Axial Wraith slipper clutch adjustment

[fyrstormer]

...is a huge pain in the butt, I'm sure you've noticed. The slipper clutch is buried inside the transmission tunnel, and there's suspension linkages, a driveshaft, a servo, and the bottom edge of the receiver box all conspiring to make it impossible to reach without dropping the transmission. Since the slipper clutch needs to be adjusted periodically as the pads wear down and the motor ages, and occasionally needs to be loosened and re-tightened to break it loose after it gets stuck together -- and since you can't test the new setting without the transmission being bolted in-place again ---the positioning of the slipper clutch makes for a very irritating time about once every week or two, if you use your Wraith on a regular basis.

However, I just realized that one of the wrenches that came with my Traxxas Summit solves this problem, allowing me to quickly adjust the slipper clutch in small increments without having to drop the transmission first:

The wrench is Traxxas part 3980, and it costs two dollars: https://traxxas.com/products/parts/3980

It's cast aluminum, so it's not very strong (e.g. don't use it on wheel nuts), but it works great for this job. So much easier now.

 

[RealDeal]

Nice tip, but this is so much easier"thumbsup"

Slipper Eliminator Kit - AX10 SCX10 Wraith

 

[Eric0424]

If you're running lockers or spools in both axles you can just rotate one of the tires to tighten/loosen the slipper nut using the glow plug wrench.

 

[fyrstormer]

Nice tip, but this is so much easier"thumbsup"

Slipper Eliminator Kit - AX10 SCX10 Wraith

Why would I get rid of the slipper clutch? It's there to make sure the motor doesn't stall when the wheels get stuck. That's just asking for trouble.

Also, that part costs 10x as much as the wrench I posted.

If you're running lockers or spools in both axles you can just rotate one of the tires to tighten/loosen the slipper nut using the glow plug wrench.

It's still very difficult to get a normal four-sided wrench into that spot, and anyway adjusting the slipper clutch by turning the wheels isn't precise enough. Yes, I did hold the drivetrain still by holding one of the wheels, but because I used the wrench I posted to turn the slipper clutch nut, I was able to get a much finer adjustment, so it's just on the safe side of stalling the motor at full throttle.

 

[new2rocks]

Another option is to use 4 screws instead of 8 to hold the skid plate in place (the outermost 2 on each side, which is plenty strong). With only 4 screws to remove, it doesn't take long at all to drop the skid, allowing plenty of access to adjust the slipper.

 

[Eric0424]

I was referring to the Traxxas #3980 glow plug wrench you linked above, but rotating the tires while holding the slipper nut to make minor/finer adjustments would take a little practice.

 

[fyrstormer]

Another option is to use 4 screws instead of 8 to hold the skid plate in place (the outermost 2 on each side, which is plenty strong). With only 4 screws to remove, it doesn't take long at all to drop the skid, allowing plenty of access to adjust the slipper.

That's what I used to do while testing slipper clutch settings, but this is even easier than removing 4 screws. I don't have to remove any screws at all, and because I don't have to drop the transmission at all, I don't have to fit the wires for the motor, cooling fan, and shift-servo back into just the right place so nothing gets pinched.

 

[SDheavymetal]

You don't need a slipper. I installed a slipper eliminator on my wraith then was able to install the battery back a little and much lower.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-wraith/523938-sdheavymetals-wraith.html

 

[fyrstormer]

I don't need seatbelts either, as long as I don't get in a car accident.

The point of this thread is not to debate whether a slipper clutch is useful, but to inform people who have slipper clutches on their Wraiths of an easy way to adjust them without having to disassemble anything.

 

[SouthernComfort]

I know most here keep it and so was I but with the insides removed I have full access to it. Slip a flat wrench in from the windshield area to adjust. Keep check on temps.
But it also lets sticks and flying dirt in..

 

[maslin]

I cut a hole in the cover to clear a 550 motor and a hole to set the slipper. Had all kinds of problems with sticks and crap getting stuck in the gears.

