considering buying a Trail Finder 2

[Alexei]

im considering buying a Trail Finder 2 standard wheelbase kit, but from previous research i have done i found the quality of its parts can vary quite some.
specifically hardware, shocks, axle assemblies and drive shafts.
i can figure out getting some other hardware and shocks, no biggie.



but i dont know about axle assemblies and drive shafts.
what do people usually use for upgrades on those 2 areas?

 

[rob5059]

The RC4WD hardware is hit or miss, definitely worth an upgrade.
I have 2 TF2 running BRX80 axles, and a TF2 and Gelande running Yota 2 axles.

The Yota axles need XVD front axle shafts, and you need to shim them. The K44 axle is a direct replacement with XVD shafts and stronger knuckles.

The BRX80 axles are narrower, good for a 3.85 tire or smaller. You can add OD gears and brass knuckles but you need to limit steering. Tire will hit the leaf springs.

BRX90/AR44 axles are wider. Can run OD gears and brass knuckles and 4.19 tires. The tires stick out past the body.
On the BRX axles, the leafs bolt up the sale as the Yota axle. No ride height change.
AR44 3 piece axles with JEC spring mount increase the ride height.
The RC4WD leaf mount for the one piece AR44 axles raise the height even more.

The Yota or K44 axle with XVD is an OK axle for a trail rig. Before you start changing axles, you need to have an idea of what your final build is going to be.

 

[Alexei]

it's going to be a trail rig.
if replacement axles are narrower, then i guess i could just get some wheels with more offset. in any case, i do not want huge tires.

 

[Speedy-Triple]

The TF2 is definitely a nice truck to THINKER with ... meaning you will likely need to mod and fix things on it to make it satisfying to drive ... its clunky, stiff an a bit of a dud performance wise compare to the different options available in the market. First if its a RTR model you will want to take most apart and go throughout it with loctide. It is much scale than some of the lexan counterparts with its hardbodies. This is the reason most of us got into one for the scale appearance rather than a performance truck, not saying that it can perform but it is far behind in that department being an older platform, top heavy and clunky to be honest. Most enthusiast who get into one like to thinker mod and upgrade as part of ownership. The durability would be dependent of your approach ... mild trail truck with adequate power should work fine for most but I can see people expecting it to be a beast with 4s powered electronics that will likely kill your gears and drivetrain. I have one that I run a 1080 on 3s and it does great a bit slow with a holmes can but its sure has good low end control. The shocks are well lets just say for show unless you go with a linked set up, the leaf springs do all the work since the stock shocks leak they only provide a bit of dampening when they are filled, I run them with some heavy oil but they still leaked even with all the noleen on the shock shafts. Also the leafs will take time to break in and you will not see much flex until they get soft but then when that happens you will start to get axle wrapped. As you can see its not for everyone, and it tends to disappoint RC enthusiast who want a RTR to do everything great without any input to fix all of its issues. I am happy with mine but I have done many things to it to be contempt with its performance even though its not as capable as some of my other Rigs its definetely another experience to drive it according to its capabilities.

 

[B-MOW71]

My 2 cents on this topic. I have the TF2 Marlin and it has been a great trail truck and is surprising very capable on difficult terrain, once the leaf springs are worn in. BUT...not without an immediate tear down and rebuild right out of the box.

You can check out my Marlin thread here: (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/rc4wd-trail-finder-2/607692-b-mow-buys-tf2-marlin-crawler.html) for more info on the things that I had to do to mine to make it trail ready. Lack of thread lock, loose screws and other issues need attention before first drive.

As my Marlin sits today, the stock Yota 2 axles are still installed on it, but I did have to buy new driveshafts. The stock driveshafts aren't very good. I installed the A&M Garage front bumper which required a longer front driveshaft. That is explained in my Marlin thread.

The Yota 2 axles have been OK, but I think they will get replaced with a beefier axle once they wear out.

All in all, my Marlin has been a great truck and I wouldn't be afraid to buy another one.

 

[Alexei]

ok, pretty much decided to order one (kit version). first upgrade will be the hardware, the other will come along whether things break or do hold up.

B-MOW71 i did actually find your thread the other day. lots of interesting stuff.

 

[Fricker08]

I have a build thread also, Bmow does great threads so reading his is a good start. I built my kit with stainless hardware off the bat, and greased everything myself. My Tf2 now doesn’t have much rc4wd left. Ar44 axles are the most common swap. I put vanquish F10t’s under mine. But the few times I drove mine bone stock, it had a trailer behind it the entire time and blew my mind what it would do. Hope you enjoy it!


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[1fox2go]

Driveshafts are a must, so order a set now before you even get yours built.

After that there are a few mods you can do along the build to help it out. Springs in the shocks, chino mod, shackle reversal kit, Re arranging the leaf springs in the leaf packs, Then its drive it a lot to soften the springs

Its a truck for people that like to tinker and wrench for sure

I had the kit version, traded it for stuff, missed the wrenching and tinkering and bought the Midnight version. I prefer the single speed transmission, black body, and swampers any way

 

[Alexei]

i received the TF2, and i see what the deal is with the drive shafts now.

 

[B-MOW71]

i received the TF2, and i see what the deal is with the drive shafts now.

Nice, glad to hear you have it in hand. The driveshafts are wonderful.:ror:

The front driveshaft gets even worse if you do the A&M Garage front bumper shackle reversal.

Looking forward to seeing more of your new TF2."thumbsup"

 

[Speedy-Triple]

I installed a set of incision driveshafts from VP and newer had a problem, the original shafts have a lot of play in the yokes.

 

[Alexei]

i have seen some other threads with people using the Incision drive shafts, so those have my interest.
is there more than one type of the Incision drive shafts, because i only find for SCX10 II.
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/incision-driveshafts-for-scx10-2-rtr-scx10/

 

[Fricker08]

i have seen some other threads with people using the Incision drive shafts, so those have my interest.
is there more than one type of the Incision drive shafts, because i only find for SCX10 II.
https://www.vanquishproducts.com/incision-driveshafts-for-scx10-2-rtr-scx10/

Those are the correct ones. They fit damn near everything


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[B-MOW71]

Just a suggestion, the Incision ISD10 Driveshaft Set would work too. These are the plastic version, but are really good driveshafts.

I ended up using the Supershafty MIP HD driveshafts in mine. They are a really nice indestructible scale driveshaft set. Sadly, I don't think they are available anymore.

 

[Alexei]

would prefer to just go with metal shafts.
are the Supershafty MIP's you used for any particular version? i can them find for TRX-4.

 

[B-MOW71]

would prefer to just go with metal shafts.
are the Supershafty MIP's you used for any particular version? i can them find for TRX-4.

Yes, they were specifically designed to use with the A&M Garage TF2 High Clearance Bumper/Shackle Reversal and the TF2 High Clearance Flat Skid and Transfercase Mount.

The front bumper with shackle reversal pushes the axle forward 4mm which increases the driveshaft length. The Flat Skid raises the transfer case which also requires longer driveshafts. But like I said, these SS MIP shafts are no longer available as far as I know. If it were me, I'd just buy the Incision metal shafts.

 

[Alexei]

will think about it, but i am leaning towards getting the Inicision shafts. they are not just easier to get, but highly likely will end up being cheaper too. thanks for your inputs everyone