Chevy42083 Project: Never Too Late

[chevy42083]

Why is this section so quiet? :ror:

Well, almost 10yrs later, time to switch things up! AX10 => TCS XTrail
Here's the original thread... basically stock, bought as a roller counter display from a hobby shop, then added Mamba Max, 65t lathe, 3s lipo maxx shocks.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/288403-chevy42083s-warthog-ax10.html

Now, it'll be a bodied, semi-scale, rig based on the good ol' TCS XTrail chassis and some other really old parts I've had sitting around for ~8years.
Not sure on body yet. I have an old Tamiya S10 prerunner... but its a little small (mainly cause I want to run 2.2s and not COMPLETELY hack the body or have a monster truck). I THOUGHT I had a '34 ford truck, but can't find it. Also considering a Comanche or '70-'80s chevy fullsize.

Old parts...
OG steel Beef Tubes (hope I can remember how to fit these)
HPI HD overdrive front gears.
Links: Combination of High clearance & all-thread sleeved links.
Skid: STRC delrin w/ inboard links
STRC rear truss/4-link mount
Drive shafts: 'pede or maxx
Shocks: I've been running some sort of big bore E/T-Maxx shocks, 2 with the shock cap to rod ends from crazyorigin(?). But have a stash of associated shocks (touring car, buggy, truck) to make something work.
Tires: I've got Hammers and M3 Mashers to try out. Also some Imex Pullers for goofing around, if they'll fit. Maybe hack a body just for those.
Battery: 6cell 2/3A pack. 1500mah(?)
ESC: LRP runner (or replace with hobby wing 1080 if I want lipo)
Wheels: Junfac plastic bead locks.

New stuff...
Chassis: TCS X-trail
Motor: Holmes Crawlmaster Sport 13t
SSD double sheer high steer knuckles
Axial CVDs
Atomic RC panhard/axle brace (not sure if panhard link and servo mount will work)
Straight axle rear
Axial lockers

Sidenote: its tough finding info on the old chassis' parts when most pictures don't work anymore and lots of parts are discontinued. :ror:

 

[chevy42083]

Now for the "tricky" stuff.... anyone have issues with the width of the X-Trail chassis?

I bought scx bumper/mounts. I'd assumed (wrongly) that scx frame rails were parallel, and that I could use the ax10 skid with the scx bumper mounts.
When the bumper mounts were narrower, I assumed (wrongly again) the scx skid must be narrower... so I've got one on order to get the rails in close enough to not hinder steering angle.
NOW, I know that the scx skid IS the same width, but the frame rails pinch in at the ends on the scx.

So... should I try to put bends in the Xtrail between the skid plate and the shock towers to pinch them in for steering clearance? Maybe I'm just asking too much by wanting it low and ability to run 2.2s.
Also, I'm gonna look at possibly shaving the skid down a LITTLE narrower, so the chassis bend wouldn't need to be as big... since I'll now have both an STRC and vader delrin skid of the same width

Other than just lost steering angle... the rails are almost centered over the link/shock mounts. This seems like it would make things difficult. So I really think it needs to be brought in both front and rear. Though, rear shocks COULD go inboard of the frame and leaned towards center and front COULD get mounted outboard of the link/shock tabs (I think there's room).

If you pretend that the lower links on the upside down chassis will now be the lower links on the Xtrail chassis... this ROUGHLY puts the chassis/axles in the right location for the height at flat lower links. Though I'd probably set it a BIT higher, it won't be enough for tires to clear frame while turning (ESPECIALLY on compression).

 

[chevy42083]

Took it for one last crawl as a tuber (but with the new Crawlmaster Sport, SSD knuckles, and CVDs).

Messed around with it a bit this weekend. Trying to rough it in with the links I have, then I'll make what I need from all-thread and brake line when I have a reference point of current links.
Didn't have the right lengths to mock in the panhard and the 3rd link with the axle centered... but have a rough ball park. Kind of wish I'd gotten the vanquish panhard/3-link mount rather than this atomic "truss" panhard mount. I need a good 3-link mount, and the vanquish mounts the panhard base up higher... which would make parallel panhard/drag links much easier.

I might need to get smaller all-thread, or find some angle link ends for the size I have now. I'd planned on the revo/jato rod-ends I already have... but I need this curve for steering clearance.

With the frame at a decent height from axles to mimic mostly compressed suspension, the front pinched in to the scx brace, and the bumper pushed all the way out.... the tires don't rub anywhere. I know I'll have to give something up when it comes to actual body fitment and flex vs just straight compression... but its a decent starting point.

The body is a little short... but might throw this on a basher or for an initial build... then tweak once I get the body I really want. This is the OG kit body from my RC10t that'd spent a lot of time on there as well as on a TC3 touring car converted to "rally".
It's obviously sitting WAY too high in the rear... shocks are bound against frame and body is sitting on top of the frame rails.

I've got some misc hardware, as well as the last parts to lock out the rear axle coming in this week, so I can at least 4-link the rear and revisit the front link setup.

