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Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)

The 225 fits, barely. 54oz/in at 4.8v, 67 at 6v. Used losi mrc servo mounts. Filed slot on bottom of the chassis a hair. No room for the saver but on my losi minis usually a steering link will pop off the ball stud in a bad crash before anything breaks.





I wanted to use the same multi- model tx I use for everything so swapped out the esc/rx combo for a spektrum rx and an old losi brushed esc. Here's pics if anyone is wondering what it looks like with larger servo and separate esc and rx.



 
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if the hitec 255mg fits (32.26 x 16.76 x 31.00), probably the Savox SW0250mg (29.5x14x32.5) will get in just fine.
I'll put it in my "Yeti Jr upgrades list".
 
Just got mine today and as fun as it is I'm going brushless/LiPo sooner than later. I'd like to be able to use the stock radio because I don't really wanna use my 4PX on this.

Any other super cheap radio options or does Axial have stand alone receivers that'll work with this radio?
 
Just got mine today and as fun as it is I'm going brushless/LiPo sooner than later. I'd like to be able to use the stock radio because I don't really wanna use my 4PX on this.

Any other super cheap radio options or does Axial have stand alone receivers that'll work with this radio?

Page 8 of user manual lists accessories for the radio system, two of which being receivers with no ESC built in.

TACL0325 - TR325 3Ch 2.4GHz Receiver Only
TACL0326 - TR326 3Ch 2.4GHz RX Only HV

The second is the High Voltage (lipo) capable one. 6.0V max for the TR325, 8.4V max for the TR326. Should bind up with the stock transmitter. (But I have not tried this myself.)

I've had great luck with my FlySky GT3 system. It was like $35 and with some other mods, it programmable for multiple channels, models, etc.
 
The TR325 is what came in the Bomber RTR. Looks like I found the perfect use for it and I'll be able to add lights or something else later. Guess I'm getting a new ESC now too. At least that'll give me instant reverse as well as choosing whatever servo I want now. It's cool how Axial made provisions for modification the way they did.
 

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Very nice! Where's the 50 foot gap jump videos? :mrgreen::ror:"thumbsup" These are perfect size for a nice race course in the backyard. :)
 
Very nice, Captain! I'm pretty fond of the way the rear sub frame pivots out of the way with those two side screws removed. This looks like the perfect solution for me.
 
Thanks. Yeah, frame is just great! it really separates it from all the 1/18 clone stuff out there and helps justify the price, even if it does include the worst RTR electronics of my bunch. Gotta have those official licenses!

This makes 1/18 number 6 on the shelf, 2 kits and 4 RTRs. I'm lucky to have a 30+ year collection of parts & electronics and two LHS's I can hit up for stuff. Oh that reminds me, they've got some 1/18 aluminum shocks that might be the right size for this. I'll have to check on that. Anyway, folks with no spares or nearby LHS's will probably be a bit more disappointed with the guts of this thing.
 
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Out with the new, in with the newer. :roll: I gotta say, I love how cheap the parts are for this thing compared to my 1.9 and 2.2 trucks. $20 for a "high torque" metal gear Hitec servo, $17 for a new lipo graphene battery. At this rate, it may cost me tens of dollars to upgrade the entire car. :ror:
 

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Got the new servo installed, much better steering. Ran it around the kitchen for about 3 minutes then she stops dead. No steering, no throttle, nothing. Reset power 5 or 6 times in different order, ESC then remote, remote then ESC, nothing. Now I get to call Axial on Monday and tell them they sold me a complete lemon. What a disappointment. I'm replacing everything and taking this servo back for a better one. The stock electronics are garbage.
 
It's fun too. I just ran a whole pack through it without anything going wrong. What do you know about that? It didn't even get too hot after a good 20 minutes of wide open trundling around the yard. I do wish it was a little faster in a straight line. Just a little. It handled the 45 degree slate slopes on my crawler track with ease. Not so much with the rocks but it's a 1:10 track so... yeah.

Couple more tweaks. I trimmed my ESC's battery lead to fit as needed, refilled the shocks and installed the reservoir caps on the front.

I want that battery! I have LiHVs for my Fazon and want a couple for my 1:18s.
 
Got the new servo installed, much better steering. Ran it around the kitchen for about 3 minutes then she stops dead. No steering, no throttle, nothing. Reset power 5 or 6 times in different order, ESC then remote, remote then ESC, nothing. Now I get to call Axial on Monday and tell them they sold me a complete lemon. What a disappointment. I'm replacing everything and taking this servo back for a better one. The stock electronics are garbage.

Hmm. That's two replaced with HS-65MGs followed by an ESC shutdown after a short run. Surely the servo circuit isn't that weak. Still, sucks to hear about yet another one going down. We just want them to drive straight. I don't think that's too much to ask. They did such a great job on the bellcrank system and the rest of the buggy then messed it up with cheap electronics.
 
Exactly. And it's not like we put monster servos in there. The HS-65 couldn't be closer to the stock dimensions and specs except for being much higher quality. I was just hoping to replace the servo and run it as is for at least a couple weeks while I decided on what ESC to go with. The real shame is the people who buy this truck with no intentions of modding or upgrading, and expect it to perform at least ok and be somewhat reliable would be better off spending $70 at WalMart. This truck needs to be KIT ONLY for sure. Axial or Tactic or both just cut too many corners with the electronics. I even had to pay for a battery and charger that I'll never use again.
 
Alright, she's ready for quality functioning electronics.
 

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my esc burnt up and my servo was basically non functional out of box. It wouldn't center from a left turn at all, even lifted off the ground. I love the machine but the electronics are utter garbage.

I felt like my suspension was binding a little in the front so I took the shocks apart and what not to investigate. Shocks were about half full so I dumped and refilled. Then I noticed that the arms still didn't move freely. After taking off the hinge screw, It was apparent that there was still material on the arm from the parts tree that was creating a very tight fit. After a couple passes with my hobby knife my suspension moves way better, miles better even. The arms have a very tight fit to the bulkhead so some of you guys might wanna look into your suspension and clean up some "casting" material.
 
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