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Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)

So bottom line guys, is this thing worth it? Was going to click buy but came here first to read. Looks like lots of smoked electronics. I wanted something I could slap a 2s in and have fun. Got plenty of other full built trucks and didnt really feel like going down that path again.
 
You have to decide if it's worth it but I can tell you that the stock electronics will not last, period. You cannot slap in a 2s without at least installing a new battery plug on the ESC but those of us that tried 2s lipo on the stock ESC had immediate failure. If you're ready to replace the ESC, servo, and install a new RX, I think it's totally worth it. 90% of us would've ended up upgrading everything in the long run anyway. Axial forced us to upgrade a little sooner than intended, like before the first pack is dead.
 
You have to decide if it's worth it but I can tell you that the stock electronics will not last, period. You cannot slap in a 2s without at least installing a new battery plug on the ESC but those of us that tried 2s lipo on the stock ESC had immediate failure. If you're ready to replace the ESC, servo, and install a new RX, I think it's totally worth it. 90% of us would've ended up upgrading everything in the long run anyway. Axial forced us to upgrade a little sooner than intended, like before the first pack is dead.
Man I think it would be a riot around the house and I already have a rx if it dies. Looks like hobbywing esc is an option. Guess I'll give it a whirl. My yeti xl is a parts w***e and breaks every time I run it. This the same way outside of the shit electronics?
 
It is alot of fun just driving around the living room climbing over the kids toys and jumping stuff. I didn't include any of that in my initial thoughts because I figured it was completely irrelevant but I guess it should at least be a footnote. I used the RTR RX/TX from my Bomber and it's a great combo for this truck. I probably bought the most expensive and definite overkill ESC for this truck and it was less than $40 shipped. My servo was less than $30 also, which means you won't exactly go broke putting in good components. Long term durability is yet to be seen but I can tell you I wasn't easy on mine earlier, hitting curbs and tumbling over rocks at full speed and she got right back up.
 
I mean built wrath with upgraded everything. Sensored brushless, dig etc, stupid truck. Full built scx10 like nothing hardly stock. Yeti xl which is a freaking blast but breaks often. And now this. Hope once the shit electronics fail it doesn't turn into a full blown custom rig, but I really hate when the damn thing breaks.
 
Really, at minimum, plan at least $60 on top of the purchase price for electronics (ESC, Servo, Receiver, Transmitter) or $30ish plus whatever a spare receiver for your existing radio costs.
You can go cheap without cheaping out. Meaning that the stuff I posted in post #423 is decent low price replacements.

Of course if you have "built" rigs for everything else, either you may have some of these parts laying around, or you are willing to spend a little more on electronics.

For me,

ESC: I am sending my Mamba Micro Pro in for a warranty swap for $45
TX: My old FlySky FS-GT3B modified
RX: I'm getting a spare flysky 3ch receiver for $8
Servo: I already had the Power HD servo, but even if I bought another one, that would be like $12
LiPo: I already have a few 2S choices and some 3S if I feel a little crazy, but those are around $10-$20 bucks if I wanted to buy some specific to this thing.
Motor: I want to thrash the stock one before throwing either the Traxxas Titan 380 or a Venom V40 Brushless in it that I have lying around (or maybe a 540 with my own custom adapter? :twisted: )

I'm in it for under $60, which I expected to spend (actually more than that) when I bought it.

Honestly, if you aren't expecting to spend ANYTHING on an RTR (any brand) when you buy it, you are setting yourself up for disappointment when something breaks.



So, anyone break anything other than the electronics?
 
yeti jr should've been a kit, i bought 3 1 didn't work out the box (transmitter) didn't want to link. 2nd one worked 5min. n servo sticks guessing striped n the transmitter went out, just blinked red. 3rd still works for now.
 
Now that I am passed the craptastic electronics, I am having a blast with this little rig. I am running it on 1300 Mah 3s with no breakage. I do have a right-rear wheel that looks a bit wobbly, like a bent axle shaft. It is just noticeable, not bad enough to warrant a tear down, yet.

I went with a Mamba Micro X. I built a little tray for the ESC to sit on with some styrene. The receiver is double-side taped to the servo. I milled and cut down servo mounts to give a flat surface for the receiver. Even though I treated the receiver board with confromal coating I want to find a different way to mount it so it won't get filled with debris.



 
Got my replacement ESC in. Took advantage of an Amain coupon and free shipping so it only ran me $35. Overkill for sure but it's small and waterproof, switchable 3amp BEC for 6v or 7.4v, good for 2s or 3s, and many other programmable features with the included card. I've wanted to try one of these new Hobbywing 1080 ESCs for a while and this was the perfect application for me. I have everything I need now to get her running except for a servo horn. I'll hit up the LHS as soon as these holidays blow over and get this thing in the dirt where it belongs instead of on my bedroom dresser.

so if the 1/10 works fine then the 1/18 should be pefect? rebuilding my sons
 
Now that I am passed the craptastic electronics, I am having a blast with this little rig. I am running it on 1300 Mah 3s with no breakage. I do have a right-rear wheel that looks a bit wobbly, like a bent axle shaft. It is just noticeable, not bad enough to warrant a tear down, yet.

