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Canadian RS10 My Project

Newjackle

Rock Stacker
Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Messages
58
Location
Canada MB
Canadian RS10 My Project (Toyota Hilux)

OK so i finally got my RS10 in and man was i excited:mrgreen: lol. So i have it stripped down.:shock:

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I ordered a few parts that have arrived such as all metal gears, drive pins and spur plate.
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Big Boy 540 Gear housing upgrade with new 540 Motors.
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New Super Swampers with wheels.
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New HI Torque metal gear servo.
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Tamiya Toyota Hilux body (hard Body)
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Wing eliminator kit.
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Working on custom links atm.
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Aluminum Servo Horn.
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New Spektrum DX3C Controller.
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Working on skid Plate and Chassis to Axel shock mounts and rear servo eliminated.
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Its a bit of a list but i still need a few things yet such as LIPO battery and stronger ESC with built in BEC and Lipo cutoff but i feel im off to a good start so far.
Im currently just waiting to get some marine grease so i can start reassembling this badboy.
If anyone would like to comment on anything with advice or tweak and their own mods id love to hear it. Or if you wanna tell me how bad some mods are go for it haha.

Ill update this thread with lots of pics of how i machined my pieces for mounts links etc.

One thing that im gona ask is what are some decent shocks to get since i feel the stock ones are kinda rubbish. They are good but seem to have a jerkyness on the release."thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"
 
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Traxxas big bore are a good bang for the buck from ZNO-RC.com. Used a heavier weight oil if the rebound is too harsh. my $.02
 
You have a nice collection of upgrades!!
I like it!

What's your plan? A Scale or a Crawler?
I think it's a pity to use that body on a crawler, and if you're going the scale way you should have gone with a shafty. ;-)

But you have some good stuff going there!
Keep us posted."thumbsup"
 
The plan is a scaler now and yes it is a beautiful body:)

In the future i know ill end up getting a shaft kit of some sort but for now all i could afford was this. As i noticed tho in my research tho is that you can use alot of stuff on other rigs lol so nothing will be wasted.

I promise to take lots of pics as i build it up to something fun and amazing.
 
OK more parts are in yay!!!

New axial aluminum knuckles (how can i remove the green?)
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New ESC with dig bec and lipo cutoff


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new link ends to make my new links!
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new Lipo batt and charger

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more hilux accessories
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AND A BUTTERS!!!
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So hopefully i can start getting this thing together for you guys now in the upcomin week or so. cheers!
 
Ok so i got a bit of work done and some figureing out as well haha.

So i started and finished my new links.
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I also started working on my chassis to axle shock mounting currently made my own threaded screws with a nut on each end.

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So thats where i am am currently. Like i said before im still waiting on the steel spur plate to getr here, HOPEFULLY tomorrow it will be in and i can start getting more together on this.
 
Re: Canadian RS10 My Project (Toyota Hilux)

Alright well i tinkered around for a while more and i came up with what seems to work which is useing threaded rods with nuts on the ends to accommodate the various link spacers washers shock spacers etc.

So anyways heres a few more pics to show how it turned out.
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Well i got a bit done today lots of taking apart adjusting redoing thinking redoing and more redoing.
I did a dry mock up of how its coming along so far.

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now i know it looks alot the same as factory but i ensure you i have done work lol. ive also come to the conclusion that i need to make a fabricated aluminum rectangle and bolt it to the side of the frame to accomadate my Hilux body. Also ill be able to make the shocks attach to the axle and they will be vertical in the wheel well so it will also look more scale.

Hopefull my dam steel spur will be in tomorrow and i can fineally get these axles back together. Untill further notice! cheers!
 
Okkkkkkkayy So my spur plates came in and man did i get some work done today, my fingers are sore! lol

So i started by reassembling my axles and lubing up the new metal gears in marine grease. Also installing my new Integy 35 turn brushed 540 motors. My new axial metal turn knuckles were installed as well, also greasing up the wheel bearings
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So after i did all that i realized that my wheelbase was too long to fit center of the wheel wells. So i had to take my lower links off and shorten them to fit sighhhhh. :x

After that i reassembled it again only to realize that now my top links didnt leave me enough clearance for my suspension as in it only had about a inch of travel........:evil::flipoff:

so now i took those off as well and bent them so now i can get full range and travel of my suspension. i also made a bent steering rod to allow clearance of my gearbox.

