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balko's K5 Ascender

balko

Newbie
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
17
Location
Norway
Bought this in mars, but haven't had the time to work on it until the last weeks.

The build was pretty straight forward. Some good solutions prior to scx10s. The frame is a lot stiffer, and the steering angle is way better than stock scx.

The K5 is long and wide. The body is huge, and gets hung up in a lot of things. My G6 scx10 is a lot better in thight corners.

The Ascender is better at climbing up, and seems to get more traction, to get those front tires to attach and get up som pretty steep and hard climbs.
It almost feels like it has more spin in the front wheels, it doesn't flip up so much as the scx10.

The panhard is cool and work well here I think.

I like the metallic blue and silver colour, so I went with that. The paint job went ok, but not as good as I was hoping. Tried to paint the window walls with a silverpaint pen. I have troubles with paint not sticking to the lexan. Used lexan paint.. not shure what happend..

I tried with some wheels from Asiatees, but I got to much bodyrub, so I had to change it to som Axial 8 holes and 1.9 flat irons. I bit to small, but it really climbs great.
The torque twist is huge, so I tried to tighten the back dampers 3/4 of full, and it was a lot better. Drilled up the holes in the shock piston, wich smotthen things up a bit.

I run a 35 turn motor on 3s and with the 1060 esc. Works great. Not as fast as my scx10 with 35 turn, but slow and steady.

The sidehill is a challenge. I thin I have to lower it a bit.
All in all, I'm really imprest with this thing. Can do some lines with this, that I just can't do with my scx10s.

Plans for the future is to get a front mount engine, and fit the yello Jeep hardbody I boght from Asiatees.

Think that has to be a winter project..

Edit: I have some complains about the steering rod. Where the servo rod is connected to the steering rod, the plastic there seem to bend pretty easily. Anyone else noticed that?
Also when I have max steering angle, there seem to be a slight hangup.
I also noticed that the lower links are a bit soft. I bendt them on the first run. Is is just mine, or do others have the same experience?

Here is a few images of the rig.

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/pkJDe"><a href="//imgur.com/a/pkJDe">Ascender K5</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Congrats on your new crawler and thanks for the pics! Mount your steering servo the other way for the long wheelbase (Blazer), it should work better. I've not had any problems with the stock RTR plastic servo horn yet...I thought it would strip out fast, but not yet and I've been putting this truck through the wringer. :) Body and paint look good from here, it will get scraped up anyways and you can paint it on the outside a different color if you still don't like the way it turned out.

Try some different hubs for those wheels to narrow track width so the tires don't rub the body, I don't know what bolt pattern Asiatees beadlocks are. Hot Racing and RC4WD 1.9 steel beadlocks are very close, just a touch up with little drill bit and they will interchange hubs. VP hubs bolt circle is larger and doesn't interchange with HR or RC4WD. LockedUpRC and the SLW version of Motoworx wheels both use VP hubs. Buy a couple different hub widths and you should be able to get something to work well.

GCM front motor setup is sweet and will work great with your Jeep hardbody, I'm looking forward to seeing what you do. :) Side-hilling is affected by battery and battery placement, I can't quite see what you've done there, but shorty 2s and 3s packs in stock battery tray have been working good for me.

EDIT: And welcome to RCC! :)
 
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Thanks for the answer and tips!

I see that in the pic, the servo is the other way, but I changed it after a test drive in the yard, because the servo horn conflicted with the steering rod. It's mounted sideways now. Also bought a more powerful servo.

I tried the hubs for my Scx, but they gave a little slope, so had to put the originals back on. I will definitely try getting some other hubs!

I saw the GCM front motor setup, but it's a bit pricey.. I really like the Jeep tho.. and it will not mount with the motor in the middle, so something must be moved...

Right now, I have the battery sideways, had to cut a bit of the batter tray, but the new battery arrived today, so hopefully it will fit in the tray.

If I get the time, I will take it out for a drive today, pics will come!
 
Time for some updates!

FInally got the GCM front motor mount. The guys at GCM shipped it of real quick. It was in my mail box under a week after I ordered it.
Mounted it up, and it fitted well. Good quality on the alum. One of the shaft seem to be a bit short now, but the wheelbase is gong to Get smaller, so hopefully it will be ok.

The Jeep hardbody will need some fitting. The shocks are way to tall, so I need to mount smaller shocks in the frame. Maybe borrow my sons mini inferno shocks..

Wanted to attach some pics, but could not Get it up from my iPad. Anybody knows how to so that?

Will be adding pics when i get back home.
 
Let's see if I can get some pics up..

Link:
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Next to do is shorten the wheelbase, and get the body as low as possible.
Mount LEDs and figure out where to put battery(s).

Since I don't have the Dinky RC cantilever shock mount, I have to mount a smaller shock in the frame...
 
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Well. Did a bit more on the Jeep Wrangler Hardbody Ascender.

I shortened the whellbase. The shortest on the Ascender frame is 278, and the Jeep is 275, maybe even a bit shorter. So I had to mount shorter rod ends for the lower back links. Probably need to do this to the upper back as well.

With the motor up front, I have a problem with the front driveshaft hitting the motor/drive case. Need to look into this..

I thought the original shock were a bit high, so I tried the Traxxas Big Bore shoks, but the problem with the driveshaft hitting the case was even beigger now.. So need to change them again.. Really like the Bigbore shocks as thew are firmer than the Vaterra shock.

Another problem is the buildt in front bumper. Probably need to dremel a bit of the lower part of it, as it is hitting the panhard link/servo horn.
Need to do something about the servo horn as well. It it to big.

I will keep adding pics along the way. There is alot more to be done.. LEDs an winch. But first I need to figure out what to do with the driveshaft hitting the motor/gearbox.

Adding some pics..

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Adding some pics of the 1:1 (CJ7)for inspiration as well :)

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Looks good, you could also shorten chassis more and drill new holes as needed to attach to center skidplate.
 
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