I went with a Mamba Micro X. I built a little tray for the ESC to sit on with some styrene. The receiver is double-side taped to the servo. I milled and cut down servo mounts to give a flat surface for the receiver. Even though I treated the receiver board with confromal coating I want to find a different way to mount it so it won't get filled with debris.




what servo you used is it 1/10 scale? ima need 3 lol
 
I just bent a front cvd shaft. Right where it tapers down. I pulled it and tried to tap it straight, and crushed the cvd end. It needs some MIP :mrgreen:

Aside from that, I have been beating the snot out of this thing (3s only), and loving every minute of it. The added weight from upgraded Electronics really balances it out. It takes jumps better than my Short Course Truck... almost.

I figured I'd be hunting for that rear drive shaft all the time, but I haven't lost it once.

Has anyone figured out a good way to lock the diffs? I would try silly putty, but there is no real enclosure. i.e. no fluid, just grease. Epoxy?
 
Got my Mamba Micro X today! It's definitely spunky just on 2S. It sounds like the spur gear makes some pretty good noise at higher speeds, but no amount of adjusting the mesh would quiet it down, so I'm not sure what the deal is there. I did notice that the pinion had a VERY small amount of lateral movement through the rotation, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. Hasn't caused any issues or noticeable wear, though! Just a little annoying.

I'm still waiting on the stuff to actually mount everything, but I think I'm liking this temporary layout.
529631fd1eb790b3e9ae59892982d7fa.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Has anyone figured out a good way to lock the diffs? I would try silly putty, but there is no real enclosure. i.e. no fluid, just grease. Epoxy?

I'm working on a locker right now. Waiting on prototypes and testing, but more info will come soon.
Otherwise, the normal diff locking stuff won't work because the spider gears are open to the environment.

Interesting that the aluminum CVDs are going out before the plastic rear shafts. Hmm.
$33 for replacements...

One thing that sucks is that to replace a rear shaft is $28 - AX31511 - Dogbone and Center Driveline Set I could see someone coming up with a metal version for about that price... Would have been nice to have just the rear axles in a bag, rather than needing the whole parts tree.
 
Got my Mamba Micro X today! It's definitely spunky just on 2S. It sounds like the spur gear makes some pretty good noise at higher speeds, but no amount of adjusting the mesh would quiet it down, so I'm not sure what the deal is there. I did notice that the pinion had a VERY small amount of lateral movement through the rotation, so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. Hasn't caused any issues or noticeable wear, though! Just a little annoying.

I'm still waiting on the stuff to actually mount everything, but I think I'm liking this temporary layout.
529631fd1eb790b3e9ae59892982d7fa.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My experience exactly... also have the mamba micro x. There is a lot of mesh noise and a slight wobble look to the pinion. I'm willing to bet the pinion is special cut to match the stock motor. Probably why castle stated you need a losi pinion for a perfect fit.
 
I'm working on a locker right now. Waiting on prototypes and testing, but more info will come soon.
Otherwise, the normal diff locking stuff won't work because the spider gears are open to the environment.

Interesting that the aluminum CVDs are going out before the plastic rear shafts. Hmm.
$33 for replacements...

One thing that sucks is that to replace a rear shaft is $28 - AX31511 - Dogbone and Center Driveline Set I could see someone coming up with a metal version for about that price... Would have been nice to have just the rear axles in a bag, rather than needing the whole parts tree.

I'm anxious to see your locker. I'm gonna guess it's a one piece ring gear with the spider gear teath printed on it? Or are you making the ring gear and outdrives in one piece?

My jaw dropped when i saw the price of the CVDs. And i hate it when i have to pay for a bunch of parts i dont need just to get the one part i need. :evil:

This thing might just sit until the after market steps up. It was not a very hard hit that bent the shaft. I'm sure another stock shaft will wind up in the same condition. Hopefully someone will make a steel version
 
I'm trying to return mine and appear to be getting the runaround. I called the number on the receipt (877-642-9425) and was told the best they could do is have me send it in for warranty repair. When I explained the issue couldn't be resolved by replacing bad parts with bad parts, the person said I needed to call 217-366-3080. I called that number and got a recording stating they couldn't take my call and to leave a message. Is this normal? I would like to give them the opportunity to make this right before I drag them across the proverbial coals on every online forum and social media outlet I can find.
 
I'm trying to return mine and appear to be getting the runaround. I called the number on the receipt (877-642-9425) and was told the best they could do is have me send it in for warranty repair. When I explained the issue couldn't be resolved by replacing bad parts with bad parts, the person said I needed to call 217-366-3080. I called that number and got a recording stating they couldn't take my call and to leave a message. Is this normal? I would like to give them the opportunity to make this right before I drag them across the proverbial coals on every online forum and social media outlet I can find.

i called axial there going to send me 2 remote's.
 
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