the steering servo and see if you have steering, or if everything shuts down. That generally indicates the servo is defective.
7) Generally I haven't had issues if a motor fails, it just doesn't work. Bad steering servos can cause multiple issues. That's why when I am having weird issues, the first thing I will do is unplug the servo and see everything else works.

I believe the "beeps" indicating power and system ready are generated through the motor, not the ESC, so you won't hear the "beeps" until the motor is connected. I could be wrong about this but I thought I read that somewhere years ago.

Don't know if this helps? Good luck.