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And as you can see i also made and connected my rear lockout.

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So now im just in the process of getting someone to weld up my new aluminum rectangle to screw onto the existing frame to allow me to hook up my suspension. My electronics are in the process of being solderd up and things are moving along pretty smooth for a beginner lol

I still dont know how im gona do the hilux body but i have ALL the accessories for it so it will be a fun project in its own:)

So thats where i am at so far and it feels like alot but there is so much more to go lol.

So untill further notice! see ya around!
 
motor clearance?? Might need to relocate lower links to top of axle, and shocks too. BUT, besides my concerns, IT LOOKS F'N SWEET!!!! Nice work bro!! :)
 
Looking through this thread I was gonna ask if you've tried to mock up the body yet. I bought a hilux body for my rs10 and the body was pretty small on the rest of it, yours looks better than mine did, though. Looks like you're running 56" tires on there lol. Looks good, can't wait to see more!
 
In response to some questions and comments;-)

Motor clearance is a non issue after i bent my upper links i have a solid 3-4 inches of travel suspension wise.

Yes the body was small for my RS10 as well since it comes stock with i think 12.5 inches axle to axle and the Hilux body is 11.5 inches to center of each wheel well. I just cut my lower and upper links by half a inch to make it work."thumbsup"

So I have been messing around with the electronics today. My ESC comes factory "water resistant' but im takin the extra care to install all the electronics in my plastic servo box.

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So thats where im at to this day. Im still waiting to get ahold of someone to help me mock up a bolt on frame to support my suspension and body. But other then that things are moving along.

Hopefully i can start detailing and painting my body soon (when i can decide what color to do it:lmao:) and get all the parts on it.

So if anyone has any ideas for it feel free to tell me haha, till then! see ya soon!
 
So if anyone has any ideas for it feel free to tell me haha, till then! see ya soon!

Respectfully, I just thought I'd mention that you are running your axles clocked to the wrong direction. Out of the box they had a 0 degree caster, meaning the top pivot was directly above the lower pivot. Ideally you want the upper to be back towards the chassis to increase your steering abilities. It will actually help clear your links at full lock a little. But even more important, it makes it handle so much better.

I made my own links at first as well, and clocked my axle like yours for motor clearance. First thing I noticed is it didn't react well while turning downhill or sidehilling at all. It also raised the heaviest part of your rig (x2 motors) raising your center of gravity. I flopped it on my test course over and over before I finally shortened my uppers to fix it all.

I'm not another RS hater, just want to help another crawler in their quest for fun.
 
Respectfully, I just thought I'd mention that you are running your axles clocked to the wrong direction. Out of the box they had a 0 degree caster, meaning the top pivot was directly above the lower pivot. Ideally you want the upper to be back towards the chassis to increase your steering abilities. It will actually help clear your links at full lock a little. But even more important, it makes it handle so much better.

I made my own links at first as well, and clocked my axle like yours for motor clearance. First thing I noticed is it didn't react well while turning downhill or sidehilling at all. It also raised the heaviest part of your rig (x2 motors) raising your center of gravity. I flopped it on my test course over and over before I finally shortened my uppers to fix it all.

I'm not another RS hater, just want to help another crawler in their quest for fun.

Ya i know they are lol, only reason is to clear the lower links. Tho i may just have to run straight links in the front(really dont want to tho since im big on symmetry)
 
I'm with Sydwall85 here. The multiple advantages of clocking the axles inward are huge. I first got the idea when I started studying up the berg and axial forums to see what my cat was missing. All the bergs do it to lower their motors, and all the axials (even the shafties) clock their C-hubs on the steering knuckles to get those incredible steering advantages. Ours are fixed, so, we just turn the whole axle.

As far as symetry is concerned, don't let it interfere with performance. Even in a scaler. You could even do the popular 'S' curve front and back if you prefered. My rig is totally different being a comp setup, so my front end is low, and my rear links are super high for clearance. My skid plate is angled from 2 1/4" to 3 1/2" ground clearance.
 
Ok so i took your advice and bent my links into a "S" tho im not too happy with them atm but they are fairly decent untill i can make some more accurate ones.

It made it so my axles are at about 0 degrees to maybe -5ish Degrees its the best i can get them atm.

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I also picked up some Plasti Dip finally for my battery and Servo.

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