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Burnt up TWO savox 2270's. Am I the only one?

Drewhammer, for the 130 he spent he shoulda spent another 20 and got the hitec, BUT if he has other issues causing this problem, we would be reading about Hitecs getting burnt up.
 
So far only one. I haven't properly diagnosed this issue 2nd yet. When the servo died last night, it was all I could do to stop myself from putting the whole rig under the wheels of my 1:1 as I drove away. Frustrated would be an understatement. I'll be heading back to the LHS tomorrow and see what I can get figured out.
 
Somehow I doubt a 7950 would have given me any issues from the get go. I prefer to support local businesses and they stocked the savox. This way they can help me get this dealt with.
 
Depends, if you have 2 grounds fighting each other they may not have held up either. See if you can give both Savox servos back in exchange for the 7950. It's worth a try.
 
Grounds don't fight each other. They're only a path back to source voltage. The entire system from battery, to motor, to BEC, to servo, and Rx has been properly fluxed, soldered, braided wire covered, and dual layer heat shrunk. I assure you there are no bad grounds, or connections anywhere on this rig.
 
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Here's what I got back from Savox. I'm glad they went out of their way to even OFFER me a crash replacement, or to look at it, or something.
 
Awesome! (Not for you) (sorry)..

This and this alone is why I run Hitec!

Cut wires, soldered wires, shortened wires with new crimp on's.. Hitec will replace the board or motor!

Not waterproof but had been wet, covered in mud, over heated.. Hitec will cover it!

The only thing Hitec doesn't cover for the life of the servo, is the case an gears.. I believe.. But I bet if a bearing blew up and the bearings ruined the teeth, they would help out and get it back to you..

No need to even contact them, no need for a receipt, and I have yet to pay anything more then to ship to them! Throw the servo or 2 in a shipping envelope and ship it to them.. (I like throwing a index card with my name, email, and phone number on it, in the package).. 2 weeks or so late.. Bam! Working servo returned in the mail!!

That's why the Cheapest servo on the market is a Hitec!

The last 2 I sent in, (1x 7950 & 1x 7980), they refurbished the 80 and actually sent me back a NIP 50!
 
You sir, have me sold. I'll post up the next email I got too. What a bunch of losers. Told me that they won't do ANYTHING for me, but said they stand behind their products. Yeah. And OJ's innocent....
 
Drewhammer, for the 130 he spent he shoulda spent another 20 and got the hitec, BUT if he has other issues causing this problem, we would be reading about Hitecs getting burnt up.

Which is why I asked him to clarify if he had burnt up just one or two BEC's. If he had lost two BEC's that would indicate that for whatever reason he may be drawing too much current on the output of the BEC, but since only one burnt up I wouldn't bet on there being a short. Also, the terminology and explanation of how he put it together should be a good indication that he's more than competent enough to wire up his truck properly.

You sir, have me sold. I'll post up the next email I got too. What a bunch of losers. Told me that they won't do ANYTHING for me, but said they stand behind their products. Yeah. And OJ's innocent....


You'll be happy you did. Hitec is the only servo I buy now. I've used futaba, savox and obviously hitec in the past. I won't buy anything other than Hitec now. In my 20 years of RC's I have NEVER had a hitec fail. I've never stripped gears, burn up a board, burnt up a motor or had any other failure that wasn't a direct result of my actions (crashing). I've always heard they have superb customer service however if you choose your servos right, you'll never find out.
 
Well, I figured I'd post this up, just to let anyone else who is curious about savox customer service, and how this is all playing out.

Here are a couple body off shots of my wraith. (The ESC holder isn't quite done yet, I'm going to make it look like a fuel cell when it's done, I also have a tonneau cover that needs some sanding which is really hard to do while on the road... Or hard to justify hand sanding when there's a nice disc/belt sander in my garage...) This is what I meant when I said that my soldering/craftsmanship wasn't the issue.

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And here is a "copy and paste" of my conversation with savox, if anyone is interested. I said if they didn't want to help I was going to post it all over the forums, and as they've stopped replying to me I intend to uphold what I said. The first is at the bottom, and the last is just below this. If they reply to my last email, I'll post that up too, but seeing as they've stopped replying to me, I don't feel it's necessary to post that email.