Then I threw the cover in the trash and never had another problem.



I adjust my slipper until the nut stops. Never had an issue.

 

[SDheavymetal]

I don't need seatbelts either, as long as I don't get in a car accident.

The point of this thread is not to debate whether a slipper clutch is useful, but to inform people who have slipper clutches on their Wraiths of an easy way to adjust them without having to disassemble anything.

That is a great way to tighten up your slipper clutch.

If you slipper slips too much it will heat up the clutch nut and ruin the clutch nut. I didn't replace the nut and it just kept coming loose. So I would recommend you replace the nut if it comes loose a couple of times. Have fun with your Wraith thats what its all about!

 

[Eric0424]

That is a great way to tighten up your slipper clutch.

If you slipper slips too much it will heat up the clutch nut and ruin the clutch nut. I didn't replace the nut and it just kept coming loose. So I would recommend you replace the nut if it comes loose a couple of times. Have fun with your Wraith thats what its all about!

Nylon locknuts should be replaced as soon as you notice they're no longer gripping tightly to the threads. Waiting for them to loosen is why a lot of people ruin slipper components, spur gears, wheels, 12mm hex adapters or any other part that may fall off while driving.

 

[fyrstormer]

I adjust my slipper until the nut stops. Never had an issue.

On my go-fast vehicles, I adjust the slipper clutch until the vehicle can just manage to pop a wheelie. On my crawlers, I adjust the slipper clutch until the motor can just barely manage to spin the slipper clutch at full throttle while I'm pinning the vehicle to the ground. That way the slipper clutch can actually do its job of limiting the maximum driveline torque to a safe level, instead of being locked.

 

[new2rocks]

I'm still a bit puzzled as to why you're needing to adjust your slipper every week or two (and not meaning that as a criticism). For reference, my Wraith and SCX-10 both run ROC 412 3100kvs on 3s with RRP slippers, often at the hands of a 5 year-old that is only just learning to feather the throttle. Granted, we're not quite pulling weeds with them, but these rigs get run hard. I haven't yet needed to adjust the slipper on either one after 50+ hours of runtime on each. I looked at your thread and know you've done a lot to your rig. Out of curiosity, are you still running the stock slipper?

 

[YourElder]

Well I'm glad to hear you've had good luck with your rrp slipper/spur new2rocks. I just got my pro4 this week, waterproofed lastnight as well as my mmp, just waiting for my rrp slipper to arrive now. Beefy top shaft, steel tranny gears, MIP driveshafts, should be good to go!

 

[DeviledEggs]

Grave Digger?

 

[fyrstormer]

I'm still a bit puzzled as to why you're needing to adjust your slipper every week or two (and not meaning that as a criticism). For reference, my Wraith and SCX-10 both run ROC 412 3100kvs on 3s with RRP slippers, often at the hands of a 5 year-old that is only just learning to feather the throttle. Granted, we're not quite pulling weeds with them, but these rigs get run hard. I haven't yet needed to adjust the slipper on either one after 50+ hours of runtime on each. I looked at your thread and know you've done a lot to your rig. Out of curiosity, are you still running the stock slipper?

Actually I haven't had to adjust the slipper clutch in about a year. I guess the slipper pad finally wore-in enough that it's contacting fully. They're never perfectly flat from the factory. If it were a composite pad like Robinson or Traxxas use, I could've sanded it flat, but the RC4WD AX2 transmission uses a fiber pad that's embedded with some sort of slightly-sticky red stuff -- no way to sand it flat without ripping it to shreds, it just has to rub against the pressure plate until it wears down flat. If/when I have to replace that pad, I'll probably use the ceramic pads used for the HPI Savage; they're the best adhesive-backed fiber pads I've ever used.

I thought about getting the Robinson slipper clutch, but I don't want to run a steel spur gear, so that's not an option for me.

 

[Jimsredrunner]

Thanks. Very helpful.