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Black Three: The Bear Necessity

Paint done. Well, apart from the touching up due to a couple of masking errors on my part.


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A little bit more progress.

started with the axial Yeti sway bar kit I picked up from asiatees in the sale. Grabbed a metal coat hanger (thanks poohsad).


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Mounted the winch I ordered (cable ties only at present - should be enough anyway) and remouted the front light bar.

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Sway bars mounted and mocked up the rear again, still work to be done - hoses, fuel filler, fans and the light bar to rewire (outside will be red middle blue/orange flashing possible linked with siren operated via extra channel on the ESS module).

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And the wheels for my trailer project turned up.

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Progress continues at its sllooowwww pace.

I did some finish up work on the rear. its not brilliant but I'm happy with it for now.

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For anyone interested the "air filter" is a tipex bottle, an ikea mirror holder a short piece of black coaxial and some cable ties. the fuel pipe is coaxial again attached to a butchered 3.5mm right angle head phone jack with a couple of brass rings from a damaged servo. Fuel pipes are a couple of PC crews and risers with some thick copper wire. :)

I was starting to look at the electronics and realised I wasn't going to get everything in under the hood without cramming it all in and running the risk of overheating due to total lack of air flow. So I decided to make the GOM a single seater with a little box that fits in the cab for the electronics in particular the receiver and light controllers. I started to assemble using plasticard and some mesh. The lid will lift off for access. Only the ESC and motor and winch controller will be upfront

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The dual shocks with piggybacks thing isn't going to work with the shocks I bought (as previously mentioned) so gonna go with the stock ones for now and try and get this thing running in the next couple of weeks.
 
Looking good.

I hate to even mention this seeing as you've made an awesome little electronics box already but If you plan on using a shorty battery there ends up being extra space at the far end of the battery tray. Thats where I've put my receiver and bundle of wires, lol

The trailer looks nice too, looks like it will be fairly lightweight which is a good thing. I made one around that size and it ended up weighing in at around 10 lbs.

Oh and where is that driver from?
 
Looking good.

I hate to even mention this seeing as you've made an awesome little electronics box already but If you plan on using a shorty battery there ends up being extra space at the far end of the battery tray. Thats where I've put my receiver and bundle of wires, lol

The trailer looks nice too, looks like it will be fairly lightweight which is a good thing. I made one around that size and it ended up weighing in at around 10 lbs.

Oh and where is that driver from?


I noticed you and others doing that and looked into it but decided from an accessibility perspective this might be a better approach and something about the single seat thing in ultra 4 cars got me and given all my others are multi-seat. I dunno, just one of the things - you guys know :)


trailers on hold for a bit whilst I figure out axles - got some bolts to mount to the side but its just too damned ugly a solution for me :)


I tend to use Star Wars black series figures (6") for my builds - being a fan and all :) I'm not set on Han as the driver yet. I really like the way Poe Dameron in the Xwing pilot outfit works in my EXO rebuild (with bb-8 of course) - its the orange of the outfit - again you know how it is sometimes when you just think - you know what, it should look like this.

Or is that just me? :)
 
With my Trailer I used Axial Wraith dogbone ends with a mishmash of bearings I had. One small bearing was pressed into another so that the outer most bearing stack is the same diameter as the inner most bearing. I then used some stainless metric tubing with the same inner diameter as the bearings outer diameter (which was quite a challenge to find in the states) to house this assembly.

I welded these metric ends onto a skinnier bit of tubing so I could fit U bolts around the axle for the Leafs. Then I very carefully applied CA (super glue) with a tooth pick to the outer edge of the bearing to hold it in place in this tubing, they're pressed in pretty tight but I needed something to prevent it from loosening.

GP82Fh0l.jpg
 
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Its been a while.

I got really disillusioned after frying my ESS one and switch to doing something with My Yeti - see here The Shape of Things to Come: "Black Four"

Anyway I figured having had this for a year and still not finishing I better get it done before I start my next project :) So I did a bit more work, redid some of the accessories, new 3D printed fuel cell courtesy of " G_Factory" and I did another 3D print, a GMADE GOM Motor Cover, designed by "rockracerc".

I hacked a chunk out of the middle of Chewie to make him fit. Of yeah, and cut his feet off like some sick drug cartel like scene.

Had to hijack the Gmade shocks off my wraith as one of the shock caps is split - me and my fat fingers. Will get some replacement caps

I fitted a Flysky FS-BS6 Receiver to go along with my new FS-GT5 Transmitter (which I recommend) and use for all my rigs now.

Transmission is on CH4 (3 position switch on the transmitter grip)
Front lights, dash light and rear lights are on CH3 (2 position switch on the transmitter grip)
Roof lights are on channel 6 (dial on top of transmitter)
I plan on adding a winch on CH5 at some point soon. That can wait for next asiatees order.

Added a couple GT power switches, one runs the front light, the dash lights, and the rear lights (2 x red solid, orange and blue flashing) that run on channel 3.

Not run in anger yet but transmission switching looks all good.

Anyway enough waffling. here are the pictures and a link to a short video.

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Video
 
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So this happened on the very first run out....

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So I decided I wanted to tighten up the front end and I also noticed a lot of play in the hubs/wheels, etc.

So bought some 8mm (6mm internal) steel capillary tube and got the grinder out. Ignore the dimensions written on the paper as that was prior to fitting and some tweaking was needed. The proper dimension are:

short side - 53mm with groove centred at 29mm (from the left end)
long side - 96mm with groove cantered at 64mm (from the left end)

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I fitted some shims and rubber rings to the wheel axle shafts to limit play. Front end is a lot more solid now.

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Also got an ESS one dual to fit. Then its back out into the wilds for some photos and videos - when I get some time in the daylight hours anyway :)
 
Almost there now. Fitted dual shocks using a set of team raffee 110mm with a changed 3mm longer end, 20wt oil, top hard spring, bottom soft spring. coupled with stock shocks and oil

Out for a spin and a photo shoot this weekend hopefully. :)

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How'd you break the front axle? Is your weather cold right now? I have the CVD's on mine as well, but I also bought some Axial Universals and will try the modded Axial Universals that someone else on here did when I have time.
 
How'd you break the front axle? Is your weather cold right now? I have the CVD's on mine as well, but I also bought some Axial Universals and will try the modded Axial Universals that someone else on here did when I have time.

Unless I missed something whilst driving (which I'm pretty sure I didn't) that just down to one jump where the gom came no more than 8 inches with a perfect down slope landing, no funny angles or anything. The temp has dropped here but it was still a few degrees above freezing.

I think the issue is the length of the overlap between the hub and the axle, the fact that its thin plastic, and it has those grub screws through it to hold the hub on. I'm toying with the idea of putting some epoxy in the small gap around the outside of my home made beef tubes between them and the inside of the axle housing. Hope that makes sense?
 
Hi, I wanna start by saying awesome work! I have a question about the Team Raffee double spring shocks. How are the spring rates of the included springs. I know they come with soft, medium, and firm. Also how well did they hold up to use. I know this is an old thread, but figured I'd ask anyways. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
 
For reference I plan on using them for an SCX10II with a Yota hardbody I'm currently building. Thanks again.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
 
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