Basic one-sided smooth, composite plate lay-up.
Here I'm making the 2-layer plate (1-6oz. carbon / 1-4oz. glass), that will be used on my 1.9's windshield, and various other detailng bits. You can add as many layers as needed, to make carbon fiber plate for any purpose. The drop-out plates on my bicycle, were made nearly the same way, except that another smooth plate went on the top, of the 24-layer 6oz. carbon cloth lay-up, that was then compressed with a big clamp. The molds for that were made from 3/4 aluminum plates.
I started with something smooth for the plate mold, such as this laminated piece of MDF.
It gets a coat of wax, then a layer of Poly Vinyl Alcohol is applied, by smearing the liquid around as the alcohol evapourates.
BASIC HAND LAY-UP PART-1 - YouTube
You can hear me blowing wind on to it, to speed the evapouration up a little. Your hand can feel the liquid thickening, as you smooth it to a nice film. It's basically like a liquid cellophane. Once dry, nothing will stick to your mold.
BASIC HAND LAY-UP PART-2 - YouTube
First apply resin to the mold's surface. I use my naked hand, because I am immune to Bog Rash, and I can feel exactly how much resin is being applied. Just enough to soak all the layers good (in this case 1-layer), and enough that the last layer goes on with out wetting, to soak up the extra resin that is in the main layer(s). With practice, perfect lay-ups can be achieved.
You'll notice the wet rag I'm constantly wiping my hands with. When the epoxy resin is first mixed, you have a small window with the freshly mixed sauce, that allows it to be water-soluble. If you wait to long, the crosslinking chemicals won't break down with water, and then you will have to use acetone to clean up with. Just washing with water doesn't do as good of a job, and the wet rag does. The wet rag just seems to pull the resin away from your skin.
BASIC HAND LAY-UP PART-3 - YouTube
I thought I mixed up enough sauce. Nope
The rest of the resin went to make sure I didn't miss any areas around the cloth's edge.
Use the metal lay-up roller, to mash-out all the trapped air, and distribute the resin evenly in the layer(s).
BASIC HAND LAY-UP PART-4 - YouTube
Drape on the last layer, and try to get it in the right spot (unlike me here trying to re-position it, without wrinkling it all up).
Use the roller agin to even out the resin, and take care of any trapped air. As for how much pressure to apply to the roller? When you have a lay-up that is thoroughly wet-out, but not overly wet (pooled resin, intead of moist-looking, satin-ish, weave evenly saturated, last layer), and has no surface bubble-pin holes on the smooth side. Not to worry if there are pinholes from air on the smooth side, it just means more filling work, if the smooth side is to be painted.
BASIC HAND LAY-UP PART-5 - YouTube
Please feel free to ask any questions.