Kyle,

Yes cutting the wire lead off is considered a modification, because the product is no longer as purchased means it has been modified. As such the warranty policy states any modification of any kind to the product is void of warranty.

We stand behind our products we distribute proudly thank you. These are the terms we uphold as a distributor and you agreed to when you purchased this product.

Joel

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 10:11 AM, "Kyle" wrote:
So you won't stand behind your product at all, because the leads are shorter than what I purchased them at?

Good to know. I'll promptly be changing anything with your name on it to another brand that will stand behind their products. I'll make sure a copy of this email makes it to the forums I'm on as well. Thank you



On Aug 29, 2014, at 8:31 AM, Savox USA Support <customerservice@savoxusa.com> wrote:

Yeah unfortunately the wires does void you of warranty services. Sorry about that. You should have left the wires intact.

In case you are not aware companies like TQ Racing offers servo wire lead sets that are a bunch cheaper than 120$ to make custom lead projects, Here's a link to some of those lead sets I am referring to.

http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/SearchResul...



On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 6:16 PM, "Kyle" wrote:
Hello,

I've recently purchased a 2270 servo for my rock crawler. I was looking for the most torque available from a servo under $150, and your product seemed to fit the bill. I installed it into my axial w raith, along with a dedicated castle creations 7.4v BEC powe r source. I only ran it for a few minutes, and noticed the steering stopped working, then I saw a puff of smoke come out from the front end of my crawler.

The case ended up getting so hot that it melted and shorted the power/ground wires just outside the case, and further diagnosis into it, it fried my BEC as well. I did cut what was left good of the wires off, to use on another crawler project I'm working on, and I ended up replacing the servo with another 2270, and another CC BEC, and everything works good now, but I'm out a $120 servo. Can you guys help me out at all, or am I stuck without any help because I cut off the wires?
 
Sounds like they stand behind it alright!!

What happens if a ear breaks off!? Voids the "warranty".... Baahahahaha...

Has ANYONE EVER HAD ANYTHING STOOD BEHIND BY SAVOX???
 
Actually yes, I was racing with a buddy Monday and he has had 2 of the silver aluminum savox servos fail and were both replaced under warranty. It took some bitching but he got them swapped out. Then both of the new ones failed at the track monday in a 1/8 ebuggy and 1/8 etruggy. I tried a solar D772 in my mugen truggy and it lasted 3 laps...dead...

And just you so you know I don't hate on hitec I ordered 2 of the HS 7954sh HV servos off ebay. $80 shipped new. One for my Tekno ebuggy and one for my mugen etruggy. For my crawlers, the Savox 1230 and 1231's are staying as they are the most powerful and perfect crawler servos ever created. :flipoff:
 
I just have to add my $.02 since I've run Futaba, Hitec, and Savox servos over the years. This is long, but hopefully insightful.

I'm hard on my equipment when driving it, but meticulous in maintaining it when done for the day, so that definitely factors into my servo-killing history. I also refuse to run a BEC since I have killed a few 10A Castle BEC's and a Novak BEC. Instead I stick to 2s power (which helps keep the truck together when continuously being abusive) and wire the servo positive and negative directly to the ESC battery power wires. I even do this on Hitec 645's and Futaba S3305, which are NOT rated for 2s power without any issues, other than the 645 is now strong enough to strip the gears.

I first put my Wraith kit together almost 3 years ago with a Hitec 7954 (a servo which I have had good luck with in 1.9 scalers, and a 2.2 sportsman rig with a BTA) figuring it would last since it was rated at over 400oz/in for only $80. Well, it was strong, and lightening fast, but it couldn't take the shock loads of snow wheeling with an AL servo horn. I stripped the gears out of it within a pack doing small jumps landing in soft powder. Then managed to electrically kill (no response), and strip the gears out of two more NIB 7954's, also within a pack each.

I sent the 3 7954's, and 2 other 645's in to Hitec and since I had waterproofed them by filling them with dielectric grease, they were denied warranty repair. They then offered to replace them with new units for slightly more than I had just paid for the servos. That wasn't going to work for me. In retrospect, I should have just kept them for parts/servo winch donors.

So I feel your pain spending far too much money on servos in very little drive time... but it gets better...