 

[chevy42083]

Well, it turns out to be a good thing that I ordered the 2nd skid... I like the Vader one much better than the STRC one.

Pros of Vader over STRC:
Links are inboarded more for greater triangulation (they're actually the same distance from front link mount to rear... both skids can only have links set at the furthest apart mounting chassis/skid mounting holes)
SLIGHTLY narrower @ 78mm vs the oem AX10 and STRC's 80.5mm. I might even shave it down a bit more.
It isn't hollowed out, carved deeper, set down, etc to lower trans... so the trans won't need washers/spacers to get the motor high enough to clear the links. I never saw the point in a dropped skid if you just needed to space things up off it.
The corners by links are 45ed to avoid links rubbing on the skid (I was going to need to shave the STRC because they were rubbing)
Screws are counter sunk deeper so they won't get messed up.
Links mount with a trick hidden 3mm shaft (probably same as the threaded rod used in the oem links).. So links can be left on skid while removing frame mounting screws.
Links mounts are essentially "double sheer".

Cons:
Slightly heavier since its twice as thick over the middle area.
Bottom edge doesn't have the angled kick up to avoid snagging rocks. I'll at least round it off, not sure how much meat I want to remove.
Deeper set trans mount screw holes might snag when sliding.

The only real progress has been putting in some OG Steel beef tubes, axial straight axles, and the axial "HD" iron cross locker. I happened to stumble on the "Locked Up FI lockers" after I ordered the axial ones, and now realize they would be much better... but they are also $20ea rather than Axials $15/pair.
The straight axle's inner lip doesn't clear the inside of the Beef Tubes. I was starting to grind it down when I decided to just slide the axles in the other direction before assembling the axles. Sure, I have to split cases to remove the axles... but I doubt that'll ever be an issue.
Most say when you cut off the servo mount posts from the top of the axle that they don't leave a hole into the housing. Mine do. Maybe the previous owner put too long a screw and broke through. Either way, I'll be sealing that with some glue/RTV.
I'm debating a coating of grease on the entire beef tube to prevent any rust/corrosion... but don't really want to completely muck up the axles.
I never added any additional weight to my rig, and these axles feel pretty hefty now... so I'm curious how that'll affect the performance. Looking forward to it!

 

[stimpy]

Looking good man!..

I've still got a set of XR modded ax axles sat around waiting for something "thumbsup"

 

[chevy42083]

Regretting not researching the panhard mount more :/
I didn't realize that this one mounts the link just above the axle... not raised up at all to flatten out the links.
I could raise the servo up to match the angle a little more to the panhard. But don't want MORE angle in the links. I already am not a fan of the drop down spacer at the top end of the panhard.
The 3rd link is just to the oem plastic piece.... not sure if that's an issue or not. Or if the angle is good... trying to triangulate everything as much as possible (hence the super wide lower link mounts to axle) to keep everything centered up.
Wish I'd bought the vanquish link mount instead of this atomic one (especially since I can't use the servo mount with this frame). I thought I'd wanted the truss aspect of this one... but its not working out.
MAYBE I'll use this as a template to make one with a raised up panhard mount... but that usually ends up looking like a rat chewed it into shape. :/
I've got the servo pushed back as far as possible to make sure the links don't lock out when steering full left.
I'll obviously be bending the links for clearance here and there... but mocking up straight for better visuals.

Not shown, angled and offset link ends that aren't here yet.

I've got some angled and offset 4mm rod ends coming so I can recreate all the lower links in all-thread and brake line... mainly just to get weight down low and "fix it before it breaks".

 

[chevy42083]

Messed around with the panhard and link setup some more. I decided since I've already blown the budget... might as well get a panhard mount that I like better.

You've all seen this setup... for me, the panhard lower mount is simply too low. It leaves the bar at too steep an angle for me, even with a decent spacer drop on the top mount.

There's a big difference in the angle of the links, and neither are near flat. Note that it has an offset TRX4 link at the bottom, so the actual leverage angle is steeper than it appears when just looking a the straight part of the link.

So, enter the Vanquish mount. This has a raised panhard mount as well as built in 3rd link mount... so I can scrap the oem plastic loop near the center of the axle. Seems like this would have less binding (still not sure on how much to triangulate the lower links when using a panhard setup). Not to mention it mounts the 3rd link end link to swivel down, so the link itself won't bind (like in the above setup).

FULL droop before end-links lock up. Need to try again now that shocks are on... pretty sure it won't droop this much. I plan to move the servo over to the frame rail... so the links will be even more parallel & flat.

I'm very close to a roller... just need to set the ride height and decide how much I'm going to pinch in the frame rails at the front. Once these 2 decisions are made, the panhard link length can be locked in. Then I just need to figure out a mount for the servo to lay flat against the frame and I can lock in a steering link.
I still haven't decided if I'll just stick with the 8-32 and 1/4in brake line for everything, or want to bother with 3mm rod/smaller brake line or maybe even aluminum tube to make lighter upper links. Maybe I'll get it all together and see if I can determine where the center of gravity is (height wise).