OSRC
I wanna be Dave
So i was running the 'Jero this weekend, and was getting fed up with the steering. I was not happy at all with the tons of scrub radius, the GPM rack came loose again, and it was either pulling left or pulling right depending on whichever whim it felt like at that moment. So it was time for some mods..
Out playing with 2 trailfinders, D110, SCX10II, and a GCM based rig. Sucky steering not withstanding, the CC01 kept up no problem!
First thing is first - super simple, and doing it to all my rigs - drilled a hole in the skid plate so I get to the steering screw without tearing the entire front suspension apart. Also made a small skid while I was at it. I shaved the skid down 1mm so the new rear skid sits flush. Red threadlock on the steering rack this time. :evil:
First off, let's figure out why the steering works so hard in the first place. The stock suspension geometry has a ton of scrub - especially with wider offset wheels. I dug around in parts bins until I came up with something that was close - HPI suspension parts were close enough to get started.
The front arms are not quite the right shape, so I used the rears instead. They have the same "rake" as the stock arms. I cut out some of the webbing so the C hub could slide in, added a spacer for the hub and they were a perfect fit. Aluminum arms would be best, but these will do for proof of concept.
Had to mess around a bit - the stock HPI universals didn't fit - too long. As of right now, I have the stock HPI axle and a Tamiya FF01 dogbone and already have better steering angle than stock and no binding. I'm going to try some other combos to see if I can get a CVD jammed in there.
Can see the difference in suspension geometry... The HPI parts also give me 10 degrees of negative caster, with 8 as an option..Also, I can about go about 10mm longer with the shock though I do not have one here handy.
The only drawback so far is to clear the HPI suspension, I need non-beadlock wheels...or beadlocks with a ton of offset (but that's what I was trying to avoid) so for now I moved over the entire assembly to my FJ. It also widens the rear track somewhat. It is however a much better suspension set-up - more travel, better steering, adjustable toe and camber, and built in negative caster. Not to mention that with the improved geometry, the steering servo and rack don't have to work as hard. I think with a bit more fiddling, it'll be a win.... I'll post up with it's complete.
Out playing with 2 trailfinders, D110, SCX10II, and a GCM based rig. Sucky steering not withstanding, the CC01 kept up no problem!
First thing is first - super simple, and doing it to all my rigs - drilled a hole in the skid plate so I get to the steering screw without tearing the entire front suspension apart. Also made a small skid while I was at it. I shaved the skid down 1mm so the new rear skid sits flush. Red threadlock on the steering rack this time. :evil:
First off, let's figure out why the steering works so hard in the first place. The stock suspension geometry has a ton of scrub - especially with wider offset wheels. I dug around in parts bins until I came up with something that was close - HPI suspension parts were close enough to get started.
The front arms are not quite the right shape, so I used the rears instead. They have the same "rake" as the stock arms. I cut out some of the webbing so the C hub could slide in, added a spacer for the hub and they were a perfect fit. Aluminum arms would be best, but these will do for proof of concept.
Had to mess around a bit - the stock HPI universals didn't fit - too long. As of right now, I have the stock HPI axle and a Tamiya FF01 dogbone and already have better steering angle than stock and no binding. I'm going to try some other combos to see if I can get a CVD jammed in there.
Can see the difference in suspension geometry... The HPI parts also give me 10 degrees of negative caster, with 8 as an option..Also, I can about go about 10mm longer with the shock though I do not have one here handy.
The only drawback so far is to clear the HPI suspension, I need non-beadlock wheels...or beadlocks with a ton of offset (but that's what I was trying to avoid) so for now I moved over the entire assembly to my FJ. It also widens the rear track somewhat. It is however a much better suspension set-up - more travel, better steering, adjustable toe and camber, and built in negative caster. Not to mention that with the improved geometry, the steering servo and rack don't have to work as hard. I think with a bit more fiddling, it'll be a win.... I'll post up with it's complete.
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I've got pretty much all the TA's, TB's, TLs, and DF chassis here somewhere. 