I then purchased a Savox 2270 since Savox was running a deal and I picked it up for $75 and thought it was a good deal. Well, first off it refused to work right with my Novak Havoc 3s speed controller. Would not respond when using the throttle.
Tried everything under the sun, then finally swapped in a Mamba Max pro and it finally worked properly. Weird, unexplainable, but I swear to god true.

It was an OK performer, definitely less holding power than the 7954, and slower response under load.

It always ran hot, right from the first pack. I couldn't finish a 5000mah pack in the rocks without smelling burnt electronics. One time I even got a blister on a finger when I foolishly checked the temp on it's AL portion of case. Since I was starting to hate it, I just kept running it. Lasted an entire summer that way. Level of performance never seemed to change. Anytime I crawled with someone else they'd ask "whats that burning smell" after a half hour or so.

Then winter came back around, the brushless snow-bashing motor went back in and the jumps got bigger and icier. After only a couple backs of snow bashing I landed hard on one front tire and the smoke finally rolled out of that 2270. Wish I took a picture of it before sending it to Savox (who didn't warranty it because I cut/soldered the input leads), cause both of the plastic portions of the case where cracked and the input wires where almost completely melted off.

Wraith sat out the winter since I couldn't afford to keep throwing servos at it. Saved up my dough and picked up a Hitec 7980 for $150. Best decision ever, would have saved me so much money in the long run.

I had to make a home-made servo mount for it, and do clearancing to to front framerails of my Wraith to keep full uptravel, but the end result is so worth it.

Its almost unstoppable strong, but not quite as fast as the 7954. If I bind the front bad enough, it'll just swing the back end around. I love it because it's been in there almost a year and a half without falter. Even smacked an ice bank, which looked like a jump, at WOT and stripped out a Robitronics horn, which I thought was near impossible! The output shaft is still tight. Even when really working it hard it barely gets warm.

I have a cheaper waterproof Savox servo that died right after being dunked with only a pack of use on it. I've called and E-mailed, and filled out their stupid "RMA" form more times than I can count. Calls are always resulting in leaving an unreturned message, and E-mails are apparently ignored as well. I'm kind of impressed you even got a response from Savox. Figured since I hadn't cut the wires, or filled it with grease it might be a warranty item for a change, but nope, that would require customer service.

So, Savox won't be getting any more of my money, and Hitec won't be getting any repair work from me, but will still be taking my money every time I get a new truck.
 
Actually I had that no steering on throttle issue for a while too. The remedy to the problem was to add a ground going from the - on the servo to the - on the rx. But I'm glad to hear your problems got solved. I bought a 7950 for the TF2 I have on the way, and I think 7980 is what I'll throw in the wraith. I'm just sick of spending money and having a not working crawler.
 
I've been using dielectric grease quite liberally for years on mud trucks, and actually read about using it on R/C electronics right hear on RCC many years ago.

It works mint for waterproofing. Since the case is full of grease, no water can get it.

Only issue is on some servos the gears fit together so tightly that it slows the servo down and increases operating temp. In cases like that I clean out the dielectic and use NLGI#2 wheel bearing grease. Keeps the servo from running slow and hot, but slowly oozes out through the output shaft requiring me to clean/regrease the gearset a couple times a year to keep water from intruding the gearcase and eventually getting to the potentiometer. The 7954's didn't even slow at all with the dielectric, but a Savox 1268 and Futaba 3305 were downright sluggish.

Another nice thing about the dielectric is that IF you do have to do some soldering on the board you can clean it away with products like CRC plastic-safe electronics cleaner.
 
Only issue is on some servos the gears fit together so tightly that it slows the servo down and increases operating temp. In cases like that I clean out the dielectic and use NLGI#2 wheel bearing grease. Keeps the servo from running slow and hot, but slowly oozes out through the output shaft requiring me to clean/regrease the gearset a couple times a year to keep water from intruding the gearcase and eventually getting to the potentiometer. The 7954's didn't even slow at all with the dielectric, but a Savox 1268 and Futaba 3305 were downright sluggish

That was my first thought, which is why I asked. I didn't think it would be a good idea to pack it full of grease of any kind. I use an almost totally different method to waterproof servos.
 
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