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Axial SCX10 Unimog build.

Downfall

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
207
Location
San Diego
So, I am currently building a Defender 90 on an Axial frame, build in 1.9 scale rigs also.

Well anyways, since I upgraded the defender to all after market aluminum parts and heavy duty frame, I had enough axial parts to build a second truck.

I am not 100% sure which way I am going with the Defender 90 atm so this should be a nice distraction.

I got a unimog body and some portal axles to build it up.

So, here is how it sits now. I cut the cab off of the bed as I only need the cab for this build. I am also going to remove the roof, extend it for a four door open top fun crawler.

I shortened the frame in the rear, but am thinking of shortening it again in the rear by about an inch so that the frame rails end up just behind the shock towers.

Anyways, this is the humble beginnings, any thoughts, suggestions, comments, are appreciated.
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Alright, cab cut up. Started with the floor and added side walls. Will need to cut doors later, I could make them open but not really going for that much detail as I will be able to put figures in through top. But who knows, maybe will do opening doors for shats and giggles.
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And here is the beginnings for real, yeah. The front of the cab is attached, all down hill from here, lol.
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Got a little more done once glue dried. I like this stance. Gives me room on each side of cab for gas tanks, spare tire, gas can, tool boxes, etc. A lot of options for sure. Trans and motor will be out of sight.

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And here are the holes needed to fit front suspension shocks / towers and the trans. I am in the process of boxing then in, then I will figure out the interior layout and a way to blend the "boxes" in. And that is a wrap, movie time.
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Ok, trans boxed in, fab motor mounted so you can see bottom clearance. All level, whoohoo.
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So, today I finished boxing in the front shock towers. Best I could while being unobtrusive. Figures legs bend over hump no problem.

Then, drew up the outside cab frame with door cutouts. I cut out doors, will slightly downsize them so when I glue doors in, there will be the door crack line like when you shut a real door. I will also do another frame for inside the cab so it looks like the door is shut from the inside also.

Started the dash while everything is drying.

And, a shameless plug in* just bought a wet/dry shop vac for $25.00 at Walmart. Best twenty-five dollars spent. Comes with wall hanger. My small work area is finally easy to clean.

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Ok, so doors on, and door frame inside/out on. Need to do some sanding and more putty work to blend in.
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So here is my solution to curved rear cab wall. First I created the walls with three layers of .040 styrene leaving the middle wall shorter than the inside/outside walls so a notch is there to insert first curved wall.

*insert: I used .20 styrene for the curve. It is easier to bend. I used two pieces for each curve glued together. So x2 .020 pieces together make the thickness .040 perfect fit for the notches. Plus, two pieces curved then CA glued together make for a strong curved section that cannot bend back.

I also used x2 pieces of .020 styrene on outside and inside of curve just matched up to the .040 walls.

*added these two paragraphs to explain the process better.*

I will then build upon the curve adding pieces until all walls are the same thickness. This should add strength to overall design.
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Ok, so the rear cab wall and corners are done. Sanded to general shape. Need to apply just a little more putty and re-sand.
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Ok, so not much done today. Switched the Axial SCX10 II rock slider mount plates from my D90 build to the unimog. This will give me better options to mount electronics, and does not require any body mods while at the same time being able to blend in like it is a part of the build.

It will also give me areas to mount scale accessories like I have seen on 1:1 unimogs.

Example:
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Oops, forgot. Did get a little more work done on dash. I shaped to general profile.
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Ok, puttied up the front cab where it connects to body and will blend it in once dry.

I also started to box in the foot wells where your legs go on a 1:1 unimog.


Now need to wait on glue/putty to dry.
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New beadlock wheels just arrived. Perfect offset, no rubbing on portals.
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Looks good! Nice to see a good old fashioned styrene build in the age of 3D printing. It's becoming a lost art!
 
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